Critique my camp knife design

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

Joined
Dec 5, 2013
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This camp knife will be my third design that I try making. It is the largest so far at 1.5" wide and 10" overall length. I'll use 5/32" 440C for this one. The bolsters will be 304L and the scales will be G10. I am open to any relevant comments but I'm specifically wondering if the tip design will be too thin. It will be flat ground. I want it to be a good slicer for cooking but I also want maximum durability for other camp chores.

Bob


CAMP-KNIFE-01 by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Hmmmmmm... it looks good. Although I might take out the finger groove or swedge it looks good. And thatd be after I cut it out and felt it.
 
Nice overall design, but I'd lose the swedge.

To me swedges are nice for showing a makers grinding abilities,but serve no needed purpose in a camp knife.
 
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Nice overall design and I like the finger guard as a safety feature.
One suggestion on a common design weakness of knives: The proper size of the handle.
I have seen good manufacturers like Buck and Gerber release products where the handle
is just too small. They seem to favor one for MEDIUM sized hands, maybe for balance purposes.
The problem is that, unless it fits one's hand properly, the knife won't be effectively used.
No matter what the design, features or materials used, a knife must fit the hand first.
Most men's hands are LARGE. A knife's handle should reflect that in design.
Before manufacturing a knife, it would be better to sample the average size of a man's hand first.
Then, build a better knife using that as a platform.
 
Hope you don't mind. The bolster looked revers for comfort to me... Here is what I would do. Or, possibly a clip point instead of the drop. That is just if you want a swedge and to make it pointer. A camp knife isn't stabby stabby, so not much need for a swedge... I'd maybe go higher with the grind too if it is going to do any thin work. Cheers! Looks great though. I love a good camp knife design...

76abc50b7e50620e2b27be297aebbaac.jpg


-Eric
 
440C would not be my first choice, by a long shot. If you require a stain-resistant steel, consider Elmax or even CPM-154 for better toughness.

mykel m said:
Nice overall design, but I'd lose the swedge. To me swedges are nice for showing a makers grinding abilities,but serve no needed purpose in a camp knife.
Click to expand...

I agree. Swedges are for fighting, and may as well be fully sharpened. They do very little good on a field/camp knife. I do like to crown the spine on such knives just a bit, simply so if the user wants to baton with it, the baton doesn't get chewed up as quickly. Plus it looks cool.

I like Eric's modified drawing much better. Shamus's comments about handle size are spot-on. It's surprising how comfortable a large handle can be in small hands; the reverse is not at all true. When in doubt, go a little longer.
 
Some people actually do prefer a swedge on their camp knife. One use they get is to strike those flint fire starters with it (If they forgo matches that is). A swedge is well suited for it except one thing; it's at the tip of the knife where it can be hard to get the appropriate leverage when holding the knife by the handle. You have to rest the tip near your kindling and angle the knife so the sparks go where you want them.
 
I haven't noticed myself, but read from an experienced bushcrafter that a knife with the cutting edge much lower than the handle levers the blade against your hand. That person prefers a cutting edge nearly in line with the bottom of the handle. Of course this may not apply to a camp knife, but may be worth thinking about if the knife is to be used much for things like carving.
 
mykel m said:
Nice overall design, but I'd lose the swedge.

To me swedges are nice for showing a makers grinding abilities,but serve no needed purpose in a camp knife.
Click to expand...

Here's one similar to yours I designed & had made by John Kiedaisch in 1/8" O1 steel.
I had survival/camp use in mind for it.
I prefer the handle to go all the way into the guard area for comfort,kinda like your design,but bolsterless.
The spine is rounded up to the notches which are squared & strike a fire steel just fine.

DSCN0177_zps276fc56f.jpg
 
I've got a lot of experience using knives in field, survival and combat environments. Not so much designing and making them. I'm trying to apply my lessons learned over the years in each of the knives I design. On this design, the handle is pretty roomy and should accommodate a large hand comfortably. I'm not a fan of knives that can potentially allow the index finger to get scraped by the back of the ricasso area. I like a full bolster or guard for protection. I get that the swedge is not something that appeals to everyone. One advantage of the swedge is a tighter turning radius when drilling or carving with the tip. I kept the swedge short on this design so the user could still use a hand on the spine for additional leverage. I think the point about the raised handle affecting leverage is true. Since I think a good camp knife should be capable in food prep, I decided to compromise on this and give it some finger clearance for that. I appreciate all the feedback and I'm not trying to shoot down all the points that have been made; just saying that I've considered most of them. Still wondering if the tip will be too thin.

Bob
 
I like pointy camp knives, so a swedge is good in my book.
Do I need it for fighting? I hope not! But ever had a big splinter which was to deep to pull out? Then you need something more pointy to dig it out without making too much of a mess. Sure I could just carry some sturdy sharpened needle with me or a scalpel, just in case. But why, if a knife can do it as well and the knife I will take with me for camping all the time. No way I will forget that. Some needle, not so sure.
Happened to us once. My daughter was monkeying around in the woods and got a splinter. It was a big one and I needed to get it out in order to sterilize the wound. Sure could also have gone to the hospital a few hours later (2 hours hike + 1 hour drive) and cancelled the trip and paid some hefty $$ or used some blunt tip knife and nah don't want to think of it.
 
Jens, clip a small SAK to your jacket zipper or whatever you always have on you when camping. Won't replace the Camp Knife, but they really do come in handy for lots of things.

Edit- another option, throw (or make?) an inox Opinel in the tackle box. There's a reason Coghlen repackages them in the states as a "camp knife"
 
It looks fine to me. I wouldn't worry too much about what others think about your design. Make what you like.
 
I have a litte experience using a knife in camping/hunting/survival/combat situations as well. ;) Personally, a camp knife to me means just that. A blade designed to go into a known environment to do the routine tasks of setting up camp. It may batton wood, or even cut up the supper. For that reason I like a broad blade (like you drew) below the finger line (makes chopping on a flat surface easier) with a full HT to the blade (soft spines tend to mushroom when hammered on.) FFG so it will be nice and slicey but thick enough stock to keep from bending during battoning. I also like a weight forward design for a camper...

I carry a hunter that can be pressed to do camp chores if necessary if I plan on dressing anything freshly harvested, or going off trail where I may be out of 'camp' for an extended period. I also carry a stand alone gut hook, a multi-tool, and a folder. (Kershaw Blur.) The multi-tool has a nice little pointy blade and tweezers in the pouch. Removing a splinter with a 5" blade is like swatting a fly with a hammer IMO. ;)

Now for an EDC blade (I consider EDC to be my do-all kinda blade. Not the 'bushcrafter' knives the "nerf world wal-martian urban ninja sheeple" try to multi-function) I try to employ a little taste of all the styles. Recurve blade with a FFG, slightly below the finger line with a pointy tip and swedge. The recurve allows a little leverage for whittling but sits low enough to slice a summer sausage. The point is easily pressed into defensive service, and again, the recurve gives enough belly to skin out a small meal if needed. I also like a neutral balance on an EDC. Of course I live out in the country so my EDC is different from an urban dweller's EDC... And of course I have my old 1911 strapped close...

And if I need a chopper I carry a big chopper... I've seen too many 'Abercrombie Campers' trying to use that ridiculous Tom Brown thing as a camp or hunting knife and a chopper... useless IMO. I like the guy alright, but the blade is a movie knife that does a lot of things, but doesn't do anything well.

I really like your design either with the tweaks or as sits. The handle dssign looks comfortable with little hotspotting, and if it fits your hand its all good.

The reason I drew the bolster opposite is that bolsters that run back at the top run under the hand a bit in a forward grip and leave the web of the hand riding the spine. And for looks.

Cheers!

-Eric
 
Jeremy Barnard said:
It looks fine to me. I wouldn't worry too much about what others think about your design. Make what you like.
Click to expand...

This. I like your design too, which really doesn't matter because you need to like it!

I would not recommend working a sliver out of your finger with a knife like this though, like Jens might. To me that seems a little like using a power hammer on a thumb tack. If you're camping, I might recommend a small first aid kit for sliver work...:)
 
Ohhhhh thats nice!

LucyCustomKnives said:
Hope you don't mind. The bolster looked revers for comfort to me... Here is what I would do. Or, possibly a clip point instead of the drop. That is just if you want a swedge and to make it pointer. A camp knife isn't stabby stabby, so not much need for a swedge... I'd maybe go higher with the grind too if it is going to do any thin work. Cheers! Looks great though. I love a good camp knife design...

76abc50b7e50620e2b27be297aebbaac.jpg


-Eric
Click to expand...

I am not a fan of choils so maybe extend the plunge as close to the bolster as possible? Finer tasks would be easier then. Also, maybe give the edge some more belly? Unless, the leaf shape is what you are going for :)
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
The reason I drew the bolster opposite is that bolsters that run back at the top run under the hand a bit in a forward grip and leave the web of the hand riding the spine. And for looks.

Cheers!

-Eric
Click to expand...

Lots of interesting thoughts there Eric. This specifically, I probably need to investigate further. Thanks.

Bob
 
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