Congratulations on making your first knife. Now it is time to make a better knife.
The trail starts with filling out your profile. We need to know a bit about you to give full answers. Age, location, occupation/student, and hobbies all will get a better answer ... and sometimes an offer from a local maker to help you out.
The knife is what we call a KSO - Knife Shaped Object. It is a start, but needs a little work. Basically, you took a rasp, made a knife shape from it, and ground an edge on the shape. I'll bet you learned a lot about why that doesn't work so well
The places to work on are:
1) Shape - the basic shape is OK, but needs to be refined to remove all the dips and wiggles. Look at some simple hunting style finished knives and you will see that the spine is basically a smooth curve from butt to tip. The edge should flow from tip to heel with no dip at the heel like your blade. Draw a sketch of your planned blade and cut out a cardboard template. See how it feels in your hand. Make adjustments and new templates until you get what you like. Try to stay in the range of the simple knives you looked at as far as shape, as the more "extra" features you add, the more places can go wrong.
2) Steel It sounds like you were working on a pretty hard piece of steel. You need to anneal it or work from new, known quality steel. Using new steel will greatly aid you in learning knifemaking. Aldo carries 1084, which is a great steel for new makers because it is cheap, easy to work, and has a very simple HT.
http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/
3)Tools - You are using the basic starter tools, but getting some good new files, a stack of wet-or-dry sandpaper, and if possible a small belt grinder/sander, wil,help you.
4) Guidance - I know you-Tube is filled with "info" but not all of it is good, or will, work for a new maker. The stickies has info to get started, and info on making file knives. I suggest you read all the stickies.
5) Refinement of the blade - The bevel should go at least half the way up the blade. I prefer a full flat grind, but on a rasp knife, leaving some of the texture toward the top is nice. The bevel needs to be smooth, even, and flat. It needs to be filed/ground to basic shape, the sanded smoother and flatter. The final edge is added after HT.
6) The handle - The paracord handle looks OK. To make it sit flush with the blade, only grind the cord recess a tad less than the cord thickness. This will make things flush when the cord is pulled tight. Do some testing as you shape the handle and start with a flush surface. Slowly lower the cord recess until a cord pulled tight is flush. That is where you quit. Once the knife is done and there will be no more untying of the handle, it can be made strong and permanent by epoxying it. You mix some one hour ( not 5 minute) epoxy and paint a very small amount over the cord. A disposable flux brush is the perfect tool for this ( bag of them for a buck at HF). You are just wanting to moisten the cord. The epoxy should soak right in and disappear. When the handle just barely looks moist, take an old T-shirt and squeeze the knife with it. It will soak up any excess resin. Check that there are no drips as it sets up over the next10 minutes, and let dry overnight. The handle will look exactly as it did before the resin was added, but be rock solid and won't shift and unravel.
7) Heat Treatment - You said nothing about HT, and from your description, did no annealing or other prep. Steel can not be efficiently worked into a knife while hardened. The stickys has lots of info on annealing and heat treatment. Buying new steel from a knife steel supplier will get you steel ready to go with no annealing needed. The HT can be done at home with some basic equipment, or sent out to a professional or more experienced person.
