Critique My First - Wharnecliffe

C

cigardoghd

Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
72
This is the first knife I've seen through to completion. The paracord is temporary, something comfy while I tested edge retention (which I was very happy with). The new owner will be adding their own scales.

1095 heat treat by Darrin Sanders (excellent service)
.180" thick at spine
Random pattern acid finish
20° secondary bevels

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I think the knife would actually look very nice and perform well with just a straight and even non-gutted paracord wrap, sealed with west system epoxy. If the customer is going to finish the handle, then that's up to him I guess.

What are you sharpening with? Lansky? Looks like it may have got away from you and dug some scratches near the first quarter of the blade?

I would need to see the spine, but the grind looks a tad too high and maybe you ground into the spine a bit.

I would have added a thong hole near the pommel. Kinda breaks up that empty space, and a thong tube/lanyard is useful.

The notch near the ricasso isn't really my thing, but I can see how it aids in sharpening, and I can see how people would dig it. Just a preference thing. Might be a stress riser there.

The corner on the pommel at the top looks a bit sharp to me. Personally, I'd round just the top part over. Again, preference.

Makers mark looks really cool!

I use mustard and various acid finishes myself and I have a love and hate relationship with them. I believe this knife could have done without it.

Overall, I think the knife is a really pleasing shape, It flows really well, and it looks awesome as your first. A few issues with final blade finish, the stress riser and some handle hotspots, (alot is preference) but overall it is an elegant knife. Love the wharnies!
 
Josh, appreciate the feedback. I did use a lansky to establish the secondary bevel, but finished with a fine stone, which is where I believe it got away from me. I didn't notice the scratches until I posted the photo. Will try to get them out with 320 paper. They don't seem very deep.

I used a file jig to establish the bevels, and did manage to get into the spine a bit. I'll need to keep that in mind going forward.

The notch at ricasso helped me to establish my plunge lines, which I used a 1/4" chainsaw file to do. I had been struggling with plunges and this technique really got them even.

I was really on the fence about the acid too. I would have elected for a hand rubbed satin finish. I took this to 400 grit prior to FC etch and thought it looked good. But this is what my friend wanted, so i decided to give it a try. I think all in all it turned out ok.

Thanks for props on the mark. Big shout out to to Ernie Grospitch at Blue Lightning Stencil (A+ service).

Again thanks for the feedback. Love your Japanese Wharnecliffe.
 
Definitely a funky, good looking blade. I think it's more a sheepsfoot than a wharncliffe with the spine being parallel to the edge for a good portion of its length, but who cares?

Interesting that the knife is being handled by the buyer. Do you normally sell this way, or was it a request?

I'm a big fan of the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe profile, I think, because it offers so much utility in the setting that I'm most likely to need a knife, which is for mundane things, opening/breaking down boxes, opening mail, cutting up hotdogs for the kids, etc. I think it's no coincidence that the "utility" knife with disposable, snap-off blades is very similar.

I'm sure your client will get a lot of use from the knife.

Good job.
 
Looks good Bryan. Like Josh said, most of the small details come down to personal preference. I've always found that no matter what you make, there will be people who like it and people who don't. As long as you and your customer are happy then you're good to go.
The one question I have is about the height of the grind. In one pic it appears as if you "busted" the shoulder, or ground into the spine. If you did it'll still make a good knife but thats something to work on. If you didn't then you're fine.
I see a lot of blades from new makers and taking the blade too close to finished dimensions before H/T is one of the faults I see the most. It took me a while to stop doing that myself. You can always remove a little more steel but you can't put it back.
But all in all you did a fine job, now go make some more.:D
 
Strigamort said:
Definitely a funky, good looking blade. I think it's more a sheepsfoot than a wharncliffe with the spine being parallel to the edge for a good portion of its length, but who cares?

Interesting that the knife is being handled by the buyer. Do you normally sell this way, or was it a request?

I'm a big fan of the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe profile, I think, because it offers so much utility in the setting that I'm most likely to need a knife, which is for mundane things, opening/breaking down boxes, opening mail, cutting up hotdogs for the kids, etc. I think it's no coincidence that the "utility" knife with disposable, snap-off blades is very similar.

I'm sure your client will get a lot of use from the knife.

Good job.
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Strig, I think you're right the design could well be considered more of a sheepsfoot. This was made for a friend who wanted to try his hand at making his own handle/scales. I think if I were to sell it, I would much prefer to do the handle myself.
 
darrin sanders said:
Looks good Bryan. Like Josh said, most of the small details come down to personal preference. I've always found that no matter what you make, there will be people who like it and people who don't. As long as you and your customer are happy then you're good to go.
The one question I have is about the height of the grind. In one pic it appears as if you "busted" the shoulder, or ground into the spine. If you did it'll still make a good knife but thats something to work on. If you didn't then you're fine.
I see a lot of blades from new makers and taking the blade too close to finished dimensions before H/T is one of the faults I see the most. It took me a while to stop doing that myself. You can always remove a little more steel but you can't put it back.
But all in all you did a fine job, now go make some more.:D
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Darrin, thanks for the encouragement. I did get into the spine a bit. Not much, but it's there. Definitely something to stay more focused on next time.
 
I hear that. Doing the handles and glue up has been my favorite part, but I have a lot to learn about it.

Incidentally, on my first ffg, I ground into the spine. A bit more severe on mine by the looks of it. The knife is still waiting as I haven't figured out how to fix it.

I bet your buddy will be very happy with your design. :thumbup:
 
Everyone grinds into the spine! Thats just part of it man. Probably one of the first big obstacles and biggest pains for knifemakers who do the full flat. I still do it all the damn time.

This one on yours is mild, and I really couldn't tell on first glance. My first attempt at knifemaking was a big camp/kephart styled knife in ATS-34. On the left hand side, the grind is so far into the spine, it's literally halfway into the thickness of the blade.

Mild instances like yours can be fixed pretty easily with a quick vertical trip to the platen, or on a disc sander.

I still think this is a fantastic knife, don't get me wrong or anything.
 
Josh Mason said:
Everyone grinds into the spine! Thats just part of it man. Probably one of the first big obstacles and biggest pains for knifemakers who do the full flat. I still do it all the damn time.

This one on yours is mild, and I really couldn't tell on first glance. My first attempt at knifemaking was a big camp/kephart styled knife in ATS-34. On the left hand side, the grind is so far into the spine, it's literally halfway into the thickness of the blade.

Mild instances like yours can be fixed pretty easily with a quick vertical trip to the platen, or on a disc sander.

I still think this is a fantastic knife, don't get me wrong or anything.
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Josh, funny you mention that. I got all geared up last night and took it to the disc sander. And then, I decided instead of screwing up the finish I'd take it to work and check it with the height gauge first to see how far into the spine I am. It's only about .015 deep. So, after much debate I decided to let it slide and will try to take better care next time. Maybe I'll try to high flat grind next time. One of my issues is I'm still working with a HF 1x30 and getting a uniform bevel is a beast, for me at least.
 
Ive never broke the spine with a grind. :)

I would suggest stopping about an 1/8" below the spine pre HT and then sneak up on it post. Hard steel+slower grinding=satisfactory results.

If your platen is pretty flat or have access to a surface grinder take equal amounts from both sides of the knife; you have a lightly slimmer knife but can recover from breaking through the spine.

David.
 
I would suggest against trying to correct any spine grindage on that HF 1x30. It's too small and the stock platen is never flat.
If you don't have a good true flat surface go down to the hardware store and buy a ceramic tile, usually less than $1. Just make sure you get a flat smooth surfaced one like for a bathroom wall, not the textured kind for floors. Lay your sandpaper on that to sand flat.
 
FullyTorque said:
I would suggest against trying to correct any spine grindage on that HF 1x30. It's too small and the stock platen is never flat.
If you don't have a good true flat surface go down to the hardware store and buy a ceramic tile, usually less than $1. Just make sure you get a flat smooth surfaced one like for a bathroom wall, not the textured kind for floors. Lay your sandpaper on that to sand flat.
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Good advice. I've got a granite surface plate at work. So, I think I'll try that before I send this bad boy out. And yeah. the stock platen on the 1x30 was terrible. I made a new platen that works somewhat better out of some 1/4" thick angle that had 4" legs.
 
I'm not absolutely sure but I think USA knifemaker sells 1" x 4" glass platens. If you can find one just JB weld it to your steel platen and you'll have a good true surface to grind on. Just be sure its perfectly vertical (90 degrees to the tool rest).
 
You're correct Darrin. I was a little surprised to see the glass platen for our crappy tiny grinders. Maybe the 1x30 is taking over!

Or maybe not...
 
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