Critique my pending stone purchase

Compare the grit to microns. The Fine is 30 micron , the 400 grit chosera is 25 micron. Hardly any overlap. Again I find it works very well to help remove the diamond scratch pattern , many people don't realize how differently different abrasives sharpen compared to other abrasives of the same or equal grit.

And again it is only my opinion based on my experience.
 
I use DMT, chosera, Arashiyama, Nubatama, Naniwa SS plus Naniwa Aoto and Omura, ohishi, king, and will probably add a few shaptons in the future. I have a pretty good understanding of the grits and how they interact with one another. Sharpening is my job so I get to experiment daily with what works and what does not. Can't always go by what's on paper ;)
 
Sorry, I thought I made myself clear enough at the beginning, I want to start cheap and learn the fundamentals of free hand sharpening. I want to eventually learn how to make scary sharp edges with a nice polish to them. Learning and error should be fine with what I ordered. After getting consistency with my bevel I will fine tune my skill set.

If none if this makes any sense, im drunk right now. Sorry
 
McFlurrey06 said:
Sorry, I thought I made myself clear enough at the beginning, I want to start cheap and learn the fundamentals of free hand sharpening. I want to eventually learn how to make scary sharp edges with a nice polish to them. Learning and error should be fine with what I ordered. After getting consistency with my bevel I will fine tune my skill set.

If none if this makes any sense, im drunk right now. Sorry
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Makes sense. You'll go far with what you have planned. Going forward I highly recommend not switching grinding media as you go through a progression. Lots of folks finish with ceramic, bit I would avoid bouncing around between your coarse, medium and fine - build a set that's all diamond, all waterstone, all silicon carbide sandpaper etc. Its not necessary but it does seem to make the work go faster and more predictably.
 
McFlurrey06 said:
So the DMt Dia-Sharp coarse, fine, and extra fine? Then the spyderco UF?? I kind of thought I would need the medium step as well.

I have not seen the 306UF in person, but I have looked at them online.
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DMT sells double sided diamond stones. You can get xc,c,f,xf on 2 stones and save yourself some money as well. For the 2 double sided stones its about $90 total on amazon.
 
Good choice on the Norton. I've used mine on every knife I have including S30V (took a little more patience, but it worked). It is a stone that will serve you well for many years.

Ric
 
You dont need to spend hundreds of $'s on a few Chosera stones if you're a beginner!
Develop the touch and then invest in what responds well to your technique because everyone is different.
I learned on DMTs double sided folding stones and they were perfect for me because you can get EC/C and F/XF for around 50 bucks. Diamonds cut fast if necessary, they can create very fine edges, and they last forever.
Pick up a M/F Spyderco ceramic pocket stone and a strop and you're in business for around $100!
You could drop a load of cash on water stones and realize you hate the mess and maintenence required, which is exactly what turned me off of them.
Buy cheap and figure out what fits you best.
 
After I learn how to do this with repeatable results I will probably start going with a nice set of diamonds or other no/low mess stones and finishing with a ceramic. This should be fun.
 
McFlurrey06 said:
Sorry, I thought I made myself clear enough at the beginning, I want to start cheap and learn the fundamentals of free hand sharpening. I want to eventually learn how to make scary sharp edges with a nice polish to them. Learning and error should be fine with what I ordered. After getting consistency with my bevel I will fine tune my skill set.

If none if this makes any sense, im drunk right now. Sorry
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Read all the stuff in this forum about sharpening. Eventually. Postpone your next case of beer or quart of good suff. Buy the 2-sided Norton and a Steelex Sharpening Stone Holder. I woulda killed for the holder 40-odd years ago when I started hand-sharpening. Gets your knuckles off the table-top, making it easier to persevere in acquiring that necessary muscle-memory. Then, just do the seemingly endless repititions(which will, if you enjoy sharpening, become very relaxing and will induce heretofore unknown levels of serenity-especially if your wife can't stand that "scraping sound.") Oh, muscle-memory requires memory and you'll wanna be mostly sober BEFORE your knife gets sharp, anyway. I'm Irish and know whereof I speak...
 
knifenut1013 said:
This has as much overlap as the OP's stone progression, plus DMT doesn't have a medium stone. In the choseras you can go from the DMT XXC straight to the 400 without issue and the 3k in your above progression would be a excessive step. Truthfully going to 5k or 10k with the chosera stones is kinda pointless, even chosera recommends stopping at 3k.

McFlurrey06,

The Norton stone is a good choice for a starting out though a bit coarse to sharpen a mora IMO. I would recommend a small set of waterstones in the future as your skill progresses, the Arashiyama stones would be a good set to look at.

In the mean time here is a video to help you along

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VPCvd5hUVQ&feature=c4-overview&list=UUfsHYm19KjjnUlpG8WVMZOA
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Thank You for the video link. It was exactly the type of video I was looking for on this stone.
 
Sadden said:
Compare the grit to microns. The Fine is 30 micron , the 400 grit chosera is 25 micron. Hardly any overlap. Again I find it works very well to help remove the diamond scratch pattern , many people don't realize how differently different abrasives sharpen compared to other abrasives of the same or equal grit.

And again it is only my opinion based on my experience.
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This is the perfect answer from someone who reads and talks more than he has actual experience, comparing diamond and waterstones micron wise is meaningless, and my 400beston makes short work of a dmt xxc scratch pattern, and its no chocera .... Unless you are talking about ultra high wear steels ... But still it worked for me on my s30v harner parer

I wonder how real experience can make for so strange results ...
 
McFlurrey06 said:
Hello all, I have decided to learn how to freehand sharpen on stones, and have come up with a set of stones that I feel will start me off well, and be fitting for when I actually learn how to do it well.

DMT Dia-sharp coarse
Spyderco 302M (medium)
Spyderco 302F (Fine)
DMT Dia-sharp extra fine
Spyderco 302UF (Ultra Fine)
KnifePlus Strop Block

I have them listed in the order I precieve them being used. My goal is to first learn how to set my bevel and stay consistent, work up a burr and apex the edge, and finally end up with a mirror or near mirror polish, with a workable edge.

If you have any suggestions on other stones or products please let me know.
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Just starting out go with a couple of the Norton stones and use those until you get your technique down. Add an Idahone steeling rod for another thirty bucks or so and move forward with other media as your more comfortable. So for under eighty bucks you can get started. For the money the Knifeplus strop seems a good buy and folks like it. I have no personal experience with it. Slow and steady wins the race. Keep it simple. Polished edges are all fine and good but work up to that. Its all about technique. Diamonds are a whole other can of worms that you can open later on. Just my two pennies.
 
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