Critique my work!!

[rodriguez7]

 

[rodriguez7]

The blade was tested this past weekend, it got some scratches, blade length is about 6 1/2 inches, convex grind, .20 thick, terotuf handles with blue g10 liners, flare tubes, epoxied with gflex. Kydex done by me, with a belt loop!

 

[Richard338]

Nice. You don't mention the steel type or heat treat and the photo doesn't show the tip.
Unless you plan to sell it, then the most important thing is whether you are happy with it.
Cosmetically there are a few things you could think about next time for fit and finish:
1) the middle flare tube doesn't come through
2) the front of the handle material is flat and might look better rounded or some other shape
3) between the first finger groove and the choil, your handle material rounds off, but the steel doesn't
Most of my points are just opinion.

 

[rodriguez7]

Nice. You don't mention the steel type or heat treat and the photo doesn't show the tip.
Unless you plan to sell it, then the most important thing is whether you are happy with it.
Cosmetically there are a few things you could think about next time for fit and finish:
1) the middle flare tube doesn't come through
2) the front of the handle material is flat and might look better rounded or some other shape
3) between the first finger groove and the choil, your handle material rounds off, but the steel doesn't
Most of my points are just opinion.

The scales were smaller, I’m gonna order full sheets of terotuf from now on, the flare tube was a slight mistake. I like the finger guard like that, just didn’t have enough scale material. The steel is A2, heat treated in my evenheat, aust.@ 1775 for 30 minutes, plate quenched, dry ice bath with a triple temper. The fit and finish is what I struggle most with! But I’m trying to take my time a little more!! Heat treat is where I really take my time. But this is what I’m looking for! I appreciate the reply.

 

[rodriguez7]

I’ve been making blades for a few months now! So not to long really!

 

[HSC ///]

why such a thick blade?

 

[rodriguez7]

why such a thick blade?

The design of this blade is a wilderness hunter! I usually pack in on horses, or on foot, miles into the backcountry! I designed this so I could just take one blade to do everything I need, mild chopping, batonning, skinning, and general camp chores. It has a choil for choking up while skinning or quartering big game, and a hawk bill on the handle for mild chopping! Just my interpretation of my ideal outdoor blade. I started making knives because I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted, there was always something missing. I have the same style knife done in 8670, differentially heat treated, in different thicknesses too. Some thinner, some thicker.
Of course the thicker ones chop better, the thinner ones cut a little better, but in reality, a thick blade with a good grind skins and quarters perfectly fine. It seems people usually want a thin blade for kitchen duty! Which I’ve done, 15n20 .120 thick, or thinner. This is just my opinion, it’s still being tested every chance I get.

 

[Drew Riley]

I like the blade shape for the most part. I might work on making the lines of the handle "flow" a little better. The "cross section" of the handle looks sufficiently rounded to be comfortable, but I might draw out the area where my 2nd and 3rd fingers would rest to be a little more gradual, if that makes sense. Seems just a bit "humpy" as is. I'd also pay attention to the top corners of the handle scales, as they could potentially be a hot spot depending on how you hold and use the knife.

The middle tube has already been mentioned, as has the "guard" area, sticking outside the scale. I'd probably just grind that part flush, but that's a personal preference.
Lastly, I'd just continue to work on general fit and finish, keeping grind lines crisp and even, etc...

Other than that, it's not a bad looking piece. Use it hard, and you'll likely see a couple things to improve. The rest will come with time and experience. Looking forward to seeing your next piece.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Some things that catch my eye:
The rivet tube isn't through on one or two of them
The scales front
The drop at the guard
The choil is in front of the plunge, and not bisected by the plunge.
Too many bumps and curves in the hande
The handle looks unfinished

 

[rodriguez7]

Some things that catch my eye:
The rivet tube isn't through on one or two of them
The scales front
The drop at the guard
The choil is in front of the plunge, and not bisected by the plunge.
Too many bumps and curves in the hande
The handle looks unfinished

So you would work the plunge into the choil? And what do you mean by unfinished on the handle? As in not buffed, or? Still learning, that’s why I posted this here. Thanks guys. I fixed the guard yesterday. And I’ll probably drill out the tube, if I can avoid messing it up. And what would you do differently on the front scales? Taper them down?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I like the semicircular choil to be centered at the bottom of the plunge line. The choil should not be filed until the blade is done and ready for HT. I add it post-HT with a diamond cylinder burr.

In the photos the micarta looks frayed like it needs more samding at a finer grit.

The front of the scales would look and feel better if rounded and smooth. Here is g how to get perfect scales:
Drill the tang holes through the scales, leaving some extra length on the front end. Place the two scales together, stick rivet stock through the holes, and tape together snug. Sand and shape one end to make the front. Take to the finish grit and buff if doing that. Then take apart and assemble on the knife when the blade is completely done except sharpening.

THe handle has dips in the top and a big belly bump. Those won't make it feel better, and may make it "hot in the hand".

I agree with HSC that the blade looks very thick. A general use hunter/skinner doesn't need more than .125" at the spine. It also looks like there is no distal taper to the blade.

 

[rodriguez7]

I like the semicircular choil to be centered at the bottom of the plunge line. The choil should not be filed until the blade is done and ready for HT. I add it post-HT with a diamond cylinder burr.

In the photos the micarta looks frayed like it needs more samding at a finer grit.

The front of the scales would look and feel better if rounded and smooth. Here is g how to get perfect scales:
Drill the tang holes through the scales, leaving some extra length on the front end. Place the two scales together, stick rivet stock through the holes, and tape together snug. Sand and shape one end to make the front. Take to the finish grit and buff if doing that. Then take apart and assemble on the knife when the blade is completely done except sharpening.

THe handle has dips in the top and a big belly bump. Those won't make it feel better, and may make it "hot in the hand".

I agree with HSC that the blade looks very thick. A general use hunter/skinner doesn't need more than .125" at the spine. It also looks like there is no distal taper to the blade.

Understandable! The material is terotuf, unbuffed. I’ll try that on the plunge line on my next knife! As far as the blade thickness, that’s just a preference. I like the extra mass for chopping! I did grind down the belly just a little. Thanks Stacy.