Critque my Knife Hanlde Design

I.N.F.K

I.N.F.K

Joined
Jul 7, 2012
Messages
1,896
I've been working on this knife for a while now, and I've finally got to handle. The purpose of this knife is nothing more than to exist as an overbuilt knife. My dilemma I have is the handle, it just doesn't offer a good grip. I tried adding, I guess a hand stop in the back, but it doesn't look good to me. Now I'm thinking about adding finger choils, and either G-10 or Micarta, but I'd rather stick to wood to match my tomahawk. So I ask you to take a look at the current design drawn onto the handle, I hope you can see the ink.

WP_001299_zps7d001db1.jpg
 
Here you go, sorry about the pic. I did have better ones that showed more detail, but I had it wrapped in cord then.

WP_001302_zps79d3767d.jpg
 
Take a piece of wood that is the thickness your final handle will be, cut out the handle design, round it like you would on the final, and see how it feels. Adjust accordingly. Personally, I would go with one comfortable finger groove at the front and forget the rest. I don't like finger grooves in general (I tend to hold knives in a variety of grips depending on the task at hand), but I find the one finger grove up front is comfortable if done correctly, helps lock the hand in place, and works with different grips.
 
A "Bird's Head", or at least some drop at the butt aids in keeping a good and comfortable grip. A simple "Palm Swell" in the middle ( a slightly fatter area in the bottom center) will often make the grip more secure and comfortable. Avoid sharp projections and points. Finger grooves should be well rounded...if used at all.

Part of your problem is the blade is limited in size and shape by being already cut out. It would have been better if it was curved a bit along the spine, and the butt was dropped a bit.
In the future, do all the design and changes on paper before cutting the steel.
 
Last edited:
bladsmth said:
A "Bird's Head", or at least some drop at the butt aids in keeping a good and comfortable grip. A simple "Palm Swell" in the middle ( a slightly fatter area in the bottom center) will often make the grip more secure and comfortable. Avoid sharp projections and points. Finger grooves should be well rounded...if used at all.
Click to expand...

If I was to do a palm swell, would I cut it out of the tang; or should I do what Storm Crow recommended?
 
I have made handles that were 1/2 tang, with the top like a full tang, and the bottom all wood. I have done this to make scraps useable, rather than junking them. Might be an idea for you. If you aren't comfortable with the precision needed to do it in one piece, you can use metal or wood the same thickness as the tang, and glue it up as a three piece handle.
 
I.N.F.K said:
If I was to do a palm swell, would I cut it out of the tang; or should I do what Storm Crow recommended?
Click to expand...

If you want the finger choil, keep it, but move it up to the front of the handle. The palm swell is still a good idea with the finger choil.
 
bladsmth said:
If you want the finger choil, keep it, but move it up to the front of the handle. The palm swell is still a good idea with the finger choil.
Click to expand...

I might just go with either the palm swell or the choil. I guess with the pam swell, the trick is not too make the swell to big, otherwise I've ruined the knife. I assume to make the swell gradually bigger as I fit it too my hand. That about right?
 
I failed to mention this but the second picture I posted the flash is hiding the index finger choil. So only the middle finger choil is visible, which I have no intent on doing now, just the index finger.
 
The best thing you can do is make several mock-up of the whole knife out of cheap soft wood, of the thickness you want the finished handles to be, and try several diferent handle designs until you find what feels best to you. There is no way to predict that by visualizing in advance, it's a matter of feel. save yourself the misery of guessing and making the wrong choice by spending an hour or two making mock-ups. I think it's helpful to include the blade in the mock-up instead of just the handle so you can get a sense of what handle shapes interact best with the particular blade shape.
 
Last edited:
fishface5 said:
The best thing you can do is make several mock-up of the whole knife out of cheap soft wood, of the thickness you want the finished handles to be, and try several diferent handle designs until you find what feels best to you. There is no way to predict that by visualizing in advance, it's a matter of feel. save yourself the misery of guessing and making the wrong choice by spending an hour or two making mock-ups. I think it's helpful to include the blade in the mock-up instead of just the handle so you can get a sense of what handle shapes interact best with the particular blade shape.
Click to expand...

that's not a bad idea, but will definently make it a lenghty process. Still, this is really the only knife I want to come out great.
 
Alright, I took fishface5 advice and made a couple of wood blanks, and after three tries I finally have a design that works. Finger choil by itself didn't work and it didn't work with a palm swell. So the choil is a "no go for launch"

Here is a side by side comparison...
WP_001306_zps97838d5e.jpg

And a top view
WP_001307_zpsba623e0b.jpg

I'm still thinking the swell might be a big too big. However, I can always remove more material, but I can't put it back.
 
I.N.F.K said:
Wasn't planning on it. It's hair shaving sharp, cuts paper fine, and is good around the kitchen.
Click to expand...

I'm curious what made you choose a grind that only comes up 1/4 of the blade width.?

I see that style more and more and I'm wondering where it's coming from.
Is it in a video game somewhere or what ?

The traditional Scandi pattern knives have MUCH thinner blades than those I see being made now.


I propose that if you were to full flat grind, it would perform even better.
 
Last edited:
12345678910 said:
I'm curious what made you choose a grind that only comes up 1/4 of the blade width.?

I see that style more and more and I'm wondering where it's coming from.
Is it in a video game somewhere or what ?

The traditional Scandi pattern knives have MUCH thinner blades than those I see being made now.


I propose that if you were to full flat grind, it would perform even better.
Click to expand...

Personally, if it wasn't already heat treated when I started on the knife I would've made it a flat ground knife. This started out as an old Condor Golok that bent at the handle, so the steel was already heat treated. Which is why it took me an industrial drill press and three carbide bits to drill my pin holes.

I believe that this method is the fastest method known and also the easiest, which is why it is probably so popular. I actually just compared it with the my Marttiini scandi ground knife. My knife is almost twice the thickness as the Marttiini, but I made up for it because my grind is almost twice as long.
 
Instead of making the swell smaller, I'm going to make the finger choil's smaller
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top