CRK Fit and Finish

Maprik said:
I just read on another knife forum how to fix an uncentered blade. The process is moving the handles back and forth in relation to each other to cause a shift in the pivot angle. This moves the blade tip significantly. Now this is from a very popular knife manufacturer who has a couple of models that are VERY popular among BF members. You can move the handles around in relation to each other to affect the pivot angle! Some might view this as a good thing, you know, being able to tweak things to get it right. But this is why I love CRK - no movement- no adjusting - just consistency every time.
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I hate to rain on your parade, but this "trick" works on Sebenza's for modifying the lock-up. If you wish, I will find you a video link, or CTS can do it :)
 
JustinFournier said:
I hate to rain on your parade, but this "trick" works on Sebenza's for modifying the lock-up. If you wish, I will find you a video link, or CTS can do it :)
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Thanks, I'd like to see the video. It's really hard to imagine that the handles can shift in relation to each other given how tightly the screw nuts fit into the handles holes. Same goes for the pivot! I've never had to adjust a thing on my Sebenza. I just slap it together and it's perfect every time.
 
Sure maprik, give me a minute.

I really love what your DIY stuff is coming out to be, and appreciate your contributions here. I will gladly set this up for you!
 
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JustinFournier said:
I hate to rain on your parade, but this "trick" works on Sebenza's for modifying the lock-up. If you wish, I will find you a video link, or CTS can do it :)
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He said you cant adjust centering by shifting the handles. Its not hard to adjust lockup on Sebenza because the difference between 30% and 80% lockup is literally a microscopic amount of material on the lockbar according to CRK.
 
Thanks Justin. Very informative and I would not have believed it had I not seen it!
 
kawr said:
He said you cant adjust centering by shifting the handles. Its not hard to adjust lockup on Sebenza because the difference between 30% and 80% lockup is literally a microscopic amount of material on the lockbar according to CRK.
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Perhaps I misunderstood, the point I was trying to make, was that the scales clearly do not fit into one one specific position, there is a range of positions available, though the blade is always centered as you said, you can affect change in the lockup, maybe more.
 
There must be just the slightest amount of movement by actually bending the screw and nut interface. This could result in a change in micrometers that would affect the lock. I would assume there would be stress on the screw though which is not good. Why do it if a 70% lockup is no different than a 40% lockup and will probably never change?
 
Im guessing that most of the perceived lockup changes from disassembly are from tiny differences in where the stop pin bushing is. One good flick open (as recommended) and all of mine go right back to where they were prior to messing with them.


So very many of the questions on this forum could be answered if people watched "The Exquisite Blade" and paid attention.
 
Tripton said:
Im guessing that most of the perceived lockup changes from disassembly are from tiny differences in where the stop pin bushing is. One good flick open (as recommended) and all of mine go right back to where they were prior to messing with them.


So very many of the questions on this forum could be answered if people watched "The Exquisite Blade" and paid attention.
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You send me a copy please?
 
Trying to get this one closed too? For some reason when a CR thread goes off topic it gets closed real quick.
 
Seems on topic to me, logical connect between each post, still pertaining to fit & finish, as it is apparently discussed in the dvd as mentioned by Tripton.

So what does it say in there about fit and finish for those of us without it?
 
More for the earlier posts, it got back on track, but CR threads get shut down every day it seems. Anyway, I will stop derailing it now.
 
I've seen it. The lockup trick doesn't have anything to do with the stop pin. As a matter of fact after doing the lockup trick I loosen the screws just a tad and flick the blade out to seat everything. I've done that trick to about 6 of my own sebs now. None of them have changed a bit, including my large that I crash every day. I must have opened that thing thousands of times now! :)


Tripton said:
Im guessing that most of the perceived lockup changes from disassembly are from tiny differences in where the stop pin bushing is. One good flick open (as recommended) and all of mine go right back to where they were prior to messing with them.


So very many of the questions on this forum could be answered if people watched "The Exquisite Blade" and paid attention.
Click to expand...
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Well, CRK "carburizes" (NOT carbidizing!) their lock face, which in fact does improve lock longevtiy to a useful degree.

People have shown 16 year old Sebs with zero wear on the lock face, depsite being opened and used heavily for those 16 years. I'd say that is irrefutible evidence that the thin hardened layer is more than effective at mitigating wear. :)
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Good point Mr. Davis.
 
Tripton said:
Im guessing that most of the perceived lockup changes from disassembly are from tiny differences in where the stop pin bushing is. One good flick open (as recommended) and all of mine go right back to where they were prior to messing with them.


So very many of the questions on this forum could be answered if people watched "The Exquisite Blade" and paid attention.
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+1 Sir. :thumbup:

I do hope that CRK might bring back an updated version of those fine DVD's oneday.

I am partially at fault for that however....... If folks like me would cease needing "just one more" CRK the folks up in Boise could catch up the backlog and perhaps have a bit more time for DVD's and such. :D
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
I've seen it. The lockup trick doesn't have anything to do with the stop pin. As a matter of fact after doing the lockup trick I loosen the screws just a tad and flick the blade out to seat everything. I've done that trick to about 6 of my own sebs now. None of them have changed a bit, including my large that I crash every day. I must have opened that thing thousands of times now! :)
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I didn't say that it did. I'm saying that I have seen the lockup become quite early after a cleaning, and doesn't settle into it's previous spot until after a firm flick.

The "lockup trick" does nothing more than put the knife's hardware into a slight bind. I really do not see how the parts wouldn't eventually settle down into where everything would be under a normal assembly, through general use.


A better question might be, "why?" If the knife doesnt have any play, the blade is centered, and it is within manufacturer spec, a slightly less deep lockup would, at best, be only an aesthetic improvement. (And, only to those who care about such things.
 
Tripton said:
I didn't say that it did. I'm saying that I have seen the lockup become quite early after a cleaning, and doesn't settle into it's previous spot until after a firm flick.

The "lockup trick" does nothing more than put the knife's hardware into a slight bind. I really do not see how the parts wouldn't eventually settle down into where everything would be under a normal assembly, through general use.


A better question might be, "why?" If the knife doesnt have any play, the blade is centered, and it is within manufacturer spec, a slightly less deep lockup would, at best, be only an aesthetic improvement. (And, only to those who care about such things.
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I completely agree with your entire post. :D
 
The main reason I do it is because it completely takes away he stickiness. I've owned over 10 sebs so far, and almost every single one of them has been sticky. Doing the lockup trick has fixed around 75% of those. Opens smooth as glass after that, all the while not having any play. Worth it for me! :)

Tripton said:
I didn't say that it did. I'm saying that I have seen the lockup become quite early after a cleaning, and doesn't settle into it's previous spot until after a firm flick.

The "lockup trick" does nothing more than put the knife's hardware into a slight bind. I really do not see how the parts wouldn't eventually settle down into where everything would be under a normal assembly, through general use.


A better question might be, "why?" If the knife doesnt have any play, the blade is centered, and it is within manufacturer spec, a slightly less deep lockup would, at best, be only an aesthetic improvement. (And, only to those who care about such things.
Click to expand...
 
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