Crosscut Saw Thread

phantomknives said:
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Nice. What are the dimensions of the plate? I am curious about it having four screws for the handle. I could not find out, but I wonder if they put four screws on the big boys?

The one I have has three. Mine is 21 x 3 1/2:


phantomknives said:
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I'm also curious about the etch.


1925 catalog from the Rose tools site



http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/backsawpage.html


Bob
 
I have an older Stanley 26x5. Made by Disston? I don’t know but it’s a three screw. I own a couple of those old miter saws and find uses for them. The bigger one is restricted to the box. They are pretty sweet in a nice old box.
 
phantomknives said:
anyone still make old style boxes for these saws?
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Maybe. I suspect that they would be hard pressed to match the quality of the older boxes and if they did they would not be cheap. The older boxes are readily available from Craigslist, yard sales, flea markets etc. I think if you look for one you will find one. They are not rare or expensive, get you a nice one right from the start and enjoy it for the rest of your life.
 
Beautiful mitre saws guys!!

I always look for saws, Disston, older Stanley and Miller's Falls, have not come across an older goodie such as you guys have posted.
Today I happened upon this Disston at a yard sale down the road from my boys school.

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I remember reading and viewing a post from SteveTall about sharpening.

Steve Tall said:
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Thanks Steve!!
This will be very useful when the snow starts flying here
 
I have not had much luck looking into this saw, but have found it had been made for this hardware store, Supplee-Biddle Hardware Company, Philadelphia...but who made the saw is a mystery still to me.

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Thanks for looking
 
Miller '72 said:
I have not had much luck looking into this saw, but have found it had been made for this hardware store, Supplee-Biddle Hardware Company, Philadelphia...but who made the saw is a mystery still to me.
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I have had very very poor luck at finding who made hardware brand tools. Here are ads for one man "peg" tooth cross cut saws from four major saw manufacturers for comparison:

plain tooth disston 1932



common tooth atkins 1941



peg tooth simonds 1923



common tooth ohlen-bishop 1927



FWIW: You may already know this and may not be valuable information, but at least in 1915 Supplee-Biddle sold Disston saws.




Also, if you haven't already, visit here:
http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/


Good Luck!

Bob
 
rjdankert said:
I have had very very poor luck at finding who made hardware brand tools. Here are ads for one man "peg" tooth cross cut saws from four major saw manufacturers for comparison:

plain tooth disston 1932



common tooth atkins 1941



peg tooth simonds 1923



common tooth ohlen-bishop 1927



FWIW: You may already know this and may not be valuable information, but at least in 1915 Supplee-Biddle sold Disston saws.




Also, if you haven't already, visit here:
http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/


Good Luck!

Bob
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Thank you for the link. I also came across some of the same brands you just listed but your list also has the connection to Disston.
That's very curious to me because I read somewhere last night about Disston and the Supple Biddle name but lost it.

Thank you Bob
 
I hope to be able to expose a little more of the etching, hopefully reveal some more information... time will tell, or not.:D
 
I had a few minutes this afternoon...

Miller '72 said:
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Looking at images and pictures of handle shapes, saw dimensions, supplement handle hold locations and the Disston marking here on the supplement handle.
I believe I have a 36" Plain Tooth Disston saw made for Supplee Biddle Hardware Company Philadelphia.
Possibly dating back to as early as 1925 as dated in the advertisement?

oCEvDAG.jpg
 
I have been searching for the optimal method for sharpening the plain tooth saw I have...to no luck.
Plenty of examples and specific instructions for much if not all the other tooth patterns.
I hate to assume so I thought I would ask here first.

Thanks
 
Miller '72 said:
I have been searching for the optimal method for sharpening the plain tooth saw I have...to no luck.
Plenty of examples and specific instructions for much if not all the other tooth patterns.
I hate to assume so I thought I would ask here first.

Thanks
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I have a 36" peg tooth (plate only) and have the same concerns. This is the only thing I could find in the stuff I have. It is from a U. S. Forest Service manual written for the CCC:




Bob
 
Miller '72 said:
I have been searching for the optimal method for sharpening the plain tooth saw I have...to no luck.
Plenty of examples and specific instructions for much if not all the other tooth patterns.
I hate to assume so I thought I would ask here first.

Thanks
Click to expand...


Here's a source with some basic instructions (which I cannot vouch for):
Wood Harvesting with Hand Tools (ILO, 1989, 128 p.)
http://www.appropedia.org/Original:Wood_Harvesting_with_Hand_Tools_6


MAINTAINING A PEG-TOOTH CROSS-CUT SAW

The following measures are recommended for triangular teeth:

Hardness of wood / Distance between points of two teeth / Height of tooth / Width of gullet between two teeth

Hard / 17 mm / 16 mm / 6.0 mm

Soft / 9 mm / 12 mm / 0.5 mm

Mixed hard and soft / 14 mm / 15 mm / 3.7 mm


Maintenance starts with jointing while the saw is firmly held in a vertical position by the filing vice. The jointer is run along the saw teeth using very little pressure (1). In normal use, the teeth in the middle of the saw will wear more quickly than those at the end. This is adjusted by increased pressure at the beginning and the end of the jointing stroke.

The jointing is continued until all cutter teeth show a small "flat" and jointing should stop when this happens. One or a few (if evenly distributed) badly worn or broken teeth are not considered. Further jointings will bring them back into the tooth line.

Cutter teeth filing is done with a 20 cm millsaw file using horizontal strokes parallel to the lines of a grid attached to the vice (2). The sharpening angle marked on the grid (2a) is 70° for hard wood and 60° for soft wood. These angles may be copied from figure 3. The top angle (2b) is 38° for hard and soft wood. A gauge is needed to check the sharpening angle and the top angle (4). During filing, the gullet should be lowered at the same time (5). First file one side of the saw, tooth by tooth, and then turn the saw and file the other side. Care must be taken to stop filing when the flat is about to disappear.

Deburring is done with the whetstone, the fine side of which is run lightly along both sides (as for raker-tooth saws, see page 38).

Setting is carried out with a setting indicator (6a) and a special saw set (6b). The correct set is 0.3-0.4 mm for hard wood and 0.5-0.6 mm for soft wood.

Note: Badly worn saws may need gulleting before sharpening begins. This is best done after having marked the gullet depth and position (7a). The round edge of the millsaw file is used for gulleting (7b).


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