Cru Wear/ Z wear heat treat advice wanted

[attila.]

".....Also, I didn't want/need to sand after heat treat. It's just not too difficult, so I'm cleaning up the surfaces of a couple that could use some closer attention.
...."

If you want knives that look and cut good, you always need to sand after HT. Regardless of the HT method, there is a thin layer that needs to be removed. If you merely want a knife that cuts so-so, you could not do anything but put an edge on. If you want a knife that cuts good, you need to sand the bevels to make the edge thinner than it was at HT.

I'm very sorry for the miscommunication! Of course, sanding is required to remove the heat treat scale and thinning the edge. I should have said that I didn't want/need to sand , but I assumed it was understood.

Thank you!

 

[attila.]

So, before finishing the handle scales, I sharpened one of my Z-wear blades and couldn't resist testing its cutting performance. I found a piece of 2x4 and decided to slice it nearly in half to see how the edge fares. I wasn't expecting anything stellar, but gave it a whirl anyway.

Please note that this was an impromptu and very informal test.
I don't know how a knotty 2x4 ranks on testing a small blade compared to say cardboard, rope, etc.
I have no experience with high-vanadium steels besides an old mediocre Benchmade in S30V.
The blade is Z-wear @ RC 61 by Peters Heat Treat.
The main bevel is a tad over 5 degrees per side, the edge is 15 degrees per side to 1200 grit.
Here are a few pics:

During the experiment, there were several instances when it sounded like steel may have chipped, but to my surprise, the edge was intact.
Afterwards, I was still able to shave arm hair with the curved portion of the blade, the portion which I focused on using in this experiment.
After stropping, shaving is amazingly smooth and easy!

I'm certainly pleased with Z-wear @ RC 61, and eagerly look forward to trying the CPM 4V!!!

I'd be happy to hear any comments/questions/recommendations!