CS Trail Hawk vs Husqvarna Hatchet

[Sulaco]

I've narrowed it down to these two and am trying to decide. I like the idea of being able to re-haft the Hawk if needs be, and being able to remove the head to use for various things. But the Husqvarna Hatchet seems to be a really good performer as well.

Whatever I get would mostly just be for basic bushcraft, camping duties. I would also have a medium sized knife along most of the time (probably something along the lines of a Mora or similar style knife).

Thought? Opinions? Ideas?

 

[Drummertist]

I'll tell you my story with both...

I first bought the Husqvarna hatchet and enjoyed it but found, after reading multiple posts on this and other forums, that quality was hit and miss depending on the "batch". Mine was misshapen, had pits in the head, the grain on the haft was horrible, and the head started coming off after light use. Now, I'm not speaking for all of them, as I've seen some amazing ones on the forums that look like Gransfors Bruks quality (at least in looks and haft quality anyway).

A month ago, I got a Trail Hawk and love it. It's not as good a chopper or splitter as a hatchet but it can still be a good tool around the campsite. It can require some customization and TLC for it to really shine (i.e. strip the paint, lose the set pin, convex the edge, etc). Since I've had it, it has become a very versatile tool that I find new uses for every day.

My thoughts are if you're going with the Husqvarna hatchet, go to a store that carries them and look at a whole batch before you choose; DON'T order it online. The reason for this is Husqvarna gets theirs from different forges (including Wetterlings [I think]; sometimes the "B" product). If you get a good one, it should last a lifetime as a camping friend. The Trail Hawk on the other hand is more of a "fun" tool. It's something fun to mod, customize (especially hafts), throw and whittle wood but it's great to hammer stakes and chop small limbs (3"-4") for the fire. It also batons well, but you have to torque it to split the wood due to the narrow bit. It will become such a personable tool that you'll want to carry it everywhere; Doesn't hurt that it's extremely light either.

BTW, you can get a Trail Hawk on Amazon for $25 shipped and a Husq for only $35. Why not get both?

 

[Tentmaker]

I own the Trail Hawk, and I've never been disappointed by it. I own no Husqvarna at all, so I can't say on that part, but the Trail Hawk is definitely a great tool. Not a splitter, it doesn't have the head for it.

 

[coloradowildman]

Like Drummertist, I also recently bought a Wetterlings made Husqvarna hatchet. The hatchet looked fine as far as alignment and grain direction, but the head also came loose within days of use. This is simply because Wetterlings stopped using a metal wedge pin on their hatchets, including the ones made for Husky. I've had two brand new Wetterlings hatchets bought within the last 6 months with loose heads as well, and neither had the pin.

All this said, with a metal pin this hatchet is really an awesome piece of gear. You can do what I did and just go to Ace Hardware and get the smallest metal wedge pin for only .15 cents and hammer it in (do it carefully, but it's not terribly hard to do). After doing this the head is super tight and I use the hell out of my Husky hatchet to chop kindling almost daily for our woodstove up here in the cold winter mountains.

Here's a pic of mine with the Ace Hardware metal wedge driven into it

 

[FAL'ER]

Pound for pound those Trail Hawks are hard to beat. I'd probably use a Gransfors axe next after the hawk.

 

[Sulaco]

Sounds like a recurring trend here! I wasn't aware of the QC issues w/ the Husky's. I think I'll start w/ a Hawk and save for a GB. Thanks guys!

 

[rg598]

I would go with the Husqvarna. Any quality issues are minor, and it will outperform a hawk with the same weight every time.

In my opinion, all the re-hafting and pulling out the head off a hawk tricks are just a gimmick. If you want a tool for working in the woods, get one that was designed for the task. You will never have to replace the handle of either in the woods, but you will have to chop and split wood with whichever one you pick. I say, go with the one that does the job better.

I also find it very interesting that people never mention the CQ issues with the CS hawks. How is the grain alignment on those handles?

 

[GRIM 62]

For bushcraft and camping,I'd get the hatchet.It might not have the cool factor,but it will perform those two duties better.Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[trailbum]

I would go with the Husqvarna. Any quality issues are minor, and it will outperform a hawk with the same weight every time.

In my opinion, all the re-hafting and pulling out the head off a hawk tricks are just a gimmick. If you want a tool for working in the woods, get one that was designed for the task. You will never have to replace the handle of either in the woods, but you will have to chop and split wood with whichever one you pick. I say, go with the one that does the job better.

I also find it very interesting that people never mention the CQ issues with the CS hawks. How is the grain alignment on those handles?

CS has never, I mean never, had any QC issues.
All their products are flawless.

I like my trailhawk but it will not outperform a good hatchet.IMO.

 

[Sulaco]

Well, I am going to start off with the Hawk just because it's cheaper (and I don't have enough in my budget for both right now!). But I'll add a good hatchet or small(ish) camp axe eventually.

I ordered the Hawk this morning. I'll probably do the recommended fluff n' buff (clean up the eye and the haft) but otherwise just use it. I hate not buying American, but it's nice to get something so cheap and be able to test it myself!

Thanks for all the input!

 

[Shotgun]

Sweet. I'm sure you'll like it.

My recomendation would have been dependent on the type of woods bumming you do. IMO the hawk can do chopping just as well as the hatchet but splitting it falls a little short. It does fine, just not as good as the hatchet. However, I do very little splitting in the woods so I don't have to worry about it. Other than the fact I don't use it to split, the three reasons I choose a hawk are; It's lighter than a hatchet, the head can come off at any time to be able to use it as a knife/ulu if for some reason you loose your knife, and most important IMO is the long haft. Not having to bend over to limb a tree is priceless and also using a longer torque arm allows the same amount of force to be applied to the cut with a lighter bit.

 

[Drummertist]

This is simply because Wetterlings stopped using a metal wedge pin on their hatchets, including the ones made for Husky. I've had two brand new Wetterlings hatchets bought within the last 6 months with loose heads as well, and neither had the pin.

All this said, with a metal pin this hatchet is really an awesome piece of gear. You can do what I did and just go to Ace Hardware and get the smallest metal wedge pin for only .15 cents and hammer it in (do it carefully, but it's not terribly hard to do). After doing this the head is super tight and I use the hell out of my Husky hatchet to chop kindling almost daily for our woodstove up here in the cold winter mountains.

Mine actually came with a circle pin in it's head and it still came undone. My bit is also slightly curved to the right which misaligns the handle and cutting edge.

I would go with the Husqvarna. Any quality issues are minor, and it will outperform a hawk with the same weight every time.

In my opinion, all the re-hafting and pulling out the head off a hawk tricks are just a gimmick. If you want a tool for working in the woods, get one that was designed for the task. You will never have to replace the handle of either in the woods, but you will have to chop and split wood with whichever one you pick. I say, go with the one that does the job better.

I also find it very interesting that people never mention the CQ issues with the CS hawks. How is the grain alignment on those handles?

From what I got with mine, the quality issues are anything but "minor". That being said, there are some goods Huskys out there...you just have to find them by hand. And yes, it will out-chop a hawk. The husky is meant to be a camping tool.

I also don't feel re-hafting or pulling the head off my trail hawk is a gimmick. It's because of this that I find new ways to use it everyday. It's also a helluva lot of fun to rehaft it. I did these using only the head...



To me the Trail hawk is a mod'ers tool. It's completely different from an axe or hatchet. As far as QC issues on my trail hawk the grain on my handle is perfectly straight, my head has no deep or gruesome pits (just normal drop forged texture) and my bit has never rolled over. Plus, the poll is hard as freakin' diamonds...but again, I've seen some pitted heads, bad-grained handles, etc. on other forums.

 

[rg598]

@ Drummertist-if you don't mind me asking, what were the QC issues with your Husqvarna hatchet? I only ask for informational purposes.

 

[coloradowildman]

@ Drummertist-if you don't mind me asking, what were the QC issues with your Husqvarna hatchet? I only ask for informational purposes.

His Husky by Wetterlings hatchet head came loose soon after buying, though apparently some here think that's not a QC issue

 

[Drummertist]

@ Drummertist-if you don't mind me asking, what were the QC issues with your Husqvarna hatchet? I only ask for informational purposes.

No worries dude! I'm not taking anything personally.

The issues I had was the head had pits filled with epoxy, it loosened and started sliding off the first day I had it (even though it had a circular pin on the top), the bit was assymetrical and leaned to the right (making the cutting edge not line up with the haft), and my handle grain was at a 45 degree angle (if I want to be nitpicky). Another nitpicky thing was how nasty the top of the haft (where the wedge and pin is) looked; Almost like the cut wasn't right before they put the wedge in.



I will say that many of these things seem nitpicky, but the nits start to add up. I was most disappointed at how assymetrical my head was including the poll. I will say it's a good chopper and I definitely use it, but it's not the "perfect" GB substitute people make them out to be.

 

[Shotgun]

His Husky by Wetterlings hatchet head came loose soon after buying, though apparently some here think that's not a QC issue

Well I think the head should stay on from the factory and that the grain should be correctly aligned but I for one go into buying an axe with the understanding that I'm going to replace the handle eventually. So I mostly nitpick about the head itself. Get the best head you can and don't worry about the wood. Wow that came out risque lol.

Drummertist, that bit alignment is unexceptable IMO. I would have sent that one back.

 

[rg598]

Thanks Drummerist.

 

[shecky]

Over the past few years, I've gained a bit of respect tor the Trail Hawk. Basically, it's never really been an impediment compared to a hatchet. It does not do end grain splitting as well as a comparably sized hatchet. But I've found it does side splitting just as well, or even better, possibly because of the narrow bit and relatively thick handle near the head allow for good twisting leverage and durability. But bushcrafting, I'm not all that qualified, but I suspect the larger bit on a hatchet might have an advantage. However, the hawk head is easily removed and replaced, which makes it very easy to use for fine work. As far as chopping goes, I honestly don't see too much difference when it comes to hatchet-sized small jobs.

I'm liking the hawk more because of the fun factor. But comparing a hawk with a similarly sized hatchet, the theoretical differences kind of melt away.

 

[cody1]

I contacted Husqvarna about their hatchets and axes. One person said that the huskies were Wetterling factory seconds. Completely false!!!!!! The huskies from the last three runs have all come from Wetterling. Wetterling has under gone a bit of a reshaping, as they were bought recently by the guy who owns GB. The Wetterlings of recent times have had far worse fit and finish issues. The Wetterling is on the left. See the pits, thick obtuse geometry, and miss aligned grain in the handle? The Husqvarna on the right is far better.

The most recent runs from Wetterling have improved a lot. The GB influence is very obvious. Husqvarna is switching manufactoring companies because Wetterling up'd the cost of the next run a lot.
It's always best to handle any tool you buy. I would not buy a CS hawk off the internet. You are taking a far larger gamble buying a CS hawk. The hawks coming from CS have far more fit and finish issues than the husky hatchets. Heat treat is hit and miss, edge will need adjustment, handles are hit and miss, cast forged, mass produced by the thousands. The fact that people call them "Great Moding tools" should tell you that they come pretty crappy. As always, buy what you want. Just opinions here.

 

[shecky]

It's always best to handle any tool you buy. I would not buy a CS hawk off the internet. You are taking a far larger gamble buying a CS hawk. The hawks coming from CS have far more fit and finish issues than the husky hatchets. Heat treat is hit and miss, edge will need adjustment, handles are hit and miss, cast forged, mass produced by the thousands. The fact that people call them "Great Moding tools" should tell you that they come pretty crappy. As always, buy what you want. Just opinions here.

Opinions indeed. While I agree it's nice to handle a tool before buying, CS hawks are not a particularly big gamble here. Probably no more than any Husky hatchet. One of the things I've noticed about CS hawks is that they are consistently decent. Heat treat, no issues. Handles, no issues. Cast forged? Non issue. Mass produced... really non issue. Fit and finish issues? Not any more than the Husky in this thread.

CS edges do need to be refined if you want to use them to cut stuff. Not particularly unusual for a chopping tool.

And the fact that they are great modding tools tells me that... they are inexpensive, and basically good. Why would anyone waste time modding an expensive, fundamentally crappy tool?