CS Trail Hawk woes

[Murphyslaw]

My CS Trail Hawk always gets an impacted and/or rolled edge when doing what I consider light work. I already convexed it on a belt sander (that made a big difference in performance for my Fiskars 14") but it did not improve the CSTH's edge strength.

Maybe a loss of temper issue?

How did the Trail Hawk's edge perform prior to convexing it?

While convexing, how hot did the edge get on the belt sander?

Any discoloration at the edge? Did you cool with water while convexing?

If it were mine, I would rework the edge a bit (maybe 1/8th of an inch back) being careful not to overheat the edge, and see what happens.

 

[Any Cal.]

I saw that thread on the Fiskars, but it doesn't really matter if one broke. I used mine quite a bit at less than 0F with no issues. There are threads showing a broken GB hatchet too, but I still like my SFA.

As far as the hardness of the Trailhawk, my Norse hawk wasn't particularly hard either. Neither was my Fiskars. I don't think you are going to get a hard bit unless you step up in cost considerably, and then you will be taking on something that is a bit more brittle as well.

 

[SteelIsReal]

Would it be worth getting a CS trail hawk head cryo-treated?

It's 1055 steel, should be a straightforward process.

eg: these folks (no commercial connection to me)
http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/

being in Oz, I would probably use this firm
http://www.cryocycle.com.au/

I do have a wetterlings hunting axe and it's a fine tool that chops beautifully. :thumbup:

 

[28gauge]

+ 1 on the temper issue mentioned earlier. It doesn't take much heat to draw temper and a belt sander on an edge, where there is little metal mass, can get it real hot, fast.

 

[Pipeman]

I use a diamond file for reshaping and then I use black sand paper for polishing the edge never a heat issue.

Regards

Robin

 

[Joezilla]

If your edge is rolling, the grind is too acute or thin. The Cold Steel hawks are primarily for throwing I believe. They are 1055 carbon steel hardened to about 53Rc. So probably not your best choice for your primary wood prcocessor.

That said I used one all day yesterday to chip the 8" layer of ice that accumulated on all my gutters, a four hour job :grumpy:. I did not notice any decrease in performance other than my arm feeling like Jello and the burning nerve pain today . The bit was dulled but not chipped, rolled, or impacted. I sharpened it up to a nice working edge today (Job not done yet).

I have been eyeing Roselli's Axe lately.

It has a razor sharp convex edge but man is it thick!

Anyone here have one? What are your thoughts? (not to hijack )

I've had my eye on these for a while. How much does yours weigh?

 

[JGON]

The only time mine rolls an edge is when I accidentally strike a rock when throwing it or something. For wood processing though, it is an inferior tool to many other axes or hatchets. For a backpacking hatchet, the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet is my favorite. A larger one, designed to be held with two hands, would be more efficient but obviously larger and more cumbersome to carry. Here's my wildlife hatchet.

JGON

 

[HawGorn]

Joezilla, my kitchen scale gives 790g with the sheat for the larger Roselli.