curly blackwood require stabilization and finishing

shamu

shamu

Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
217
A friend of mine won an Instagram giveaway from @tasmanian_burl. he won a "curly blackwood block", and wants to turn it into scales for a full tang knife we're going to work on together. Considering this, 2 questions:

1. does this wood, for this application, require stabilization?
2. what's the best way to finish this wood to get the most out of it?

in other news. i've been real busy moving, but ive met up w/some local knifemakers who forge. they've been mentoring me, and have opened up their forge to me. it's been a blast...i hope to update you guys soon w/my 1st forged knife. i personally enjoy it so much more than stock removal so far. the internet, chiefly the amazing BF, has been critical to learning this craft (albeit at a snail's pace)...but in-person feedback is really great too. i suggest anyone who is struggling/beginning/confused to reach out to someone in their area. put yourself out there, and get off the computer, but don't let your BF account expire! :)
 
If it's Tasmanian/Australian blackwood I would treat it like Koa.
 
You wood block snob you, not everyone has had the pleasure of working with Koa! :)

jk of course, i'll search around for koa details. thanks kuraki.
 
Somebody say koa? Curly koa is about the only thing that gets my wallet open quicker than figured Rosewood....
 
This is the actual piece.

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Sorry, I meant, I would treat it as koa meaning I would stabilize it and work it like stabilized koa, finishing it with an oil or wax finish after the final buff.
 
I've usually found it worthwhile giving a coat of truoil before buffing stabilized woods. Even some of the stabilized pieces I've used (a lot of yellow cedar burl done by K&G) had some pores in them that would collect buffing compound.
My finishing routine is usually truoil, buff, and then buff with a loose flannel buff charged with carnauba wax.
 
Yes, that is good advice. I usually have a coat on it from sanding.
 
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