Custom axe display

R

rcwells

Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
565
I have this collection of Lee Reeves pieces and a couple others and wanted to display them. So I searched and searched and searched and found NOTHING for an axe collection display, only some storage solutions, or store displays that don't show the axes so much.
So I finally came up with an idea of my own and am working on it now. I picked up some Pearl River Cedar (supposedly these were sunken river logs) log sections cut on a bandsaw, and have sanded one of the pieces down and I'm ready to figure out the finishing of it. I tried a Polyurethane coat and a Stain on the backside of the piece but was not at all pleased with the results.

I have laid out a few of the axes to get an idea of how to orient them on the display, but it is not set in stone and I have another piece of the wood that will also be used to display the rest of the ones that I have and perhaps some room for future additions. This will ultimately hang on a wall.

My question to you guys is: "Do any of you have any experience finishing cedar wood?"
I realize this could be the wrong section for this or perhaps even the wrong forum, but I just was hoping with some of you guys rehanging your own axe heads, that you might have some experience with different wood types and finishing products.
I just want the thing to pop, shine, and be a beautiful background to display these works of art and I'm leaning towards a thick poly finish, like a bar-top would have, but not sure how that will work out with my dowels that will support my axes. ??? Put the dowels in and THEN do the poly? Or do the poly and drill through it?
The idea is there I just need some guidance or advice in the finishing it up department.

Thanks for any suggestions or advice in advance.

RC
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_IMG_0760.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_0760.jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 140
rcwells said:
. . .

My question to you guys is: "Do any of you have any experience finishing cedar wood?". . .
Click to expand...
I have never worked with cedar.

rcwells said:
. . .I just want the thing to pop, shine, and be a beautiful background . . .
Click to expand...
The best thing I have done to "pop" the grain is oil. Boiled linseed is my current go to, but others are also good. Once the oil is on and dry, you can then use what ever clear coating you want.

I like what you are doing, especially the "live edges".


Bob
 
Thanks Bob for the input. I have some BLO and had considered trying that out, but before I finalize it I'm going to do some more research and reading on finishing cedar. I just appreciate when I can get first hand experience, and several sources and especially from guys that have worked wood and know the ins and outs.
Thanks again.
 
Like Bob said, I am in the process of redoing my kitchen cabinets in ceder but for that I'm using polyurethane because of the location and use factors.
For your application I would not use any high gloss finish and just go with oil and wax finish you want the axes to stand out!
Rick
 
So just BLO? Or just LO, not boiled?
And what wax?
Will that pop? I want it to be pretty to look at which sounds kinda girly, but I want it to be an attraction. Something that draws people to look at it and then appreciate the axes.
 
Any oil for wood finishing wood boiled linseed oil, Watco, or Minwax. Test it on the back in a small section to see if you like it as for the wax any high quality past finishing wax should work just fine. One final note the back of your display needs to be sealed to keep it from absorbing moisture.
Rick
 
For "pop and shine" I think water base is best. High gloss non yellowing and you can build a pretty good thickness. You don't need a durable bar top finish. Water base is very durable but not real resistant to some stuff that might be be spilled on a bar top. I think you will need a stain under it. Be sure your stain and finish is compatible. The easiest way is to stick to he same brand and base.
I like Minwax high gloss water base. Read labels and don't be afraid to ask for assistance at the paint store. It can save you from lots of problems down the road. Nothing quite like fixing a messed up finish when it's so much easier to avoid any problems to start with.
Staying away from silicon carbide sand paper and steel wool might save you some problems.
I have used it for years on my cedar arrow shafts. Over both paints and stain. It gives an effect of being covered or behind glass but very clear. It might be what you are looking for and water base is not bad to work with or clean up.
 
I like how you think Garry3, an ounce of prevention....
I have already sanded and have no idea if the paper had silicon carbide in it, I'll have to check.
As for the water based stuff, can you recommend specifically what to use? Minwax what? Specifics?

Thanks!
 
rcwells said:
I like how you think Garry3, an ounce of prevention....
I have already sanded and have no idea if the paper had silicon carbide in it, I'll have to check.
As for the water based stuff, can you recommend specifically what to use? Minwax what? Specifics?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
The paper usually doesn't cause problems but it can. Blow it off or vacuum and wipe down with a tack cloth.
This is the one I use. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Glo..._clickID=d2ea20a4-905e-42ca-9c39-62a53680e75f
 
Thanks guys! I will try the what G3 recommended and let you know the outcome! Thanks again all of you!
 
rockman0 said:
Cox custom cases uses carnuba wax. They make high end display cases for collectibles. You might want to experiment with carnuba wax. Here's a link to Cox and a link to a woodworking site covering carnuba wax. Nice display you have there!!
http://www.coxcustomcases.com
http://www.woodworkdetails.com/knowledge/finishing/wax
Click to expand...
Good idea. I will at times go over the finish(lightly)with an oiled and backed felt pad sprinkled with rotten stone. Follow that up with carnuba wax and buff by hand with a cotton cloth. Silly shine.
I have not tried it with poly though.
 
rcwells said:
Details on mixture? Sourcing?
Click to expand...

1: bees wax
4: mineral oil
Melt together at low heat in a pan, I set it on my wood stove, stir it up when melted and pour it in a container, it will cool to a paste.
Mineral oil can be bought in a hardware store or pharmacy section at a supermarket
Bees wax you'll have to find a source yourself, I got mine from a private party in a news paper add but you can get it from bee keepers or Internet search eBay etc.
This paste is also food grade so you can use it on wood bowls, butcher blocks etc. nice stuff to have around the house!
 
Well after several rounds of trial, I decided on a Polyurethane. I tried Carnauba wax, polycrylic, BLO, and a stain I had here. None looked to good to me, but the PolyU clear gloss is gonna work out ok. I have to wait for the initial application to dry, then sand, and put another coat on. I think it will be decent.
Thanks guys for all the input!
 
Cedar can be really pretty (the old growth stuff especially) but it's also very soft. I've successfully used many brands of coating finishes (including Varathane Elite (water-based)) on cedar and redwood. Construct the entire rack, remove finger prints, smudges and pencil marks with fine sandpaper and go to town with a 'best quality' brush for a minimum of 3 coats. If you carefully sand in between coats and use a 'high gloss' (instead of satin or semi-gloss) product you can make the surfaces look like a smooth pane of glass.
The alternative of assembling the unit (namely the pegs) after finish coating will allow you to use a fine roller but then require you to clean out/off the holes or joints. Some coatings (Varathane Professional is one) are available as spray bombs. This is the ultimate for achieving a mirror finish but does hike the cost considerably.
 
This is after just the first coat, too late to do any sanding, hopefully tmw will have it sanded and the second coat applied. I'm still hoping the second coat will have more shine to it than what it is now.
Then start making final decisions on hanging arrangement and then figure out how to hang this slab on the wall! Still working that out....??
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_IMG_0766.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_0766.jpg
    40.4 KB · Views: 40
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top