Custom Composite Sheaths

Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
334
My experimentations have led me down the path to attempt making a few sheaths. Encouraging, IMO.

These were made using kevlar sleeving with carbon fiber and hybrid carbon fiber/ fiberglass covering.

I used two layers of kevlar and a single layer of carbon fiber covering here:
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On the Tanto I used two layers of kevlar with a hybrid carbon fiber/ green fiberglass covering.

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The tanto shows the unique hybrid sleeving, which I can get from my material supplier in carbon fiber and fiberglass or kevlar. They have a number of stock colors and they offer custom color matching. I may be able to get plain fiberglass sleeves in a solid color in the furure. I will be soon making custom colored handmade G10 scales. These sheaths can be color matched to match my custom G10 scales.


I have been using kevlar on the inside for the cut resistant properties of the material and then covering it for a nicer look, although the plain yellow kevlar looks OK. This makes a sheath with a similar thickness to kydex. (one layer of epoxied material comes out to about .020"-.025")

I think it may be reasonable to use only two layers when using the kevlar/ carbon fiber hybrid. This would make for a very low profile sheath.These also seem very gentle to the knives themselves, and have not worn either of these knives like kydex would have.

So, what do you think? Worthy of further attempts? Do you think someone be interested in buying one? These are pretty labor intensive, so I hate to give a wag (wild ass guess) on pricing, but perhaps 30-40 for simple one and perhaps twice that for multiple layers, custom colors and belt loops/ clips/tec locs.

I believe I have a new and unique idea and would like to know your thoughts. Let me have your feedback, please. Any helpful input and constructive criticism is welcome.

Thanks for looking!

-Todd

PS: Want a Flashlight Pimped?:)

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This is a little to high tech for my tastes. Reminds me of my brothers Honda civic that he added mods to. But heres a few ideas for you. I think it would look good with "tactical" type knives, maybe satin finished hardware?
How is the fit? Mabey something to help hold the blade in place. Also it would look better if you could smooth them out. The look a little wavy.

Jest tryin to help good luck and interesting idea.
 
Dammit Todd, I was gonna do that....

Seriously though, nice work. It looks like you made a plug for the sheath then hollowed it out after the sleeve cured ? I'm curious as to what resins you like to use. Judging by your handle, you're set up for phenolic work ? Hmmm........

Sorry, back to the topic at hand: do you think it might be worthwhile to use the plug and a parting board to generate a female mold to give a uniform finish on the outside? If the front and back sides are symmetrical than you could pull both shells from the same mold. Dunno, just kicking ideas around.

I love seeing people try something new and different !

EDIT: Forgive my ignorance (I'm still new to the knifemaking game) but what's the copper for ?
 
Thanks Gentlemen, I appreciate the feedback.

Will,
It is not a look for everyone, I must admit. I will have the capability for custom colors soon and I think that will be helpful so I can do the carbon fiber kevlar / fiberglass sleeve in either the black/colored zig-zag or solid color. They can be made more matte by sanding or blasting. I have some handmade G10 concepts coming out soon that may work well with this idea. I do need to come up with a way to get the waves out, see my answer to DeadEye below, and do belt loops, clips, etc. These styles allowed me to ignore those details.

DeadEyeLefty:
Dammit man I beat you to it!
I have been using the blade itself as a the plug. I wrapped the blades tightly in Al foil then dipped them in wax. The uneven wax build up accounts for much of the waviness. I will be doing something different for the next one, in addition to a belt loop.

I did split the handle and inlet like you describe for the tanto. I think using the blade as the plug, for the initial kevlar inner works best, as long as you make reasonable precautions against epoxying the whole mess onto the blade...
I prefer clear, low odor epoxy resins for what I have been doing lately. Otherwise, here in Michigan, I probably would not be making much progress.

This picture should explain the copper bit called the habaki:
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