I'm not exactly sure how to go about asking about having something custom made, and Yangdu will be out for awhile, so I figure the best way to get info is to ask here. Might even get some good tips for improving the design. What exactly is the procedure for custom work, and getting a price quote?
Basically, I'd like a pickle knife that's not ridiculously overpriced. I'm a pretty big fan of the pickle (pikal
) concept; stab in, tear out. Edge in for huge leverage. But, of course, the vast majority of knives are designed for edge out use. And most purpose-built pickle knives are overpriced, and most of them are unusable for edge-out techniques.
Here's my design. It's fairly similar to the Omani, from Laci Szabo, but with some obvious differences. I also don't expect it to cost $400!
A bit more of a guard to keep the hand from slipping, and the blade bends forward just a bit, with just the slightest recurve. And the gut-hook type thing on the back. Seems to me, when cutting pickle-style, if you push the blade in too deep, if there's a choil or unsharpened portion of the blade, it can get caught, and you stop cutting. I've had this happen, test-cutting stuff with my Emerson LaGriffe. Hence the gut-hook like thing at the base of the blade. That way, it's pretty much guaranteed you'll keep cutting, unless you hit bone or something. I really hope the kamis can produce such a complex shape. But I figure it shouldn't be much more complex than making a cho.
The edge depths should be about equal, like a dagger, since it's intended to be suitable both for pickle, and for standard edge-out slashes. The radius of the inside edge should be about 18" (i.e., if you had a circle 3 feet wide, the back edge of the knife would follow the circle's curve), as this is about halfway between the size of the circle made by rotating the elbow, and the one made when rotating the shoulder. This way, the curve of the knife follows the natural movement of the arm, when stabbing.
My cardboard and modeling clay prototype has a blade length of 5.5", handle length of 5". On my monitor, at least, the pic is life-size. Good size, though a bit hard to conceal. Thickness, I'll leave up to the kamis. Needs to be thin enough to cut deep, but thick enough not to break under the rigors of combat.
A sheath shouldn't be necessary, as I'd like one in kydex. I'm sure the sarkis have better things to do than make a sheath that would never be used. I've had problems with leather growing mold a few too many times to use anything but kydex. Yuck! Can anyone recommend a good kydex sheath maker, that charges reasonable rates? I could just have the knife shipped straight to them to have a sheath fitted, and then finally to me, to save shipping costs.
Anyway, that's my design so far. Should be a good 'un, and very versatile. Capable of wickedly powerful slashes (for its size and weight) and accurate stabs, in either a forward or reverse grip, with the front or back edge.
Basically, I'd like a pickle knife that's not ridiculously overpriced. I'm a pretty big fan of the pickle (pikal
) concept; stab in, tear out. Edge in for huge leverage. But, of course, the vast majority of knives are designed for edge out use. And most purpose-built pickle knives are overpriced, and most of them are unusable for edge-out techniques.
Here's my design. It's fairly similar to the Omani, from Laci Szabo, but with some obvious differences. I also don't expect it to cost $400!
A bit more of a guard to keep the hand from slipping, and the blade bends forward just a bit, with just the slightest recurve. And the gut-hook type thing on the back. Seems to me, when cutting pickle-style, if you push the blade in too deep, if there's a choil or unsharpened portion of the blade, it can get caught, and you stop cutting. I've had this happen, test-cutting stuff with my Emerson LaGriffe. Hence the gut-hook like thing at the base of the blade. That way, it's pretty much guaranteed you'll keep cutting, unless you hit bone or something. I really hope the kamis can produce such a complex shape. But I figure it shouldn't be much more complex than making a cho.
The edge depths should be about equal, like a dagger, since it's intended to be suitable both for pickle, and for standard edge-out slashes. The radius of the inside edge should be about 18" (i.e., if you had a circle 3 feet wide, the back edge of the knife would follow the circle's curve), as this is about halfway between the size of the circle made by rotating the elbow, and the one made when rotating the shoulder. This way, the curve of the knife follows the natural movement of the arm, when stabbing.
My cardboard and modeling clay prototype has a blade length of 5.5", handle length of 5". On my monitor, at least, the pic is life-size. Good size, though a bit hard to conceal. Thickness, I'll leave up to the kamis. Needs to be thin enough to cut deep, but thick enough not to break under the rigors of combat.
A sheath shouldn't be necessary, as I'd like one in kydex. I'm sure the sarkis have better things to do than make a sheath that would never be used. I've had problems with leather growing mold a few too many times to use anything but kydex. Yuck! Can anyone recommend a good kydex sheath maker, that charges reasonable rates? I could just have the knife shipped straight to them to have a sheath fitted, and then finally to me, to save shipping costs.
Anyway, that's my design so far. Should be a good 'un, and very versatile. Capable of wickedly powerful slashes (for its size and weight) and accurate stabs, in either a forward or reverse grip, with the front or back edge.