Custom Leek scales?

Rival1314 said:
While it may sound easy, unless you have a precision mill...i can tell you first hand its not. you need to get exactly 0.060" deep, and follow a specific curve to allow it to work. This causes 3 problems.

1. you cannot pattern the top because most scales are only 0.100 or 0.125" thick. This also weakens a portion of the scale if you go too deep.
2. You have to get extremely close to the edges. Without a precision mill you will end up with a chip, crack, or missing portion of an edge.
3. Leeks & cryos have a 2 depth milling pattern to allow for the cover plate to protect the torsion bar. One layer is one thing, but 2 is too much.

I have been able to do speedsafe on some knives, but not a leek yet. I have seen pics of a thin overlay scale on a leek, but thats about it. If someone can do one I'd love to see what their milling looks like...
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Any pictures of the inside of the scales?
 
cEdge said:
No pics but there are some videos on youtube, search under "Kershaw Leek Field Strip"
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I have a Cryo on the way, and was planning on making some scales for it. If they're similar, it would just be a matter of getting my hands on a Leek-- and i've always wanted one anyhow. So i'd suggest holding your breath for a Cryo post in the next few weeks, as it would be a sign one way or the other.
 
roblockwood said:
I have a Cryo on the way, and was planning on making some scales for it. If they're similar, it would just be a matter of getting my hands on a Leek-- and i've always wanted one anyhow. So i'd suggest holding your breath for a Cryo post in the next few weeks, as it would be a sign one way or the other.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:
 
1. drill a detent on the blade.
2. see if it still flips well (mine didn't).
3. If #2 is a go, match the washers upwards in size, do away with the speedsafe, and you will have an easier time with future custom scales for your Leek.
4. If #2 is a nogo, reassemble and pick another knife.

Thinking outside the box, and I don't know if this is feasible because you would be working with really thin pieces, you can do 3 thin layers instead of having to mill down to 2 different precision depths, and glue them all up afterwards. A lot of work, but less room for error, and you would still have speedsafe. If you get really decent at it, you could do this for all speedsafe knives.
 
volt_2_speedsafe_zpsdb304442.jpg


i'm assuming this is the "trouble area"

.013" isn't a whole lot, but should be achievable.
 
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