Custom Survival Wanted

I like it! The Choil makes huge sense!
Outdoorsman.jpg
 
What do you think of this?

http://www.pattonblades.com/1209-1.JPG

Phillip

Phillip,

The blade is ideal, nice - I do like a slightly raised, thumb rest (not sure if that is the proper name) though. It looks like about a 4", I would like it a little more if it were about 6". If the handle index finger support (again unsure of proper terms) was a bit longer, had a couple holes (to make a spear - maybe its the Rambo in me!), and a butt like a cross between the LMF and a Ka-Bar.

It is a nice knife though, maybe as is in about a 3" for playing...

Max
 
Phillip,

The blade is ideal, nice - I do like a slightly raised, thumb rest (not sure if that is the proper name) though. It looks like about a 4", I would like it a little more if it were about 6". If the handle index finger support (again unsure of proper terms) was a bit longer, had a couple holes (to make a spear - maybe its the Rambo in me!), and a butt like a cross between the LMF and a Ka-Bar.

It is a nice knife though, maybe as is in about a 3" for playing...

Max

The blade length is 5-3/4", of course it could be stretched out to 6" :).
Total length about 11 or 11.5"

I have a knife I'm working on (a custom order) that has a thumb ramp with grooves. It's a recurve knife, but I could do the same with the drop point blade. Here's a drawing:

blainesdrawing.JPG
 
The blade length is 5-3/4", of course it could be stretched out to 6" :).
Total length about 11 or 11.5"

I have a knife I'm working on (a custom order) that has a thumb ramp with grooves. It's a recurve knife, but I could do the same with the drop point blade. Here's a drawing:

blainesdrawing.JPG

Another nice knife... I sent you an e-mail.

Max
 
Beautiful fighter Phillip! As much as I love it, I think that its survival uses would be lacking, IMHO.
 
i second keith's opinion. although i like mr pattons design(s) very much (no personal experience), i consider a second edge on a survival knife to be dangerous and not very useful. an unsharpened swedge might add some fighter (and skinner) qualities without endangering the user.

i'd choose a "classic" camp knife design with a blade between 8 and 10 inches, single or no guard, heavy enough for light chopping, and (if it has a guard) plenty of space on the choil to place the forefinger in front of the guard for whittling and other delicate tasks.

i highly recommend burt foster (blue collar line), maybe matt lamey. designwise, kevin cashen makes an excellent camp knife, but the materials he likes to use make his knives a little bit pricey.

and, as far as i know, you get a lot of knife for the money from mr patton! maybe you can talk him round to modify one of his designs.

regards,
hans

edited to add: no recurve on a survival knife! depending on the sharpening device you have handy, a recurved edge can be a real pain to sharpen!
 
I think that a single edge would be nice for batoning, a straight edge for wood work, other than that, I love that knife.

Guess you didn't click on the link: ;) This is the knife Phillip put forward for the survival role:

orig.jpg


Roger
 
Roger's right; I only posted the recurve to give the OP an idea of what my thumb ramp would look like. ;)
Have a great holiday, everybody!
 
lots of excellent ideas here. Here's my suggestion. Go custom. Get on the phone or email a custom maker (Phillip Patton seems like a good choice), talk at length, tell him what kind of performance you're looking for, answer his questions, etc...let him build it. Keep in mind, if you're not 100% satisfied with the design or feel of the knife when it's finished, it's probably because you were not at the point where you knew exactly what works for you, at the time you ordered. Probably not the maker's fault. There's a very real "trial and error" process involved. That's how a lot of us wound up here.

Pete
 
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