Customized Munk Chunk

S

Sam1911

Joined
Feb 1, 2011
Messages
30
Hi all! A friend of mine, let's call him 'John', asked me to join and post a few pictures of a little work I've been doing on a Munk Chunk of his, and maybe seek some insights and inspiration.

I am almost brand new at working with knives, as this is my second. However, I am a woodworker and hand-tool guy by training, so I don't come at this a complete newbie.

I'd never seen a Munk Chunk, so I had to stifle a mild urge to run in fear when I opened it! :D What a blade! What a horrible handle! And someone had been throwing it at a brick wall or something.

Anyway, fast-forwarding a few too many weeks (and an interesting new scar) to the present, I can share the following pics:

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Now... to the criticism (be gentle!), the suggestions (be prolific), and my thoughts (probably verbose).

-Sam
 
My notes so far:

Handle is Bocote, with black fiber liner.

Pins are stainless hollow tube.

Epoxy is from TX Knifemakers' Supply and is their 15-min. mid cure.

Sheath is 0.080" Kydex with a large TekLok. The (probably the wrong word) 'frog' is drilled to mount the TekLok either straight-drop or reverse-cant for cross-draw.
 
I really like the grain pattern in the wood.
It is an awesome looking piece of field kit.
Where are those Flintstone-size brontosaurus ribs when you need them?
 
My issues:

WOW, this is differentially heat-treated in the extreme. About 3" of the belly is tempered to what I'd consider 'ok' hardness. The tip and the base of the blade (call it ~8" of the total length) are so dead soft that I can cut them like brass with a file.

Of course, I really didn't notice that until after I'd affixed handles and started to work on polishing and removing dings and scratches, so having it re-heat-treated probably involves either some very creative techniques or re-doing the handles. As I'm new to such implements, though, perhaps a certain lack of hardness is acceptable (more like a machete?) but I'll need input on this.

I keep noticing small epoxy voids along the handle/liner junction. I've worked with epoxies for more than a decade (mostly West System) and figured I'd have this nailed. I've filled a few small pockets, but am concerned that the adhesion might not be very good, even though the materials were all heavily degreased and roughened before application.
 
Sam1911 said:
Hi all! A friend of mine, let's call him 'John', asked me to join and post a few pictures of a little work I've been doing on a Munk Chunk of his, and maybe seek some insights and inspiration.
I am almost brand new at working with knives, as this is my second. However, I am a woodworker and hand-tool guy by training, so I don't come at this a complete newbie.
I'd never seen a Munk Chunk, so I had to stifle a mild urge to run in fear when I opened it! What a blade! What a horrible handle! And someone had been throwing it at a brick wall or something.
Anyway, fast-forwarding a few too many weeks (and an interesting new scar) to the present, I can share the following pics:

Now... to the criticism (be gentle!), the suggestions (be prolific), and my thoughts (probably verbose).

-Sam
Click to expand...

Sam1911 said:
My issues:

WOW, this is differentially heat-treated in the extreme. About 3" of the belly is tempered to what I'd consider 'ok' hardness. The tip and the base of the blade (call it ~8" of the total length) are so dead soft that I can cut them like brass with a file.
Of course, I really didn't notice that until after I'd affixed handles and started to work on polishing and removing dings and scratches, so having it re-heat-treated probably involves either some very creative techniques or re-doing the handles. As I'm new to such implements, though, perhaps a certain lack of hardness is acceptable (more like a machete?) but I'll need input on this.
I keep noticing small epoxy voids along the handle/liner junction. I've worked with epoxies for more than a decade (mostly West System) and figured I'd have this nailed. I've filled a few small pockets, but am concerned that the adhesion might not be very good, even though the materials were all heavily degreased and roughened before application.
Click to expand...

Welcome Sam1911 !!!,

The cleavers are Differentially HT'ed the same as the Khukuri. They are HT'ed in a coal forge using tepid water from a teapot in the time honored traditional manner. It has been this way for hundreds of years. The sweet Spot is hardened and the rest is softer to provide all the resilience that 5160 can provide. The tips are left unhardened to prevent impact shattering.
Maybe it is not to your liking, but most members find the handles on the Munk Chunk and AK Bowie quite comfortable. I have no problem with my own.

Nice looking handle and good work cleaning it up.
It should be noted though that our products are not throwing knives and it is not recommended that you do so. Doing so may void your warranty.
 
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Looks like you got a good combination going there. Been wanting kydex for my Chunk as the sheath was a bit beat when I got it in trade.
 
Sam1911, looks good did you taper the tang while you were in there or was it forged that way? Bocote looks good nice grain.
Karda, I have no problems with the handles of any of my HI's but once you've redone a handle so that it fits you like you were born with it... you just get spoiled:D Now completely rehandle something by Bura and I just might take issue with it. To be fair and not to slight the Kami's but you average American wood "butcher" (myself included) have access to tools and woods that just plain don't exist in Nepal. Kami's use skill and heart we Americans just use dollars;) Personally I would have left or tried to duplicate the palm swell of the handles that Munk Chunk originally sported.
 
Thank you SO much Karda for the information! I feel a lot better about the heat-treating, as it did seem to almost have to be purposefully done. As I said, the center of the belly (sweet spot as you perfectly described) was plenty hard to keep a decent edge. My implement and tool experience had not prepared me for the softness of the rest of the blade, but your explanation makes perfect sense.

I certainly will not be doing any throwing of this knife, and I only suggested that John had in jest. It was a bit dinged when I received it. :)

The handle on this example was pretty rough. I did not mean to indicate that it was not serviceable at all, but it was not anywhere near the finish level I've seen on the products on your site. (Very porous and "marrowish.") It very well may be that something untoward had been done to it prior to me getting my hands on it.

Thank you for your kind words, and for bringing such intriguing products to us!
 
Looks like you got a good combination going there. Been wanting kydex for my Chunk as the sheath was a bit beat when I got it in trade.
Click to expand...
It seems a good combination, though the retention is still a bit enthusiastic. I did not receive an original sheath with this one.
 
Sam1911, looks good did you taper the tang while you were in there or was it forged that way? Bocote looks good nice grain.
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No, I did not substantively change the tang profile or thickness. Perhaps a little smoothing under the scales is all. I considered fitting the handles to the taper to be part of the challenge and beauty of the product.

Personally I would have left or tried to duplicate the palm swell of the handles that Munk Chunk originally sported.
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Well, again, I may have received something that had been altered previously. Maybe John will add a few words?

There was no palm swell to speak of on the original handles. They were simple, rough, porous bone, ground with a very simple beveled shape (down into the marrow chambers) and then coated with a brown substance. They did not cover the whole tang, at all, but stopped at the blade and perhaps an inch back from the pommel. If the handles of a Munk Chunk are routinely similar to those pictured on this AK Bowie then something had definitely happened to them, and I humbly apologize for implying that the product was inferior as shipped!

John had sent me a picture of himself holding an ESEE Junglas and I took some inspiration on the handle from those basic lines. I find a smoother profile is always complimented by a striking wood figure. A more highly contoured or carved form probably needs a less striking wood grain to really show off.
 
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Great work! You could have a lucrative side business in the future.
 
Great work! You could have a lucrative side business in the future.
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Ironically, I've never been "the knife guy," but since buying a blank from my friend Don L. and finishing that, folks have started giving me things to work on.

I really don't mind! I just need to be a little more mindful of leaving large blades clamped in bench vices edge-upward. :eek:
 
Thank you sam, but i have nothing to do with the making or getting the product here....that is Aunties Area of expertise. I just mind the Forum, Welcome newcomers, Answer questions and generally keep all the ne'er-do-wells in line. :D

Here is a pic of a Munk Chunk cleaver. This one has finger grooves. They generally do not have them, but the general shape is the same.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8476026&postcount=27
 
Good to see you, Sam! It's hard being a perfectionist, ain't it? :D Thanks for introducing yourself, and sharing the pics.

This Chunk was generously given to me by a forum friend. It was usable, but it was just...rough all around. It was also used for some yard work by a friend of mine. I didn't think to send the sheath: the previous owner had tried to customize it, I think. It protects the blade during transport, but doesn't really work for much else.

I really like what you've done with the handle, Sam. The sheath looks great, too- how are you liking working with kydex?


John
 
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Oh, I see, well thank you anyway! I have a little understanding of what it takes to keep a forum on the straight and narrow, so my hat is off to you!

That picture looks MORE like what I received, but is still much too nice. Very nice finish as well. My buffing capability is not up to producing that mirror sheen just yet.
 
Beautiful work! I love Bocote. I'll have to disagree just a bit on the heat treat. I had a Munk chunk and sold it, and it was hardened well along most of it's length. I also have a couple of HI Bowies that are well hardened. Most khukuries that I've etched are indeed hardened for 3-4 inches along the sweet spot, but then a bit on the tip as well. That's a good amount, and the tip really can't be dead soft.

The spine should be soft, that's as designed, and the area by the ricasso / cho, OK, but the rest of the blade should be pretty much hard, and that has always been a pet peeve of mine. The blade is hot, the kami has the teapot in hand, just hit the whole edge! I don't understand why so many of the smaller knives used to be only partially hardened, and you have one of those in a mid-sized version it looks like.

Still, for what this blade is to be used for, 90% of the cutting will be on the sweet spot so you should be fine. I really like what you've done with the handle, it is very attractive and functional. On my AKB's and MC though I always thought the handles were good, but agree this is a smoother more functional look, and the kydex and teklok is a wonderful addition.

Thanks very much for sharing! :thumbup:

Regards,

Norm
 
Yeah, they're good folk.

I went back and found the email describing this piece. It was one of the original prototypes, and the handle was very chunky. The owner ground down the handle to fit his hand, and (while on the work bench?) some leather dye spilled onto the handle and soaked in. It was used hard for all types of stuff, good honest work, before I got it. Also, the original sheath was lost, not "customized" as I misremembered.

(edit) Sam, could you either measure the Chunk, or post a quick pic next to your Spyderco for scale? Doesn't have to be as nice as these pics, just to get an idea of the size.
 
Here is the Munk Chunk next to my first real knife.

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Up top is the Spyderco and above that is a Gerber Evo I got for $3. :)

Total length of the M.C. is right at 14-1/2".
 
Svashtar said:
Beautiful work! I love Bocote. I'll have to disagree just a bit on the heat treat. I had a Munk chunk and sold it, and it was hardened well along most of it's length. I also have a couple of HI Bowies that are well hardened. Most khukuries that I've etched are indeed hardened for 3-4 inches along the sweet spot, but then a bit on the tip as well. That's a good amount, and the tip really can't be dead soft.

The spine should be soft, that's as designed, and the area by the ricasso / cho, OK, but the rest of the blade should be pretty much hard, and that has always been a pet peeve of mine. The blade is hot, the kami has the teapot in hand, just hit the whole edge! I don't understand why so many of the smaller knives used to be only partially hardened, and you have one of those in a mid-sized version it looks like.

Still, for what this blade is to be used for, 90% of the cutting will be on the sweet spot so you should be fine. I really like what you've done with the handle, it is very attractive and functional. On my AKB's and MC though I always thought the handles were good, but agree this is a smoother more functional look, and the kydex and teklok is a wonderful addition.

Thanks very much for sharing! :thumbup:

Regards,

Norm
Click to expand...

As there are slight variations in the execution of the basic designs, there are also probably variations in the heat treating of the blades. That is kind of the beauty and curse of making khukuri. Like Chefs, each Kami brings his own flavor to the forge.
 
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