Cutting 1095

Leu Custom said:
is the 1095 Hot rolled or Cold rolled? Doesn't that make a difference on ease of cutting?
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Cold rolled or CRA is anneal
Hot rolled is somewhat harden because it's been heated up and retains about 50 percent. This is what I call half hardened. But some folks may debate that. I have tested some on the harden test and found that to be true. The percentage will very from steel to steel and from the roll it came off of. And when you cut it on the bandsaw you will see what I am talking about. You will change the blade more or perhaps either destroyed the hardness of the saw blade. I hope this was of help. :)
 
Making the assumption that this is a real question; I believe that you are doing like me. Over thinking the problem. Sometimes you must go on with a project and act as if you know what you are doing.
When I started this venture I had to make 6 broad swords in 2 or 3 weeks. With nothing but pictures and my 4" side grinder I completed the project. These were for theatre you know, all they had to do was look right and be able to be bashed against each other on stage.
The point is that a $10. sidegrinder and various cutting, grinding and sanding attachments it is possible to make a knife like object. You will get better at the finer points as you go along.
Just IMHO,
Lynn
 
Thanks for all the replies, everyone. I do have a high-tension hacksaw--a good one. It was the blades that were bad. Home Depot has two types of blades: One brand with nice, slick packaging (the ones I was using) and another brand in really nondescript packaging (Lennox). The nondescript ones cut right through my steel. :) I was able to hack off a few pieces to rough out the blade, and I'm on to grinding now. :)

Josh
 
Good going there! I like the Lenox blades too. They outlast Sterett blades. I have a "Hi-tension" frame too, and find that it doesnt have enough tension quite, I wonder if Brownells has a really good one? Hacksawing can be slow for production work, but its a technique that works. I have done all sorts of stuff cutting relatively large sections of steel and angle iron. You get better and faster with practice.
 
How tight should I try to get the blade? I'm finding that the blade wants to wobble and flex a bit. Maybe I'm just being too aggressive.

I have a Proto hacksaw; I'm told that's a good brand.

I won't be going into production work any time soon, so I think this'll keep me for a while. :)

Josh
 
There's a story, one of those "grandpaw" stories.

I was young and dumb and didn't know it, and for one reason or another we had a pile of steel pipe to cut. My grandfather gave me the basic lecture- 40 strokes per minute, 0 pull pressure, blade should sing but not bind.

I was all full of juice and went at it hard and fast, probably closer to 80-90 spm, bearing down push and pull.

yknow what? my grandfather cut twice as much as i did in the same amount of time, without burning up a blade.
 
Welcome to knifemaking Josh!

The material characteristics determine what you need to cut the steel, the thickness of the steel just dictates how long its going to take (more material needs to be removed on a thick piece) .

1. If your piece is fully annealled then you theoretically should be able to hack through it with a normal hacksaw made for mild steel. Getting better quality blades and a higher tension will make things a lot easier though. Lubrication is also a good idea.

2. If your piece is not annealed and even if it is a hardened piece (unlikely), your chances of getting through it with a hacksaw are small. In such a case you could use an angle grinder which will get the job done quite quickly. Using an electric jigsaw will be as ineffective as a hacksaw. Annealing the piece in any case would be a good idea, as you have to file and sand the piece later on anyway. It will make these processes considerably easier if the piece is fully annealed.

Good luck

Lang
 
i've been using the norton 1/16 cutoff wheels from home depot- are the HF version worth it? they sure are cheap!
 
koyote said:
i've been using the norton 1/16 cutoff wheels from home depot- are the HF version worth it? they sure are cheap!
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They're OK. I can usually get 2-3 blanks cut out with one and if you watch their sales you can get 10 for $3.99.
 
I have a cheapo Chicago Electric angle grinder. On the first day of use, it quit turning on until you knocked against the side w/ a block or something. I took the brushes out, and lubed the channel and the side of the brushes w/ some graphite lock spray. It has been working fine ever since. I mention this in case any one else has similiar problems.
 
I understand some are on a low budget, but often buying cheap and nasty tools just doesnt benefit you in the long run. Unless you making knives 24/7 you dont need the industrial tools, but for others, the mid range quality tools are a better option.
 
As METE' said. Full spheroidized anneal!! I have never gotten a piece of 1095 that was.
 
langchop said:
I understand some are on a low budget, but often buying cheap and nasty tools just doesnt benefit you in the long run. Unless you making knives 24/7 you dont need the industrial tools, but for others, the mid range quality tools are a better option.
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i started out with some super el cheapo gear, and it depends on what it is- I've replaced about half of it with better stuff, but some things work out okay (like the HF drill press)

i actually have a good angle grinder, it's the cutting discs i wonder about. those can get pretty pricey.
 
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