Cutting a burl Block

Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
7,951
So I got the block of redwood burl that Farmer Phil won and passed on to me and its much bigger then I thought it was. It measures out at 6 1/8X 6 1/8 X 3 3/8 inches, there are 2 small flaws at one corner of the block measuring 1X1X3 7/8". The flaw is at the oppisite end of the pattern that I really like. I am just wondering how to cut this up for handles, no hiden tangs here all of my current designs are full tang.
So how should I lay out my cut lines on the block to maximize the usable wood? It can be seen here
 
Unky i made a mistake cutting a teak burl once. what i did is cut blocks going right down into. aA forum member took notice and explained why i got the swirly patterns instead of the burl sides, so if im correct you want to cut it as if you were taking a horizontal slice off the top. ofcourse you can manipulate the block to cut straight down as long as your cutting with the burl not against it--does that make any sense?? can someone who is better at explaining this chime in.--thanks marek
 
I'd figure out what orientation you want the main faces on and slab it that way. I usually cut 1"ish slabs because it gives me a lot of layout freedom. It's hard to say more without at least some photos.
 
Yup I am truely confussed now:confused: think I will have to put the piece back in the box and leave it there before I screw it up:p
 
I'd figure out what orientation you want the main faces on and slab it that way. I usually cut 1"ish slabs because it gives me a lot of layout freedom. It's hard to say more without at least some photos.

I am a little busy tonight getting ready for a hiking trip, but I will take some tomorrow when I get home and post up the 4 sides
 
Yes someone please explain this. I have the other block of burl that was won and I was considering doing the same thing at some point.
 
It is real tempting to look at the size of a piece and try to cut it in a way that will yield the most handles. Be strong and resist the temptation. Which would you prefer? a few that look ok or 1 or 2 that look awesome.

Take a few minutes and look at all the surfaces of the block.
Decide which surface looks the best to you. That will be the face (outer surface) of your handle.

I prefer to cut the piece into handle blocks and then split them into scales afterwards. Just my 2 cents worth. I hope it helps.
 
Ok I jumped on this before heading to bed here are the pics
side 1
side1.jpg

side2
side2.jpg

side 3
side3.jpg

side 4
side4.jpg

side 5
side5.jpg

side 6
side6.jpg



My thoughts were to start at side 3 slicing off .5" slabs till I got about 1.5" from the other end with the flaws in it and then cut up to the flaws from side 6 till I got to the flaws. I could then cuth the 3"x6"x.5" pieces in half making 2 1.5"x6"x.5" scales.
This would all depend on what was inside the block, but I am open to suggestions on how to handle this, but I really want a slice off of side 3 I really like the look of tht pattern
 
Good choice keeping side three and slabbing from there.

I would personally cut off ~1" thick slabs because that's what I use on fixed blades (and it will make 4 folder scales). Leave the slabs whole. You can cut the handles out for each specific knife and minimize waste (nest the handles and use a bandsaw or coping saw). You would waste material if you used a 3"x6" block on a small fixed blade. You will also be able to position the handles on the slab to maximize appearance.

Phillip
 
Good choice keeping side three and slabbing from there.

I would personally cut off ~1" thick slabs because that's what I use on fixed blades (and it will make 4 folder scales). Leave the slabs whole. You can cut the handles out for each specific knife and minimize waste (nest the handles and use a bandsaw or coping saw). You would waste material if you used a 3"x6" block on a small fixed blade. You will also be able to position the handles on the slab to maximize appearance.

Phillip

Are you sure about the 1" thickness? I am only going to do full tang knives for the first bit. Guess I could go that way to get it cut down, and just split them as I need them. that way if I do go with a hiden tang i would have the wood there to use.
 
My handles usually run from 3/4" to 1" in finished thickness. A 1" blank will make a pretty comfortable fixed blade handle when using thin (1/8") blade stock. I usually slab these on the tablesaw, so assuming the kerf is the same as the tang, I just start with the proper thickness handle blank. If using thicker blade stock, the handle blank can be thinner.

A good compromise is to cut a few slabs at varying thicknesses. That way you have a slab thick enough for that flared-butt chopper, but you don't have to waste material on a slim handled EDC.
 
My handles usually run from 3/4" to 1" in finished thickness. A 1" blank will make a pretty comfortable fixed blade handle when using thin (1/8") blade stock. I usually slab these on the tablesaw, so assuming the kerf is the same as the tang, I just start with the proper thickness handle blank. If using thicker blade stock, the handle blank can be thinner.

A good compromise is to cut a few slabs at varying thicknesses. That way you have a slab thick enough for that flared-butt chopper, but you don't have to waste material on a slim handled EDC.
Ok makes scense to me now. I just layed out my knive template on the block end and when nested I can get two on it with out a problem. What do you think about only cutting off one slab at a time and sealing the block back up till needed again? I dont have the tooling to cut the block myself, but I have a friend at work who has a wood working shop at home that is willing to do it for me. He and his son (a machinist) made my file jig for me.
 
Another thing that is real important in handle work is to have the set of scales as matched as possible. If the pattern is very tight and intense, sometimes you can get away with cutting two scales side by side on a slab, but for a truly professional look, you need to cut the scales from a single block and have them be a matched set. Once the block is split, you then decide whether to book-match the scales of use them exactly as cut.

If using as cut, mark them so they go on the tang just as cut.....with all grain and patterns continuing as if the tang wasn't there. This is used for woods with a strong grain or a directional pattern. Curly maple,and most hardwoods often look best this way.

If book matching, lay the cut block on the table and roll the scales flat as if you were opening a book....so the cut through the block is face up and the patterns shown are a left and right mirror image of each other. Now, rotate the scales so that these surfaces are the outside of the handle when assembled. That way the two sides will be a fairly close match for the pattern. This is used when the pattern is bold, as in Desert Ironwood or a flame pattern. Most burls do best with book matched scales.

On wood with an angular pattern or grain, sometimes you can get a very stunning effect by flipping one of the scales. If the grain or pattern runs diagonally across the top of the handle block, turn one scale inside out and the pattern will become herringbone. The angles of the grain/pattern will form "V" shapes down the handle top. It looks a lot different when the handle is ground into a curve, but the look of the two placed together as scales will tell you if this will work for your set of scales. I deliberately cut some woods at an angle to the grain to get blocks that will make herringbone. Woods that have a wide grain, stripes,or linear patterns do great like this. I cut black palm and macadamia at 30 degrees to the grain and get a stunning effect when one is flipped. Wenge, persimmon, zebrawood, etc. work well treated this way. Others that can yield some surprising effects are lace wood, leopard wood,she-oak,black/red palm,and other woods that have round or speckled pattern . When cut on the diagonal to the grain the spots change shape into ovals or sometimes hearts. When black palm is done like this it looks just like fish scales.

The other reason to sometimes cut on the diagonal is that you can get a longer handle from a slightly short board or block. Lets assume you have a block of burl cut 2X4X12Problem is that the really great end grain burl effect is on the 4" end. If you cut it into a stack of 2X4X1" blocks they would only work for shorter handles. If you cut it into a bunch of 2X6X1 blocks, you don't get the great burl pattern. What to do??? Cut the block at an angle that will allow you to get 5" long cuts from end grain burl. There will be a bit of waste in the first and last wedge shaped piece, but these can find uses for other projects.

Hope this helps,
Stacy
 
OK I think I have it now. Too bad that no matter what I do there is going to be some waste :(. I truely love the look of natural wood and thats what makes it so hard to let any go to waste, but I should be able to make some nice bolsters out of some of the end pieces and match them up to some micarta scales. I have no problem wasting synsetics though.
 
OK I think I have it now. Too bad that no matter what I do there is going to be some waste

Just never throw out your scraps. they all come in handy eventually. I have many boxes of sorted scrapwood. It's amazing how often you need just a sliver of something.
 
One last question on this, and maybe Marekz could chime in here. How would I know if the wood is stablized, do I need to if it isn't, if so how would I go about it?
Ok so its more then one question, So why not one more, What about the wax coating on the block, leave it there and replace it as I cut?
 
Put a hot needle to the wood. If it smells like resin, it's stabilized. If it smells like burning redwood, it's not. (It's really distinctive, even if I'm not explaining it correctly.)

If there's wax on the block, it's probably not stabilized. When I'm being smart, I'll let waxed blocks equalize for a few months after I have them shipped here. Most of my stuff is from Oregon and it's a lot less humid here in Montana. Assuming it was dry when it left the warehouse, it should only take a few months to equalize to my climate. Going back to a wetter climate is not as much of a problem.

Before cutting, I scrape the excess wax off so it doesn't gunk up my equipment. I don't put any more wax on after I cut. Hopefully the burl is properly dry by that time and there won't be issues.

Phillip
 
Back
Top