Cutting board that will not dull an edge?

[Pensacola Tiger]

Avoid boards made from teak. Teak contains silica which is highly abrasive to your knife edges.

The best woods are maple, cherry and walnut.

Rick

 

[pnsxyr]

Avoid boards made from teak. Teak contains silica which is highly abrasive to your knife edges.

The best woods are maple, cherry and walnut.

Rick

The outcome really depends...blunting is much more of a concern if certain bonders like epoxy resin is used. Fine end grain and long grain teak cutting boards are among some of the finest made...mind you, they still are not as good as maple, but teak is often less expensive. If the cook is using certain methods in which the edge will see harder/faster impact with the board with substantial force to damage the blade, IMO grained maple is the best way to go. With lower end boards and bamboo, resigns are going to be commonplace...especially if the board is too thin to be refinished on a regular basis via sanding/sealing.
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/equipment/overview.asp?docid=31381

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

The outcome really depends...blunting is much more of a concern if certain bonders like epoxy resin is used. Fine end grain and long grain teak cutting boards are among some of the finest made...mind you, they still are not as good as maple, but teak is often less expensive. If the cook is using certain methods in which the edge will see harder/faster impact with the board with substantial force to damage the blade, IMO grained maple is the best way to go. With lower end boards and bamboo, resigns are going to be commonplace...especially if the board is too thin to be refinished on a regular basis via sanding/sealing.
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/equipment/overview.asp?docid=31381

Yes, it depends on whether you want to dull your edges on teak or keep them sharp on other woods.

Now, I speak from actual experience. I have end grain maple, cherry and walnut for my cutting tasks (and a Sani-TUFF for raw meats and fish), and the choice is based on years of use. I've used edge and end grain bamboo and teak, edge grain maple and even anti-microbial plastic and all are long gone with the exception of one teak board relegated to serving, a task for which it is admirably suited (it's a very beautifully made board and was a wedding present).

I stand by my assertion about teak boards.

Rick

 

[palmerdl]

Nothing to do with edge preservation, but an interesting study on wood vs plastic. I've seen it before, and probably many of you have, also. From a PhD at U.C. Davis.
http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm

 

[pnsxyr]

Yes, it depends on whether you want to dull your edges on teak or keep them sharp on other woods.

Now, I speak from actual experience. I have end grain maple, cherry and walnut for my cutting tasks (and a Sani-TUFF for raw meats and fish), and the choice is based on years of use. I've used edge and end grain bamboo and teak, edge grain maple and even anti-microbial plastic and all are long gone with the exception of one teak board relegated to serving, a task for which it is admirably suited (it's a very beautifully made board and was a wedding present).

I stand by my assertion about teak boards.

Rick

My experience hasn't really been the same...perhaps I do not use the knives enough to see such a difference. Most of my cuts are also using rocking motions (rather than the correct motions) and so I suppose that could impact my outcome as well.

If money was of no option, I'd have a massive end grain maple butcher block with a combination of cherry and walnut accents with a custom ring groove. However, the size I would prefer would be quite expensive...I have a reasonably nice maple board, but it's small. It seems end and face grain really jumps in price once you get past the 16x11 inch size for whatever reason...