Cutting Nail Nick on Folder

Beautiful nicks!!
Don, do you use a jeweler saw free hands for the threads?

Dressing a wheel (woven abrasive cutoff, cratex...whatever) means to modify its profile. I dress mine spinning it at 45-50° against the belt grinder (use old 40 grit, don't spoil a new one).
That way the profile of the wheel become a taper (a truncated cone) and the relative cut has a straight top and a curved bottom as required for a nail nick. It pays having more than one wheel to make up for the natural blunting you get while cutting....you could re-dress the same one but the diameter will change and you should guide the wheel accordingly. In the last step i blend/refine the cut to my satisfaction.

Doing this hand work it is better light touching only at fast spinning and avoiding start/stop while in contact with the blade; this lessens the chances of grabbing the workpiece by the wheel.
 
Stezann, I usually use round and three square files for the threads on the bolsters, but I have used a jeweler's saw also,. Thanks!
 
Ok tried for three hours last night with different techniques, using dremel cut off wheels with ok results.
First attempt in drill press at highest speed, ok but not consistent
Plus just a straight slot.
Second attempt freehand with cut off wheel, ok again and was able to put a small taper under the slot like a true nail nick.
Problem is it got a little to big, after trying to sand it out clean.
Third attempt with grinding wheel at angle, but no controll.

This morning I picked up some thin grinding wheels from dremel.
Going to try and taper them and give it a shot this weekend.

I've got everything on order to build my first slip joint and I have to get this to look right.
Without a mill
 
Using a Dremel is an acquired art. It requires much experience to get right.
Here is a tip: always rest the hand holding the tool against something. Even resting your thumb on something helps control the tool.
Most people use rotary tools at high speed. This makes them extremely hard to control on metals. Use them at the lowest speed possible.
You can make a rotary tool much more precise and controllable by plugging it into a foot rheostat-like a sewing machine foot pedal.
 
I haven't done a slip joint in a long time, but when I last did one I didn't have a mill. I used a drill press and a grinding stone/spindle I dressed to about 45 deg. angle and a small vise to hold the blade. The vise floated free, I just guided the clamped blade into the stone, it was slow going but made a nice nick.
 
Will52100 said:
I haven't done a slip joint in a long time, but when I last did one I didn't have a mill. I used a drill press and a grinding stone/spindle I dressed to about 45 deg. angle and a small vise to hold the blade. The vise floated free, I just guided the clamped blade into the stone, it was slow going but made a nice nick.
Click to expand...


Would you happen to have a pic of your stone and nick ?
 
I'm thinking of trying to refine the edge of something like this. If I could find a bigger diameter.
 
Thanks- what I obviously need to do is practice more on some scrap metal. Thanks again- appreciate it. I'm not too good at posting photos but when I'm done I'll try. I don't know if there are many guys trying to replicate 1800-1840 folders but I like muzzle loading firearms so recreating folders from the same era became an interest. The one I did previous was a lock back. A lot of folks think locking blades started with Buck's Model 110. The lock backs from the 1800-1820 era used a mid length rocker and it had a button sticking up above the liner. The spring was similar to a slip joint but cut off about half way and bears up against the button.
 
Don: You did a great job inletting the shield- I'm looking around for a two legged parser- once again to recreate the older methods. I was going to engrave the bolsters but again- I have to work on my skills so I did some file work that is okay.
I started making fixed blades many years ago- first hunting knives, then filet, butcher, Indian trade knives, Bowies, Toothpicks- I sort of got burned out. The folders are a whole new world- I can use mother of pearl scales, engrave bolsters, all sorts of things- change is good.
On the current project. I'm not sure how many of you are familiar with a staked pin. You drill a blind hole on the inside of the bolster. Say 1/16" (actually I used a slightly smaller wire drill. Then the 1/16" pin material. You use a punch to dimple around the pin. I used the pointed end of a needle file. The dimples move bolster material against the pin. It holds the pin in place. You then run the pin through a hole in the liner and "rivet" it in place.
 
Sly, I actually use a parser plate and matching shield, both from a water jet place http://leadingedgefab.com/knife-makers. The plate is clamped on the scale and a small endmill is used to cut the scale out with the plate being the guide or template. I do this on a drill press, free-handing the vise. The two legged parser would be the old traditional way, but you still need the plate.

Change is good! I make all types of knives & damascus, when I get burnt out on one type, I go to another, or just forge steel for awhile.

I've used the blind or staked pin method many times attaching bolsters. But usually solder or screw bolsters on slip joints.

Good stuff man!
 
This thread is becoming a nice island in the knifemaking sea.
Taximanny, you could try stacking 2 cutoff disk and dress them as one if you want a thicker wheeel and a nice diameter.

Another tip for millless fellows: i use the cratex wheels to relieve the liners. It blends nicely and it doesn't require to dig a deep clearance to effectively protect the tang from scratches. It is a bit slow on ss liners, but the end result is neat as you can't see the relieving, nor the scratches!
 
SlyOne said:
Don: You did a great job inletting the shield- I'm looking around for a two legged parser- once again to recreate the older methods. I was going to engrave the bolsters but again- I have to work on my skills so I did some file work that is okay.
I started making fixed blades many years ago- first hunting knives, then filet, butcher, Indian trade knives, Bowies, Toothpicks- I sort of got burned out. The folders are a whole new world- I can use mother of pearl scales, engrave bolsters, all sorts of things- change is good.
On the current project. I'm not sure how many of you are familiar with a staked pin. You drill a blind hole on the inside of the bolster. Say 1/16" (actually I used a slightly smaller wire drill. Then the 1/16" pin material. You use a punch to dimple around the pin. I used the pointed end of a needle file. The dimples move bolster material against the pin. It holds the pin in place. You then run the pin through a hole in the liner and "rivet" it in place.
Click to expand...

I would just hard solder the pin in place in the bolster. It's more secure.
 
I'll see if I still have the stone, probably do since I don't throw anything away. It was basically a shafted gray grinding stone about 1 1/2" dia. by about 3/8" thick. If I remember rite it was one of those grinding stones you see in auto parts store in a bin, something like 1.99$ each or so. I chucked it up in a drill and dressed it against a concrete block to about 45 deg. I would put the initial nick in with a fiber disk on a dremel mandrel in the drill press and pretty it up with the stone.

Main thing is there's always a way. Now days if I wanted to do a nail nick I'd use a fly cutter in the mill. If I didn't have the mill I'd probably use the vise and drill press, maybe 2-3 fiber cut off wheels dressed at an angle in the drill press.
 
Don, up today i've always made pins flush with the scales, but i'd love having the pins like you did in that stag knife.
Do you have some tip to share how to dress the domes so clean without ruin the stag and without the awful burrs we usually see with spun pins?
 
Stezann, I spin the pins in a drill press and lightly finish them off with a scotch bright wheel, then buff. I use the corner of the scotch bright wheel and try to hit the pin from all angles.. The head spinner is one I bought from one of the knife making supply places, but have reshaped it to where it makes less contact with the handle material. It's not a very precise way of doing it, but it's quick and I like the results.
 
well, the results speak for themselves!! Thank you, i'll make pratice before attempting :thumbup:
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I would just hard solder the pin in place in the bolster. It's more secure.
Click to expand...
I agree- the whole "thing" I'm on right now is trying out traditional methods. A couple of guys are making their own shear, blister, and cast steel. Geez, will I ever get that crazy?
I really don't know what "Chopped" rivets are. One guy said the bolster was formed with integral tabs or "rivets" sticking out but that seems wrong- Sheffield in the 1800-1830's was interested in making things fast and easy. I was told nothing in those days was soldered. Well- I did the staked pin. Before I trimmed the pin down I put it on a vise grip and hung a barbell plate= I thought it was 10lbs. but it could have been 5 lbs.- it held. I figured once the blade rivet is installed- that also adds to the strength so I was good to go.
The only problem.....when I was a kid I had a Boy Scout knife that I tore apart to figure how it was made- there was the stub on the inside of the bolster but no peen marks so it wasn't staked- probably hard soldered or brazed.
I've made up some "Cutler's Rosin"- the formula given me was pine sap and ground up charcoal and you boil the stuff. Dried rock hard. It was used as a filled between stick tangs and handles- or so I am told.
I wonder if today's youngster still tears stuff apart to see how it is made?
 
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