Cutting out blade blanks

I use a DeWalt offset grinder with metal cutoff disks. It will get the blanks 90% into shape-with just a few broad corners to smooth out on the belt grinder.
 
FWIW, One of those high tension hacksaws ($25), top quality bi-metal blade, a good vice and I can almost out run my Harbor Freight band saw. It is no comparison to a regular hacksaw: it's fast and cuts straight.


Steve
 
I also have the Harbor Freight bandsaw. It's a great machine. Yes, you need a good bi-metal blade (I get mine from Grizzly) but, it's a joy to work with. I also love the fact that I can use the horizontal cut to chop out hardware material (brass, N-S, etc.) and walk away to do other things. It's like having a (very part) time helper.
 
I have the HF too. Put a good blade one it and you're good to go.
I cought it on sale too @ $139, and hit them when they were in one of their "free shipping" moods.
Good deal.
I've had it about 2 years now, and if it were to break tomorrow, I'd get another one just like it.
 
With a hammer and anvil! ;)

Seriously though, on stock removal blades, I use a Jet bandsaw followed by the grinder. I'm with Mike, I can simply grind the profile out of barstock faster, but it causes a TREMENDOUS amount of extra dust.

A good Lenox or Starrett blade with the right speed and the right touch (USE A GOOD PUSH STICK!!!) will really cut blade steel very well.

My push-stick is a heavy "bar" of canvas micarta with a V cut-out on one end and a ledge on the other. It really makes a big difference for getting the pressure in the right place for cutting. Not to mention saving FINGERS (take it from a guy that split his ring finger down the center on a band-saw).

Nick
 
I either use an electric hacksaw or a metal hand saw. I HATE cutting blade blanks...:rolleyes:
I have no room left for a bandsaw :(
 
This is picture of Makita portaband with stop removed and replaced with 1/4" thick steel table top. Pawn shop price was $150...new probably $275. Wolf brand bimetal blades from MSC are $5. Number of cutouts per saw blade is function of steel type, thickness, knife blade size, etc., but I average 10-15 small/medium knives per. Used bandsaw blades are still good for roughing out G10 and Micarta.
 

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Here is a picture of my bandsaw that everyone is talking about, I took the legs off of it and attached it to my workbench to make more room in the shop and replace the table with a nice thick aluminum plate and of course, lennox bi-metal blade. I have had mine for over 4 years and it is still running strong.:)
 
I guess I go over the HF store and check out their bandsaw. I'll see if I can't talk them into getting me one for their sale price. :D
 
I have a Delta 8 speed 14" band saw. I like it, but use it more for ripping damascus billets lengthwise when doing multibar billets. I have profiled a few blades with it, but most of the time I grind the profile. Grinding for me is faster and I like to make a mess.:D Plus I think it is easier to sweep/vacuum up the dust than to clean up the band saw.

Either way you profile, a bandsaw has to be one of the most versitile tools in the shop.
 
I've got the HF bandsaw too. And, on rare occasions, I can coax my 17 year old son into cutting a blade or 2 for me :D
 
Well, after reading this thread and seeing how Gene had his porta-bandsaw set up, I finally got motivated to head out to the shop and see what it would take to set my Milwaukee porta-band up as a dedicated bandsaw. I've already got a HF hor/vert bandsaw, but even though it's the standard used by almost everyone I know, I've really never liked it that much. Don't get me wrong, it's a good saw for the money once you put a Bi-metal blade on it, but I've never really thought of it as a great saw...I guess I got spoiled years ago when I worked in a machine shop and had access to a real upright metal cutting saw. Anyway, while trying to figure out how I would build a stand for it, I thought I'd just clamp it in my vise and give it a whirl. Oh My God, this thing rocks! It cuts through 1/4" stock like it's butter! I mean, it cuts F.A.S.T...This is way better than my HF bandsaw ever cut. I laid into the thing as hard as I could...no blade popping off like the HF saw does when you really hog on it. I am seriously impressed. And the really cool thing is that I don't think I'm going to build a stand for it at all now, it's rock solid clamped in the vise...I'll just glue some leather pads on at the point where I clamp to it. I'm just going to install some hooks in the wall next to my vise and hang the porta-band on the hooks and when I want to use it, just pull it off and clamp it in the vise and go to work. I'll build a table for it like Gene has in his picture, but that's all it needs to have done to it, then if I ever need to use it as a porta-band again, just swap out the table for the stock part and it's ready to go. Another plus, is that when it's clamped in the vise, it's at the perfect height for my shop stool. So anyway, I'm finished with the HF saw as a bandsaw, I'm going to just convert it into a dedicated horizontal saw like here:

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/projects/sawstand/sawstand.html

Now, I don't know how well this saw works:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38344

but if it's a decent enough porta-band, it might be a good alternative for those looking for their first bandsaw, especially since these have such a small shop footprint compared to the HF hor/vert saws, and at least my Milwaukee porta-band seems to cut much much better than any HF hor/vert saw I've used. I know the Milwaukee I have was close to $300, but if this HF brand porta-band is decent enough, I'd say it may be a better alternative than the HF hor/vert saw. Anyway, just food for thought! :)

-Darren
 
Burch
I use a Jet vertical bandsaw, model VBS-1408. I love this saw!! In the past I have ground blades to shape, used a hacksaw, and even a homemade metalsaw using a sears bandsaw with a gear splitter to slow the speed down. The Jet just makes it so easy.

I use a Sterrett bimetal 1/4" blade. This won't take as much pressure as a wider blade but I can follow the lines of the blade blank much easier(tighter turning radius). I usually try to cut within 1/16-1/32" of my scribed line as I hate grinding blade blanks.

Tom
 
Ok. I have to ask.

Has anyone ever used the laser-cutting service? (can't remember the company name) How expensive is it?

I know it's not the same as "doing it yourself", but I'm curious anyway.

Dan
 
I don't know about having someone like toolanddie.com laser cut a blade before sending it, but I asked a professional plasma cutting guy and he said it would cost anywhere from 10-20, depending on blade.
 
Originally posted by Darren Ellis
I've already got a HF hor/vert bandsaw, but even though it's the standard used by almost everyone I know, I've really never liked it that much. Don't get me wrong, it's a good saw for the money once you put a Bi-metal blade on it, but I've never really thought of it as a great saw...I guess I got spoiled years ago when I worked in a machine shop and had access to a real upright metal cutting saw. Anyway, while trying to figure out how I would build a stand for it, I thought I'd just clamp it in my vise and give it a whirl. Oh My God, this thing rocks! It cuts through 1/4" stock like it's butter! I mean, it cuts F.A.S.T...This is way better than my HF bandsaw ever cut. I laid into the thing as hard as I could...no blade popping off like the HF saw does when you really hog on it. -Darren
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Darren, these saws are just a couple of wheels with blades on them. If everything is equal, like speed etc., and the HF is setup so the blade won't pop off, it can only be the blade on the Milwaukee that is helping it cut better.
Try getting a good Lennox blade with the same tooth pattern as the Milwaukee, for the HF, I think it would make a difference.

The blade on mine used to pop off all the time, and when I opened it up and looked at it running, it seemed adjusted properly. One day out of frustration, I readjusted it with a little more tilt to the top wheel. My blade hasn't popped off for a long time.
 
Dan
There are many business that will laser and water-jet cut blades. There are also many variables that affect pricing. Some of those variables are size of knife, thickness of steel, type of steel, speed of cut, and quantity of blades to name just a few.

I personally do not use laser or water-jet at this time so I am unable to give specifics. Nothing against using these I just happen to have more time than money at present time.
 
Originally posted by Mike Hull
Darren, these saws are just a couple of wheels with blades on them. If everything is equal, like speed etc., and the HF is setup so the blade won't pop off, it can only be the blade on the Milwaukee that is helping it cut better.
Try getting a good Lennox blade with the same tooth pattern as the Milwaukee, for the HF, I think it would make a difference.

The blade on mine used to pop off all the time, and when I opened it up and looked at it running, it seemed adjusted properly. One day out of frustration, I readjusted it with a little more tilt to the top wheel. My blade hasn't popped off for a long time.
Click to expand...


Hi Mike, I do understand the "physics" of cutting:

http://resume.darrenellis.com/

:) :D :D :)

You're exactly right though, I guess in my excitement of how well it worked I got a little ahead of myself! I guess one of the things I really like about this little saw is how small of a footprint it takes up and I can literally hang it on the wall when not in use. Now I can get that HF hor/vert saw out of my grinding area and free up a little more space. I've got a Bi-metal blade on the HF hor/vert saw, but even with that and having adjusted the upper wheel out it still pops off too frequently for my liking. Maybe mine was made on a Monday by the forced prison labor workforce they use over there. :)

:D

-Darren
 
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