Cutting Out Blade

L

longrange

Joined
Jan 18, 2000
Messages
16
What's the preferred method for cutting out the outline of the blade once it's scribed onto the stock. Is it just hogged away with the grinder? Can it be cut out by local machine shops using water saw, plasma table or laser cutters? If so, what should I expect to pay to have the outline cut out? Doing this by hand with a hacksaw sounds like a little too much work.
 
Having a metal cutting bandsaw is the way to go. Local machine shops can do it for you too. Water jets cutters will get you a really precise cutout if they use it right.
I don't have a machine shop near me or a metal cutting bandsaw.I use a rotozip tool wit a fiberglass cutoff wheel. This burns the steel like crazy, so you should only cut a little at a time and then cool it off. And you have to cut it out good and wide of your line so you can grind away the steel thats been burned. Its good for taking off the big chunks quick, and cutting barstock to length. I use a file and a hacksaw for the really delicate cuts.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
if your gonna use a metal bandsaw, just make sure you can lower the speed enough.

[This message has been edited by magnum .44 (edited 01-22-2000).]
 
I use a bi-metal blade on a low end Grizzly saw. I thought that Cruwear was tough in the annealed state until a came across 440V! You have to take it real slow.

C Wilkins
 
what these guys are telling you is they rough cut with a band saw, and then grind out the outline...so the knife is ground out. i try to buy steel in sizes that is close to my finish size...like one inch wide, 1.25 wide..etc....chop it to length, any way you can..chop saw, abrasive wheel on a grinder....and grind away...you do not need a metal cutting bandsaw...it is a luxury that i never had for almost 10 years.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
If cutting out the blank with a hacksaw is to much work you better think twice about making knives. Thats how you start and then try to find better ways to go.You can get the 1075-95 steels in many different sizes and they are low cost.A hacksaw works pretty good on them.
Good Luck
TJ Smith
 
Hacksaw, so thats what those are for!! My first 10-20 blades were cut out using the ole drill a thousand holes close to each other and the pattern lines technique. Man did I go through some drill bits.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37151


Longrange, check out this web page. It's harbor freight's $139 metal cutting bandsaw, that includes the shipping. I know, it's made in China, but then 90% of everything sold in this country, including Delta brand tools, are made there too. For the price, if you get a year out it it will pay for itself 10 times over. I have one and it cuts just fine with bimetal blades. I know $140 is alot of money, but when you figure you can get that for one of your knives, it's nothing. Take care! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"

 

I use a jewellers saw for mine, I can cut intricatedly with it, half-circles, curves, etc. Hard on the wrist after a while though
smile.gif


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KSwinamer
 
TJ, I'm not afraid of hard work, but with a full time job, family etc. I would rather spend my limited free time grinding and finishing a blade than spend it trying to rough out a blank. If there is a quicker way to get that out of the way and get to the grinding, then I want to learn about it. Ken
 
I agree with L6 and others. My cheap <$200 metal cutting bandsaw has cut out a lot of blades (certainly many hundreds) and keeps on ticking. I buy Bimetal blades from Enco for about $13 each, and cut stock up to 1/4" with little trouble. Final shaping in tight areas is with a small wheel on my Wilton grinder. Otherwise it is smoothed out on a large wheel.

There are many more uses this saw sees besides cutting out blades. I cut bolster stock, pins & thong hole liners, nickel silver sheet for inlays and liners, handle materials, etc. Hard to beat in my book.

Most shops that have laser or water cutting capabilities expect to cut a reasonably large number of blades in one lot. I think you'll find that lot costs about the same as L6's bandsaw.

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Jerry Hossom
knifemaker
www.hossom.com


 
I should add that I can cut out a fairly large blade (maybe 15" OAL) from 3/16" stock in about 15 minutes. Maybe I should also add that I cuss that saw more than any other machine in the shop, but it does get the job done.

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Jerry Hossom
knifemaker
www.hossom.com


 
I have most of my blades water jet cut from my computer data. For one-off and prototype blades I scribes the out line, rough cut with cut off wheels, hacksaws etc, then grind to final shape on the belt grinder.

If you're going to use a band saw try and find one with fluid cooling and be SUPER careful. You can cut your thumb off at the hand joint in a split second so use a push stick and wear eye protection.

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www.wilkins-knives.com


 
I used a sears scroll saw/sabersaw for years. cost about
$35.00. There are a lot more expensive ones but the cheap one was all I could affoerd than. The secret(there are no secrets} use GOOD metal cutting blades.This saw was also used for everthing else around the house from cutting plumbing to "fine" woodworking. It will work but the vibration was tough on the hands. Wrap a piece of foam rubber around the handle.
 
I'd recommend buying a metal bandsaw. Most of us use them and you can get a good one for $200 - $300 from Harbor Freight or Grizzly or even a local pawn shop.
It's worth the investment to use bi-metal blades by Starrett - they last 10 times as long as a regular blade. I buy mine from Koval.

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Gene Osborn
Center Cross Metal Works
I Carry My Crosses for Christ to Give any Glory to God.
 
Longrange
I apologize for my remark.
I know the feeling about rather make knives than cut them out.I also work full time and make knives in the eve and weekends.I spent the first 6 months making a grinder that will take a 2x72 inch belt it works but is a little light.
Profile any way you can .I checked out having someone do it.ie plasma,water jet,torch, whatever. It was just to costly.
I am not a machinist by the way so have no background other than silverwork.
There is a lot of rubber sanding drums around for the smaller areas you need to sand.For finer grits and polishing slit a piece of wood dowel and slip theproper grit in the slot and start sanding.
Any way I can help let me know.
Take Care
TJ
 
I have tried a bandsaw and a jigsaw for cutting blanks, but I still like to use a oxy/acet torch to cut carbon blanks. With practice, a good clean cut is possible and a lot quicker. Practice is the key, a jagged cut with slag hanging is a nightmare to cleanup!
Now with stainless, I use my place of employment's plasma torch and I do use it at times for my carbon blanks.
Anyway that's how I do it. I expect to hear feedback on this one
smile.gif
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"Boy, if ya don't screw up once in a while, ya ain't learnin' nuthin'" - An old cowboy
 
Just a few words on this metal band saw issue.

The Harbor Freight model is IDENTICAL to the Grizzly model, EXCEPT the Harbor Freight model has a 1HP motor and the Grizzly has a 3/4 HP motor. I called to order the saw but it is on backorder until the 28th., I will let you all know how it is in as soon as it gets here.

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C.O.'s-"It takes balls to work behind the walls "
 
I used one of the little 41/2 grinders with a 1/8 blade for years plus the hacksaw. If you just do a coupla of knives, with a good blade(Lennox} and use a little lube { candle wax and criscoe 50/50, it shouldn't take but a few minutes to rough out the profile. If you want to do coupla 100 a cut shop would be a good idea.
 
I too would prefer to spend my time shaping a blade verses hacking out the basic shape. To shorten my low cost method, Hack Saw with a Bi-Metal Blade, I use a touch of bee's wax while I'm cutting. After I've cut 1/4", the blade is starting to heat up and I run a block of bee's wax along each side. You do not need to coat the blade, just a little bit on both sides covering the length of your stroke.

What I can not get out with a hack saw, I use an assortment of flat and half-round Mill Bastard files ranging from 4" all the way up to 16". Trust me, a 16" Mill Bastard, Course Cut, can rip a blade down so fast that you might consider letting it cool down...

As a test, I tried a "speed cut" on a 9" drop point hunter with "finger groove". In a little over 22 minutes, it was done.

PS, the bee's wax lets me use a saw blade for several blanks and BIG, REALLY BIG files makes the rough cuts go quicker...

Hope this helps,

Bruce
 
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