D-2 Questions

SteelSlaver

SteelSlaver

Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
3,375
I scored 4 pieces of D-2. Have the certs and all. The pieces are 12.5"x 39.5" and approx .2" thick. I have made a couple D-2 blades and I love the way it takes an edge and holds it. I am sending one piece of to have cut to a drop point hunter pattern I have made to my liking. 9.5" length 4.5 blade, 1.375 deep. Will be flat ground with a 1/2 hr soak at 1850f. plate quench, 2hours in acetone and dry ice then a 2 hr 475f temper. Should I do 2 tempers with this? Paper micarta (guard area) and wood scales. Basically want it to be my "stock" knife.

I would like to know thoughts on what people think is the limitations of the blades I can make with this stuff. Any draw real backs to this steel? Size? Edge geometry? How about a competition chopper type knife.

Thank you Jim
 
A second temper....absolutely.
Most folks prefer more thickness for heavy duty choppers, but for hunters
and utility knives, your D2 should be fine.
 
I have been using Uddeholm Steel's heat treat specs successfully for almost a decade now and they call for 45 minute soak at 1850°F. I like 30 minutes at 1870°, Temper three times at 450°F (Uddeholm only calls for 2 tempers). No Cryo.
 
30 minutes at 1850 F should be fine , with at least two tempers. Temper a bit higher for a chopper .... Photo is at the Uddeholm sponsered winter Swedish Rally !
 

Attachments

  • rally08pics_day3_05.jpg
    rally08pics_day3_05.jpg
    43.9 KB · Views: 41
I know the cryro thing has be debated and is a bit of help if the HT was not perfect. I do believe in my oven and pid or the trmpratures, but, I figure to go with it as I want to cover all my bases and this steel has a bunch of chrome etc and it is a simple cheap step. Couple bucks a blade if I do 5 or more at a wack. Bit of a hassle but, not bad. I want the people that get these to have performance better than a store knife, but, trying to keep them around a hundred bucks. Opinions
 
So your feeling is that if I get the steel to 1850 and hold for 30 min and then plate quench with 2 pieces of 3/4" 8"x12" aluminum. The cyro is a wasted step. I have been turning this over and over ever since I decided to get the steel. I quess I need to go read that whole thread again. I didn't mean my HT was poor, just want to make sure I have done everything I can to insure a great knife on these.
 
I didn't say cryo was a waste of time. You might get 1-2 HRc points higher hardness. But understand the process because the retained austenite [that you have without cryo] adds a bit of toughness ! Do some experiments !
 
D2, when heat treated "right" has large amounts of retained austenite by design. It helps prevent dimensional changes and improves impact resistance, which is important in a stamping die. I think retained austenite is miserable in a hunting knife, though it may be of some benefit in a chopper, though I'd use a different steel for a chopper.

I love D2. I like it hard and thin. Wonderful combination of high strength (and edge stability), fair corrosion resistance, and good abrasion resistance. Makes a great skinner and work knife. Cryo helps in the applications where D2 is best suited by converting retained austenite (before even a snap temper). IMO.

The heat treat you describe sounds very good to me. I'd soak 45 rather than 30. I'd temper one hour two times. Tomaatoe, tomahtoe...
 
Now I am seeing the picture. For my hunters with a 4" blade that I want to keep a very keen edge I think I will cryro. If I go larger or rough service I will skip that. I know already with the cryro that they keep an great edge. I think I'll do one without and do a cutting test. Nathan you mentioned your recipe for D2 in another thread and I kind of copied it. I will jack up the time at temp a bit.

Thanks for the comments all. appreciate it. Photo of knife 1 and 2 now in the gallery
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top