D-2 Steel...Comments

D

directdrive

Joined
Mar 2, 2006
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12
Hi, All: I am a novice knifemaker. I've only used old file steel and some 1095 thus far. All oil quenched. I'd like to try out some A-2 and some D-2. I saw a comment on one sight made by a knifemaker who said "D-2 takes a lousy edge and holds it forever." Is that true? Should I take the time to fool around with D-2? :confused:
Also, when heating up a steel such as A-2, I notice that the temperature has to be increased after reaching an initial temperature. Will I have a problem with excessive grain growth by holding the steel for a long time between the initial temperature and the higher final temperature prior to an air quench?

Thanks for any and all suggestions
 
The preheat temperature is always below the critical temperature so no grain growth will occur . However those instructions are usually for large sections. The small sections of knives don't usually need preheat.Ther's nothing wrong with D-2 ,some people like oranges , some like apples. A-2 makes a fine knife steel and can be 'plate quenched' - very convenient ! Both of these steels require carefull control of times and temperatures !!
 
Most A2 HTers use two kilns, one at soaking temp and one at critical, what kind of resources do you have for heat treating?

D2 has a bad rap for chipping, but a blade thats not huge, is properly heat treated and is not abused should hold up. Because it has higher wear resistance it is harder to sharpen but lots of D2 owners get a razor edge. Try D2! It will be fun!
 
I love D2. Having worked with D2, A2, O1 and others in tool and die, I developed a respect for D2's strength and abrasion resistance. It is also semi stainless, where A2 rusts pretty quickly. It's a real dog to machine though.

My daily carry is a 62 HRC D2 blade. I made a few of these, one got subjected to destructive testing. Surprisingly, even at that hardness, and with only .025" thickness behind the edge (10" hollow ground) I was able to hammer the blade through nails without real damage. Perhaps high strength makes up for a bit of a lack of ductility.

People who say "It takes a lousy edge and holds it forever" either don't have a very good sharpening setup, or are working with a very thick edge.

I abuse mine in the shop, garden, home repair etc. I mean really beat the crap out of it, deburring parts, cutting wire, drywall whatever. I never need more than five minutes to get back to razor sharp. And for giggles I'll sometimes take it to "hair popping" sharp where it can mow hairs off in midair. Any good knife steel will do that, but my point is D2 can take a great edge when it has a fine edge geometry and a decent set of sharpening stones.

Any high carbide steel will be impossible to sharpen if it is thick (read: most factory knives) and you're doing all your sharpening on a 4" long black Arkansas stone you got once at a hardware store.
 
I agree, D2 is great and takes a wicked sharp edge if the geometry is right. If you are making fixed blades, don't buy the precision ground. The mill finish is MUCH cheaper and you are going to grind it off anyway.

Rob!
 
I may have a bad blade, but my one D2 blade is very disappointing. When honed to a fine edge like I would my 440C kitchen knives (which last very well) the edge chips out in easily visible chunks just by cutting open cardboard boxes. With a thick enough edge to prevent the chipping it stays usefully sharp but will not shave after a few cuts.

It is a Benchmade Griptillian...the Cabela's version with D2.

You know what they say about a sample of one though...so don't think I am slamming all D2, but it has left a bad taste in my mouth and I'll stick with ATS34 for working blades for my next EDC folder.
 
You do not say how long you have had this knife. I would definitely send it back to Benchmade. Sounds like there is something not right with the heat treat/temper. D2 should not do this if tempered properly.
 
CDH: Just sounds like a really POOR heat treating job. D2, A2, 01, etc etc, shouldn't chip out on cardboard! It will probably go dull, but not chip !
 
CDH said:
I may have a bad blade, but my one D2 blade is very disappointing. When honed to a fine edge like I would my 440C kitchen knives (which last very well) the edge chips out in easily visible chunks just by cutting open cardboard boxes. With a thick enough edge to prevent the chipping it stays usefully sharp but will not shave after a few cuts.

It is a Benchmade Griptillian...the Cabela's version with D2.

You know what they say about a sample of one though...so don't think I am slamming all D2, but it has left a bad taste in my mouth and I'll stick with ATS34 for working blades for my next EDC folder.
Click to expand...


D2 needs a long soak at ausentizing temperature, which isn't optimal for mass production. Perhaps they took some kind of a shortcut such as less time at a higher temp?

You could get your blade normalized and reheat treated.
 
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