I just got it from a friend on the cheap because he didn't use it. I am going to use it for a small bush knife for hiking and camping trips. I did do a search using google, but the most I came up with was the Rat 3 in 1095. I know that the company that makes the Rat 3 isn't on favorable terms on here, but I do have a question. I really don't have that much experience with D2 steel. I do know that it is very hard to sharpen. I had to use diamond stones to put a dent on it. Does anybody have this in D2 instead of 1095? Did you have any problems batoning with it, being that it is D2?
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D2 Rat 3
- Thread starter GEC
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2004
- Messages
- 490
I hated the edge on my D2 RAT-3. It was just too obtuse and wouldn't cut well. Pain to thin down too.
Many people say you shouldn't be batoning with D2 as it might chip but honestly, you can only baton so much with a small blade. I think that the size of wood you could baton with the 3 inch blade wouldn't hurt it. Don't quote me on that though since I didn't baton with mine.
Many people say you shouldn't be batoning with D2 as it might chip but honestly, you can only baton so much with a small blade. I think that the size of wood you could baton with the 3 inch blade wouldn't hurt it. Don't quote me on that though since I didn't baton with mine.
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2003
- Messages
- 1,150
I dont have any actuall experience with one,as Im kind of a 1095 guy,so dont put to much stock in this. But IIRC its not the best idea to baton D2. I think its supposed to be a little on the brittle hard side which is supposed to make for a great slicer, especially if you like a little "toothiness" to your edge. The others side of the coin is it may be prone to chip and the colder the more prone it is. If you need a blade you can beat around a bit, 1095 or (again IIRC ) 5160 (becker?) I think is a little more forgiving.
I dont want to speak out of turn either so Id like to emphasize that this is theoretical info only! I may be wrong and someone else may have actuall experience with one that negates what Ive read.
I dont want to speak out of turn either so Id like to emphasize that this is theoretical info only! I may be wrong and someone else may have actuall experience with one that negates what Ive read.
- Joined
- May 5, 2003
- Messages
- 2,494
I have the larger TAK1 in D2. The bevel was a little steep for me so I thinnned and convexed it on a belt sander. You could also knock the bevel back with a coarse diamond stone or diamond rods on a Sharpmaker and have a much better knife, in my opinion.
It now takes a very sharp edge and holds it a very long time. Throw in the fact that D2 is practically "stainless" steel, and you have a winner! A little stropping gets it back to shaving sharp in no time at all. I haven't done any batonning with it, but wouldn't hesitate.
I think D2 is a great blade steel for smaller blades; probably my favorite. I don't think you'd have a problem with a blade of that length.
Stay sharp,
desmobob
It now takes a very sharp edge and holds it a very long time. Throw in the fact that D2 is practically "stainless" steel, and you have a winner! A little stropping gets it back to shaving sharp in no time at all. I haven't done any batonning with it, but wouldn't hesitate.
I think D2 is a great blade steel for smaller blades; probably my favorite. I don't think you'd have a problem with a blade of that length.
Stay sharp,
desmobob
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2008
- Messages
- 26,286
No problem with batoning/wailing on (properly heat-treated) D2. Just look at the Kershaw Outcast.