D2 Scandi grind

C_Claycomb

C_Claycomb

Joined
Dec 11, 2000
Messages
1,130
I know that Charles May makes D2 scandi bush knives, but it seems a strange steel to choose for the role. Have any of you had experience using a zero ground scandi in D2? What sort of edge angle did you have and how did you find it held up? Was it difficult to sharpen?

My gut feeling is that D2 is going to make a poor wood carving blade due to its large carbides making the edge fragile if it is taken to the 20-30 degree inclusive angle that works well on wood. I also suspect that without diamond or ceramic stones it would be hard to sharpen a wide (3/8) bevel, let along give it a fine polish. Okay, even with diamond I don't expect it will go fast.

If I had to choose an air hardening steel, I would probably go for A2 on the basis that it is used for some very fine wood working tools and the toughness would help the fine edge hold up.

What are everyone else's experiences?
 
I have one. Mine cuts great. I have gotten some micro chipping of the edge before but no more than on my 01 scandis of the same bevel angle. I can normally keep mine touched up and actually remove any chips using a loaded strop.

No problems on sharpening the edge or polishing the edge. I'm using a waterstone and a loaded strop or 1500 grit wet dry paper
 
Thanks Hollowdweller.

I had thought that more folk would have had views on this, but apparently not. It leaves me wondering whether a D2 scandi is such an oddity, or whether people just think its a dumb thing to ask about.

I got some feedback on another site and they said much the same thing, that it cut well and wasn't too hard to keep sharp. I would just like to hear what some more people think.

Just to add, the D2 is at RC62...
 
C_Claycomb said:
Thanks Hollowdweller.

I had thought that more folk would have had views on this, but apparently not. It leaves me wondering whether a D2 scandi is such an oddity, or whether people just think its a dumb thing to ask about.

I got some feedback on another site and they said much the same thing, that it cut well and wasn't too hard to keep sharp. I would just like to hear what some more people think.

Just to add, the D2 is at RC62...
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Claycomb?

You might want to ask this question on KF because there's a lot of people with Charlie May knives scandi D2.

On the other hand it could be because they are somewhat of an oddity and there's really not that many people who have them that have cut anything with them.

I have heard several people say what you said in your intro about the alleged downsides. I haven't really experienced much problem with mine. I've done a lot of whittling with it. I've used it in the kitchen a lot. I haven't used it on any game or anything but so far I'd say the performance is somewhere between 01 and 3V. Harder and more stain resistant than 01, but not as hard or chip resistant as 3v.

I'd say it's maybe 10% harder to sharpen than the 01 and about 30% easier to sharpen than 3V

may2-1.jpg

may2.jpg
 
I wouldn't personally ever get a knife like this in D2 and I bet I'm not alone. I think that is why you aren't getting more responses. Most people who'd buy a knife like this to actually use would probably be looking for a plain old high carbon steel. I saw pictures of a May scandi that I thought was attractive, but when I saw the D2 I crossed it off my list.
 
XMP said:
I wouldn't personally ever get a knife like this in D2 and I bet I'm not alone. I think that is why you aren't getting more responses. Most people who'd buy a knife like this to actually use would probably be looking for a plain old high carbon steel. I saw pictures of a May scandi that I thought was attractive, but when I saw the D2 I crossed it off my list.
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That's interesting. I 'd love to hear from somebody else who actually has one in D2 besides me, and who DOESN'T like theirs.
 
I'd be much more inclined to get one in A2 than D2.

Hollowdweller, I'm not saying that it isn't a good knife, but since knives aren't things we get to test-drive we have to go with other criteria. That being the case I think a lot of people are like me and would be leery of D2, especially because of its reputation for difficulty of sharpening in the field.
 
XMP said:
I'd be much more inclined to get one in A2 than D2.

Hollowdweller, I'm not saying that it isn't a good knife, but since knives aren't things we get to test-drive we have to go with other criteria. That being the case I think a lot of people are like me and would be leery of D2, especially because of its reputation for difficulty of sharpening in the field.
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IMO it would be easy to sharpen this one in the field. I also have a 3V and IMO it would be VERY difficult to sharpen in the field, but it stays sharp so long you could go a long time w/o having to do it:thumbup:
 
XMP said:
...I think a lot of people are like me and would be leery of D2...
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Jimmy Lile, Bob Dozier, Tom Krein, Gene Ingram, Charles May, David Winston etc., are not leery of D2 :D

D2 likes diamonds for sharpening.
 
ADD said:
Jimmy Lile, Bob Dozier, Tom Krein, Gene Ingram, Charles May, David Winston etc., are not leery of D2 :D

D2 likes diamonds for sharpening.
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I'm not talking about makers; I'm talking about users, especially in the field. Makers and users don't always (in fact usually don't) have the same criteria. I've put a pretty good edge on 1095 with a rock I picked up, when I didn't have anything else handy. That's a nice option to have
 
well I have a 4000 grit water stone I have used on mine but to get it hair popping I need to follow that up with a strop.

But you do have a point. If ease of sharpening is a criteria go with the soft steel. My 01's are very easy to sharpen.
 
I have had two of the may scandi ground knives in D2. Like you I was skeptical.... at FIRST.

So I ordered a couple.... I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of these knives. I really didn't think they would cut that well.

I can tell you without a doubt these are cutting mothers! They carve wood as good as my wood carving knives. The scandi grind supports the edge and I found them VERY strong in use.

I was so impressed I ordered another one!

What do I think of D2 steel for this role... I like it. If you are not sure, try it.

I am actually making a few scandi's myself in D-2, and CPM 3V.

Tom
 
I have a D2 charlie may and love it. I had some issues with micro chipping at the beginning but I think it is just because the edge may have got burned. No more issued now. I like it alot!
 
XMP said:
I wouldn't personally ever get a knife like this in D2 and I bet I'm not alone. I think that is why you aren't getting more responses. Most people who'd buy a knife like this to actually use would probably be looking for a plain old high carbon steel. I saw pictures of a May scandi that I thought was attractive, but when I saw the D2 I crossed it off my list.
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Thank you, I go by (if you cant say somethin nice...) in A2 or 01, 1095 perhaps I would really like that knife. I am sure charles can accomodate that though.
 
Tom Krein said:
I have had two of the may scandi ground knives in D2. Like you I was skeptical.... at FIRST.

So I ordered a couple.... I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of these knives. I really didn't think they would cut that well.

I can tell you without a doubt these are cutting mothers! They carve wood as good as my wood carving knives. The scandi grind supports the edge and I found them VERY strong in use.

I was so impressed I ordered another one!

What do I think of D2 steel for this role... I like it. If you are not sure, try it.

I am actually making a few scandi's myself in D-2, and CPM 3V.

Tom
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Tom, thanks for posting here. :D What are you putting the Scandi grinds on?
For those that are not familiar with Mr. Krein's work and background and his stature among users of his knives (he does MANY things well, knowledgeable, and modest)... well, his above statement is quite the endorsement. ;)
I think he makes a bushcrafter too. :thumbup:
 
I have been playing with this D2 Scandi for a week or so now and wasn't really impressed with how it was cutting. I showed it to a friend who has a load of scandi knives in all kinds of steel, including D2, and he pointed out that the bevel wasn't quite absolutely flat. :grumpy: Tonight I had a go at flattening the bevel and I reckon that D2 has lived up to billing as a PITA to sharpen. Sure, my waterstones cut it, but I wound up having to go to 120g wet and dry on a glass sheet to make any reasonable headway. It took about 45 minutes messing around to remove a microscopic secondary bevel that can't have been more than 0.020 wide. It cuts much better now, and I will hopefully get to put it through its paces again on the weekend.

Maybe a really shallow hollow grind would have been a better starting point for the maker rather than going for flat and getting very slightly convex.

Did you all have to spend some time initially getting the bevels of Mr May's knives flat?
 
Diamonds are quickest and do NOT try to over polish it.

D2 likes it a little rough. :D

... you know, micro-serrations, large carbides, and all that. :thumbup:

If you are having issues go to the maintenance subforum and search D2.
The problem is there is a lot of MISinformation out there.

Know your steel. ;) Blade geometry, heat treater, and application. :eek:
 
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