D2 steel sharpening

W

Whisper21

Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
30
Can you sharpen D2 steel KA-BARS on a regular oilstone? I am finding mixed claims. What is the definitive answer?
 
I sharpen D2 on regular stones, and get good results. There seems to be a general opinion that D2 cannot be sharpened period, by anyone, at any time. I don't see what the issue is.

It may take a little longer if the edge is dull, but it is no where near impossible. Like any steel, if the edge is maintained with routine touch ups, it is just fine. Any sharpening system that works on any steel should work just fine.
 
Depends on the edge, and the heat treat. D2 blades I have that came with somewhat of an edge no problem on ceramics, stones, etc. A queen d2 that came with literally no edge....I've taken to bout everything including the belt sander and reprofiling is a bear. Stones would sharpen it, but it wouldn't be easy or not take a very long time.
 
Why do people say sharpening D2 is "hard"?? Because that's just not right. The physical skill required to sharpen/reprofile D2 is the exact same amount skill required to sharpen/reprofile 8CR13MOV. It will take (a lot) longer, but it's not harder. That has always confused me :confused:
 
I tried d2 on regular lansky sharpener. Reprofiling took forever. Did it on wicked edge diamond stones it was a breeze. So it can be done on regular stones it just takes alot longer in my experience.
 
TotalDbag said:
Why do people say sharpening D2 is "hard"?? Because that's just not right. The physical skill required to sharpen/reprofile D2 is the exact same amount skill required to sharpen/reprofile 8CR13MOV. It will take (a lot) longer, but it's not harder. That has always confused me :confused:
Click to expand...

Is it harder to run 5 ft or 26.2 miles?

If it takes longer then it is more difficult because it requires more energy and if you free hand you have to maintain the angle that much longer.
 
Yup, Bob Dozier told me that D2 cannot be sharpened. LOL

ebidis said:
I sharpen D2 on regular stones, and get good results. There seems to be a general opinion that D2 cannot be sharpened period, by anyone, at any time. I don't see what the is sue is.

It may take a little longer if the edge is dull, but it is no where near impossible. Like any steel, if the edge is maintained with routine touch ups, it is just fine. Any sharpening system that works on any steel should work just fine.
Click to expand...
 
TotalDbag said:
Why do people say sharpening D2 is "hard"?? Because that's just not right. The physical skill required to sharpen/reprofile D2 is the exact same amount skill required to sharpen/reprofile 8CR13MOV. It will take (a lot) longer, but it's not harder. That has always confused me :confused:
Click to expand...

Bingo! We have a winner!
 
Steels with high carbide content like D2, S30V, respond well to diamond hones, in my experience.
 
There are different kinds of oilstones, Arkansas, Aluminum Oxide(India), and Slicon Carbide(Crystolon). Which kind are your referring to? Arkansas stones don't work well on wear resistant steels like D2 but the Silicon Carbide stones will work fine. IMO Diamond stones are worth the money if you have more then one or two knives with a high end steel like d2 or s30v.
 
In my experience diamonds do well, waterstones do best, and a silicon carbide oil stone does it really fast. A fine sic stone then the slurry from that stone on a leather strop to finish makes for a really nice edge on D2 tool steel.
 
D2 is 'very easy' to grind (re-bevel) on diamond, refines & polishes beautifully (and still easily) on silicon carbide, and touches up nicely on aluminum oxide as well. There's definitely a threshold at which it becomes hard (difficult) to grind heavily, due to the chromium carbides in it. 440C and D2 are very similar in that regard, in that they become MUCH harder to grind on natural (Arkansas) stones, but can be maintained much more easily on most anything else.

My favorite method for D2 is a 'one-two punch' of re-bevelling with diamond (very fast), then refining & polishing on SiC and/or AlOx wet/dry sandpaper. My first (and luckily very successful) attempt at this was a Queen folder's D2 blade re-bevelled with a DMT Fine 'credit card' hone, then convexed on wet/dry paper to 2000+ grit. Really an eye-opener, in how well that combination worked. Beyond that, D2 also responds beautifully to stropping on SiC and green compound. The true beauty of D2's edge retention is, stropping accounts for virtually ALL of needed maintenance beyond re-bevelling (so long as you stay ahead of it).


David
 
Last edited:
Obsessed with Edges said:
The true beauty of D2's edge retention is, stropping accounts for virtually ALL of needed maintenance beyond re-bevelling (so long as you stay ahead of it).
David
Click to expand...

This last sentience of David's is the basic secrete and answer to nearly any knife steel in use today. If you stay on top of your knives and keep them well maintained (meaning sharpened), your knives will last a lot longer with less blade grinding (loss of blade material). Plus if they are sharp when ever you need to use them, they are much more enjoyable to use and have. If you don't have the time to tune your knife up at the end of each day of use, then get more than one knife to add to your rotation. (horror of horrors, an excuse to buy more knives :eek:)

Put your strop next to your favorite easy chair and sit back and watch re-runs of NCIS or Baywatch and relax your stress of the day away by stropping your favorite knife back into shape. Then, after you are finished with your blade duties, enjoy a nice adult beverage of your choice. (elevator music in the background.....)

Blessings,

Omar
 
I have a Benchmade Adamas, with D2. I sharpen it on a Norton India stone, using water. It is a fine/coarse stone. I can get a toothy edge, that shaves with ease off of it, in not a terribly long time.
 
I find D-2 very quick and easy compared to many more modern steels. D-2 is an older steel, but still an excellent blade steel.

If the edge is "chewed up," I start with a coarse diamond on the EP, then a fine diamond, then polish with a 2000 Shapton Pro water stone. Due to the large carbides in D-2, I don't usually go past 2000. But even with a stone that coarse, I can get a light shine, and a good smooth, razor sharp cutting edge with very little toothiness. IOW, an excellent edge.

I don't think that I would enjoy sharpening it with oil stones, though!:(
 
OHALLUM said:
Put your strop next to your favorite easy chair and sit back and watch re-runs of NCIS or Baywatch and relax your stress of the day away by stropping your favorite knife back into shape. Then, after you are finished with your blade duties, enjoy a nice adult beverage of your choice. (elevator music in the background.....)
Blessings,

Omar
Click to expand...


Always enjoy the adult beverage AFTER putting the sharp things away. (And don't ask me how me how I know that):p
 
OHALLUM said:
This last sentience of David's is the basic secrete and answer to nearly any knife steel in use today. If you stay on top of your knives and keep them well maintained (meaning sharpened), your knives will last a lot longer with less blade grinding (loss of blade material). Plus if they are sharp when ever you need to use them, they are much more enjoyable to use and have. If you don't have the time to tune your knife up at the end of each day of use, then get more than one knife to add to your rotation. (horror of horrors, an excuse to buy more knives :eek:)

Put your strop next to your favorite easy chair and sit back and watch re-runs of NCIS or Baywatch and relax your stress of the day away by stropping your favorite knife back into shape. Then, after you are finished with your blade duties, enjoy a nice adult beverage of your choice. (elevator music in the background.....)

Blessings,

Omar
Click to expand...

That's how I 'trained' my hands for stropping. Post-dinnertime (steak & potato, ideally), a glass or three of good red wine, a good TV show and my feet up on an ottoman in front of a comfy easy chair. Plus my strop and blade of choice. This was one of the more pleasant ways I've ever spent my evenings at home. And I do mean 'ever'. :thumbup:


David :)
 
Ben Dover said:
I find D-2 very quick and easy compared to many more modern steels. D-2 is an older steel, but still an excellent blade steel.

If the edge is "chewed up," I start with a coarse diamond on the EP, then a fine diamond, then polish with a 2000 Shapton Pro water stone. Due to the large carbides in D-2, I don't usually go past 2000. But even with a stone that coarse, I can get a light shine, and a good smooth, razor sharp cutting edge with very little toothiness. IOW, an excellent edge.

I don't think that I would enjoy sharpening it with oil stones, though!:(
Click to expand...
Funnily enough, D2 isn't all that difficult to sharpen, and polishes up very well.

I reground a Spyderco Pacific Salt in H1 and reground a Queen's Maple Hunter in D2, I distinctly remember the H1 knife took longer to do. And the Queen Cutlery knives don't need to be rebeveled, half the steel in the blade needs to be completely removed for it to be better suited for much more than a sharpened prybar. I'm just thankful I got mine so cheap(a little less than $60, which isn't too shabby for a fixed blade in D2 with nice handles and a leather sheath).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top