d2 steel...your thoughts

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kane22

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Feb 25, 2013
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I've got one on the way in d2 and just wanted to know what you guys think of the steel in general. From everything I've read it seems to take a good edge without too much work and hold a working edge for a very long time. How prone is it to rust? I'm not in salt air but we get some humid days here in the summer. So far my 3v isn't showing any signs of rust, and d2 should be more rust resistant than it.
 
I happen to like D2. It sharpens up very nicely for me and I never have any issues with corrosion.

On the other hand, I work in an office, though that office is in a hot and humid area. Still, no matter how long I've been out, no matter how long I set it on the desk without wiping it down, it purrs along rust-free and sharp as an ex-wife's tongue.
 
One of my favorite steels. In my experience D2 doesn't really rust, if neglected if will get kind of a grey dull look to it, but it takes a lot of really bad neglect to see active red rust on D2.

It's tough and holds a an edge really well, but it's best to touch it up, rather than let it get really dull, or you'll have some work on your hands, and diamond hones will be needed.
 
Search around the site and you can find a lot on this steel. I have several knives that have D2 blades, and they are from Queen, Kershaw and Ontario.

Love 'em all. It holds an edge quite well, especially the Queen and Ontario version. I can rust stainless as I must have radioactive/toxic sweat, and the D2 holds up well. I am in construction and sometimes sweat all the way through my jeans daily (about this time of year) and although the D2 might get a red dot or two of rust on it, it easily comes off.

There are a lot of folks that have trouble sharpening D2, and many that think you need diamond faced stones. Not so. While they might make the job easier, I reprofile on my old Lansky with the alox stones with no problem.

D2 is easy to touch up, too. I keep a piece of hard cardboard in the truck that has a light coating of green stainless polish on it to use as a strop. Works great!

And since D2 bladed knives aren't considered "super steel" knives they are still affordable. I love the stuff.

Robert
 
D2 is great stuff. Takes and holds a great edge, and it is really tough. While technically not "stainless", I haven't had rust issues on any of my D2 blades. It can be difficult to sharpen though. With my Arkansas stones, it seemed like I was cutting more stone than steel when trying to sharpen. On my DMT stones and Sharpmaker, though, I've had no problems.
 
I love D2. It is fairly corrosion resistant, its chromium content falls just barely short of the requirements for being considered stainless. I have 4 knives in it and all have been great. Very tough, pretty easy to touch up on the sharpmaker. Probably my favorite steel. I have D2 from three different manufacturers (Brous, Lionsteel/DPX, and Benchmade) so it seems to be fairly easy to get the heat treat right. Then again, its been around for many years.
 
Like D2. Own a few knives with the steel and use one in the kitchen cutting all things. I just clean it and wipe with oily rag (mineral or camellia) and never let it get dull.
 
D2 is a great knife steel, I like Bob Dozier's Heat Treatment of it in particular.

Savage edge retention is it's strong suit.

The large carbides can make it a bit harder to sharpen, and carbide blow-out can make it seem brittle when overstressed in a thin cross-section, but with proper HT and Geometry it makes an excellent knife blade.

CPM-D2 offers all of the benefits of regular D2, but, because of it's fine grain structure, it's both tougher and easier to sharpen then it's counterpart.



Big Mike
 
Every time I see "d2'' I shed a tear because I never bought a paramility sprint in d2 and foliage green when spyderco was dumping them for like $105 few years back :( :(
 
D2 has a "toothier" edge than CPM D2 & other powder steels, as well as most modern "super" steels.

It's said that it isn't as tough as CPM D2, but unless you're batoning it through ironwood with a piece of rebar as the baton, or prying open tank hatches...I don't think you'll notice any difference.

As for the corrosion resistance... if you haven't had a problem with your 3V knife, I wouldn't worry about D2. I live in FL, surrounded by marshes and swamps, and my 1095CV blades don't turn to dust. If it really is a concern, you can always give it a light coat of mineral oil. I use that on all my non-stainless blades. It's inexpensive, food safe, and easy to find at any pharmacy or grocer's pharmacy aisle.

What make & model are you getting?
 
D2 is probably my favorite steel all-around. Holds an edge like crazy.

I order it on any blade likely to see rough use or a lot of outdoor. I oil my blades occasionally and I've never had a problem with rust on D2.
 
It's my favorite steel, all my knives would be D2 if I had the choice. I don't need anything better as it already exceeds what I require of a knife steel, I like it's toughness, I like the way it feels on a stone, and I like the toothy sharp edge I can get. No problems with rust on any d2 knife I have ever owned, I would take it over S30V any day.
 
Haven't had any negatives with D2 yet and have 5 blades made of it. My favorite cheaper steel. Agree with all the positives above.
 
One of my favorite steels. Takes a great edge (eventually), best if you use diamond hones. My favorites include a Dozier K1, Cabella's Grippie and a 710.
 
Boonedoggle said:
D2 has a "toothier" edge than CPM D2 & other powder steels, as well as most modern "super" steels.

It's said that it isn't as tough as CPM D2, but unless you're batoning it through ironwood with a piece of rebar as the baton, or prying open tank hatches...I don't think you'll notice any difference.

As for the corrosion resistance... if you haven't had a problem with your 3V knife, I wouldn't worry about D2. I live in FL, surrounded by marshes and swamps, and my 1095CV blades don't turn to dust. If it really is a concern, you can always give it a light coat of mineral oil. I use that on all my non-stainless blades. It's inexpensive, food safe, and easy to find at any pharmacy or grocer's pharmacy aisle.

What make & model are you getting?
Click to expand...

I ordered a Jason Brous reloader with the stonewashed finish. I've heard him talk about d2 and seems to have a good heat treat for it. I think his are 59-60 RC. If I like it it'll be my carry knife, so that's why I was a little concerned about rust.

Thanks for all the feedback on d2, I hadn't heard anything bad, but still nice to see people are happy with it.
 
Boonedoggle said:
D2 has a "toothier" edge than CPM D2 & other powder steels
Click to expand...


It's the nature of the beast.


The large carbides in the "Regular" D2 make a toothy edge easy to achieve,

...to work it to a polished edge requiters quite a bit more work.


The fine grain structure of CPM D2 is what makes it that much easy to finish it to a polished edge.


Got to love the age of particle metals.



Big Mike
 
D2 is easily one of my favorites, and I'm disappointed that it's not as commonly used as it was. I like the feel it gives in sharpening, and the already-described toothier edge. Rust is not something about which I would worry with regards to D2.
 
Some time ago there was another thread on D2 & someone posted a link to a knifemaker's page that had a great article on the steel. I can't find the thread & really enjoyed the article so if anyone remembers it, please refresh my memory.

Also, from what I've read (I haven't ever used it hard), D2 isn't "tough" in the same sense that S7 or 5160 is tough. It doesn't do thin bevels very well. It holds a great edge but I keep wondering if some posters mean edge holding when they say "tough". The article I mentioned above insisted that it is plenty tough with the right heat treat (its made for making dies) but didn't always get this.
 
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