D2 Steel

[HoosierQ]

D2 is great stuff. It's a "tool steel" meaning they make things like metal cutting tools, super-duper drill bits and stuff like that out of it. I have a very sharp file that cuts 1095 hardened to 58 like cheese on a grater. That same file will not even make a scratch on a D2 blade at 62...literally not a scratch.

Sharpening is difficult, reprofiling is a nightmare...unless you have diamond stones. Then it is a lot better to work with. I reprofiled both of my Benchmade 275 Adamas with diamond files and stones and it went well. I reprofiled to about 25 inclusive and then use a ceramic SharpMaker to put a 40 degree microbevel on it. That went well.

But yes, it can be very difficult to sharpen. If you don't have diamonds, don't get a D2 blade IMHO...YMMV. Not sure where good waterstones fit in that equation as I have never used them.

 

[Gator97]

Whetstones work fine on D2, 62 or 64 HRC. Never tried file on that though, but 200-500 grit stone will reprofile in minutes. Like I said, right tools...

 

[ShooterMcgavin]

Thanks for all the input. I have been reading along.
Can you guys comment on D2 toughness a little more? It is something I have wanted to know about for a while. Let's assume average hardness blades are being discussed here (Benchmade D2, for example). How does D2 rank against other steels for toughness?... Compared to AUS8, 154CM, VG-10, ELMAX, or others? I'm kinda guessing that everything I have just thrown out there is considered tougher, but I'd love to hear from those who know

 

[Shotgun]

How does D2 compare to a steel like 1095 for strength? I'm getting an outdoors knife made out of it and was wondering if it was at least as tough as 1095 for a task like batoning.

 

[Shotgun]

Thanks for all the input. I have been reading along.
Can you guys comment on D2 toughness a little more? It is something I have wanted to know about for a while. Let's assume average hardness blades are being discussed here (Benchmade D2, for example). How does D2 rank against other steels for toughness?... Compared to AUS8, 154CM, VG-10, ELMAX, or others? I'm kinda guessing that everything I have just thrown out there is considered tougher, but I'd love to hear from those who know

You beat me to it.

 

[cbxer55]

The only knife I have with D2 is an old Camillus Cuda Maxx 5.5 D2, so my experience is limited. It has a razor sharp edge and seems to retain it well. It is not, IMHO very hard to sharpen if you do not let it get real dull to begin with. Why I usually keep a folding two-sided hone in my hip pocket, fine and ultra-fine. Rarely ever need anything more aggressive if kept real sharp to begin with.

 

[ShooterMcgavin]

You beat me to it.

We are thinking along the same lines

From my knowledge, I believe most typical hardness ranges of 1095 are going to be lower than those used in D2. I have also read that 1095 is considered a reasonably tough steel. I don't know if that is only because 1095 is usually not hardened to over 60, or if that is regardless of it's hardness level. Since D2 is often treated to 60 or more, it might be a little like apples to oranges. It's tough to compare 1095 at 57 RC against D2 at 60 RC. Finding a 1095 blade hardened to 60 RC to test is a little out of the ordinary too.

Someone with more knowledge will be along shortly

 

[goodeyesniper]

I have no personal experience with d2.all I know is a user named vivi on the spyderco forums put the meanest looking edge on a d2 Millie by hand. I have to check my eyeballs for cuts after looking at this.

I don't even want to guess how low that angle is, but they said the edge held up fine.

 

[Shotgun]

I have no personal experience with d2.all I know is a user named vivi on the spyderco forums put the meanest looking edge on a d2 Millie by hand. I have to check my eyeballs for cuts after looking at this.

I don't even want to guess how low that angle is, but they said the edge held up fine.

That's mean looking. Nice patina as well.

 

[dragonsprayer]

In my experience it holds an edge better than average and S30V is pretty average these days. If you are set up to sharpen modern 'super steels' (diamonds and even ceramics) it isn't all that hard to sharpen. Also, 12% or more chromium makes a steel stainless and D2 has around 11% so it is basically stainless. I haven't had issues with staining.

Also, if you keep up with your knives and strop often or hit it on something like ceramic Sharp Maker after every couple uses so the knife never really gets dull, it really isn't bad keeping it hair popping sharp.

I like D2 and prefer it over most steels except for the newer super steels that will really hold an edge. And it doesn't seem too terribly far behind them. This is my experience at least.

ACCORDING too cpm it is super D2, the power vandium nitride steels, s30v etc are super D2. One thing about steel is a lot work goes into making it consistent. D2 is established tool steel for decades.

It supposed to be hard too sharpen, if you sharpend like i do - i hone sharpen knives on fine. Instead with D2 you need too use all blocks, i use tri block set up with 3 stones. For 440c or similar fine is fine to hone while you watch tv i spend hours too sharpen or hone a knife by hand. Thats how i have done it.

D2 is air hardened so it should be hard too sharpen. It it is tool steel if was easy too sharpen it would not be a tool steel.

For us non-knife makers, who do not have belt sanders with lots of grit belts. You should choose too spend more time with a coarser stone, and the medium then plan on spending just as much time on the fine stone. I do not use fancy sharpeners or diamond never wear rods - plain old stones.

D2 is semi stainless, which means carbide migration or spiders - black spots. Store it in good coating of what ever you use too seal up metal. I use 3 step method for my high carbon fighters, coat it with micro coating, i cover it cheap petro based lube and cover it is wax paper. The combo could form acid compounds, but i have never had a single knife or other spider.

PM me if you need help with this process. Since i never tested it long term with an acid tester - I should - I am not going too print it hear. But it does wash off with hot water and soap, and turns tacky. I remove it every few years and look and recoat. I use other methods, renansiance wax is well established for high end knives.

I dropped a piece of wax paper (with the sticky coating on it) on my wood floor for a day or 2, it ate the varnish off the floor (you know the 25 year warranty floor) and seriously darkened the wood.

I have leek D2 combo and D2 axes and D2 fixed blade fighters. Good choice but tool steel is not 440c. research it.

ATS-34 is a good compromise: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/594165-ATS-34-Steel

440c can be stained i know the hard way - my cat pee'd on a knife and netralizer and pee stained it black!~

the new fancy steels are good for high use fighters the cpm line, i see knife makers grind down blanks of s3v
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/715792-Knives-that-use-CPM-3V-(aka-S3v)/page2

why link all these others? Well D2 is often used as a comparison.

You might just choose renasiance wax and silica gel for storage but long term storage should be like high carbon.

 

[cbxer55]

I have no personal experience with d2.all I know is a user named vivi on the spyderco forums put the meanest looking edge on a d2 Millie by hand. I have to check my eyeballs for cuts after looking at this.

I don't even want to guess how low that angle is, but they said the edge held up fine.

That is one mean looking Mili. Bet that sucker really sends the hairs on your arm for a ride.

 

[DallasSTB]

I had a lengthy discussion with Gayle Bradley on the CPM version of D2, and he loves the stuff. He said that the uniformity of the powder metallurgy process made the steel much tougher with regard to deflection than the standard D2 while achieving the same hardness levels. Unfortunately he said it was discontinued or he'd still be using it. I'm sure he'd love to explain it to anyone if you want to contact him (via his website). Wonderful guy to talk to.

 

[dragonsprayer]

I have had open stored D2 items, displayed in semi sealed case get small spots on it which is common with high carbon. So becareful if you an expensive D2 steel item it can not be reversed. catch it early and clean it since spiders actually grow! like growing crystals in science class.

Then again this can be function of the steel itself. How good is the blank or how was it forged?

1.50% carbon this is high, this is why it will get spots from carbon diffusion

0.30% silica is low but silica is impurity it is the most common element on the earth it is also grain boundry additive 440c is 1%

12.00% chrome can be less

0.80% molly


hardness in the range 55-62 HRC big range! So as noted above it could be soft, if it easy too sharpen it was harnened for other reasons like an axe is.


0.90% vandium is high for non fancy alloy

 

[dragonsprayer]

I had a lengthy discussion with Gayle Bradley on the CPM version of D2, and he loves the stuff. He said that the uniformity of the powder metallurgy process made the steel much tougher with regard to deflection than the standard D2 while achieving the same hardness levels. Unfortunately he said it was discontinued or he'd still be using it. I'm sure he'd love to explain it to anyone if you want to contact him (via his website). Wonderful guy to talk to.

steel that is not cpm like or powder is worked more so the grain is much different the cpm chemistry is hand in hand with the fine and uniform grain structure.

powder metal is like jar of marbles all the same size with air gaps as grain boundry
D2 is normally forged steel is like jar of gravel.

by controlling the grain size you have really a different animal it word steel really should be changed since it more like a diamond. But you pay a high price, i would really like one of the s90v kersaw tilts!


note: it think the powdered D2 is more marketing since cpm has expanded it's powder line and it is so well excepted. you see D2 and you think it is not powder forged. it should be renamed D2PM

 

[jdk1]

How does D2 compare to a steel like 1095 for strength? I'm getting an outdoors knife made out of it and was wondering if it was at least as tough as 1095 for a task like batoning.

IIRC, the RTAK, along with some of the Ontario made RAT line, were made in D2. I recall there have been some broken blades. Of course, folks could break titanium ball bearings if given the opportunity. I'd bet there's also plenty of them chugging along doing fine as well. I recently picked up a HEST II Assault made of Sleipner, which is billed as an "improved" D2 for industrial applications. It's billed as tougher, as well as easier to sharpen, but I've wondered how it compares to the Rowen made HEST (1095) under real abuse. It'll likely never be abused, but I'd like to know what I could expect.

It came to me relatively dull. It wouldn't hang on a fingernail, but would slide right off. I'm not a good sharpener by any stretch, but after 20 minutes or so fiddling (trying to see if the angles matched etc.) with my Sharpmaker, it took a shocking amount of hair off my arm. I just used the gray medium rods and finished with a few white ceramic strokes. If I can sharpen it, I'd say it couldn't be too hard. I realise Sleipner is not exactly D2, but hope this helps anyway. Take care.

 

[dragonsprayer]

you break any knife if you try hard enough i would guess with RAT - i am fan

that since they made in mass quanties that a bad batch heat treat made it brittle. i now sure if strait D2 is the best choice for a survial knife. but it depends on the skill of the maker.

in the case of my axe it is large and full tang with fairly heavy wood and good support top and bottom well pinned - wood grain runs long ways - it is ebony wood. one too use and one not too. i got for what i am pretty sure was cost at $250 with lot of engraving.

sharpening with a stone is an art, like i said i more hone blades. do not let them get dull and work it for hours.

 

[The Mastiff]

Dragonsprayer, is English a second language for you? I'm having a difficult time understanding your posts.

Joe

 

[Sulaco]

Dragonsprayer, is English a second language for you? I'm having a difficult time understanding your posts.

Joe

Ditto. I have no clue what you are talking about.

As for D2, I like it. I have two knives in D2 right now but I've owned a bunch over the years. I had an old RTAK in D2 and that thing was just crazy tough. I couldn't hurt it and from the things I used it for, you'd think I was trying to break it. I traded it and other than some scuffs, it looked like new!

My current favorite folder, a 710 in D2, I've been EDC'ing it a lot lately and used it a good bit this week. It still has the factory bevels and all I've done is lightly strop it. It will still shave. In my opinion D2 holds a good working edge much longer than S30V. At least that's my experience anyway.

I think D2 is my second favorite steel after CPM-M4. I also like Bohler's M390, but it isn't widely used so I haven't had much experience with it.

 

[EZ Bake]

man, i cant believe so many "hard to sharpen responses" cant say ive had much issue. Ive actually had harder times sharpening S30V and Elmax over D2.

I was just going to say - I love my D2 blades and sharpening isn't nearly as bad as some of the "Super Steels" or even other more difficult tool steels.

I can see if you're trying to get a mirror edge as D2 get's a great (extremely sharp) toothy edge, but its harder to get polished to a shine. I don't even bother taking it past the Med stones anymore as it's scary sharp without removing anymore steel. It seems to almost get sharper with use for a bit before it starts to dull. The edge retention is awesome as opposed to S30v that goes into that "working edge" so quickly.

I will say though that I can't typically strop D2 back into a super-sharp edge like I can S30v, but that's probably because I let my D2 blades get a lot more dull because the edge seems to last long enough that I don't have to think about it every day like my S30v blades.

 

[me2]

I'd give AUS8 a higher toughness than D2. The others listed are in the same class, and individual processing will determine the exact order. As for 1095 vs D2, I'll say 1095 has been used in machetes for a long time, but I'd never use or buy one in D2 except out of morbid curiosity.