Damaged an edge. Advice?

Major Kong

Major Kong

Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
856
Okay Hogs, can I have some advice here? I was out in the woods with my user BWM yesterday chopping on some logs and generally having fun. When I came in I noticed that I had chipped out the edge near the tip of the blade. I tried to be careful with what I was chopping, but apparently I missed the mark at some point. My question is- what's the best way to fix this damage? More specifically, to smooth all the chips out looks like it's going to require some fairly major work. Am I overestimating the damage here?
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Fred, You might consider sending your BWM to Norcalblactail for the satin/convex treatment. The chips will be gone and you will get a light saber in return!:thumbup:

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I do that all the time.

Your looks more like rolls than chips.

Best way to start is with a smooth steel, a screwdriver shaft is a suitable stand-in.

Steel out the damage first, pushing the damage back to the edge to reform it, then sharpen as usual to clean up any residual.
 
That looks minor:) I would straighten the edge out with a steel and lightly sharpen it out too.
Looks like the thinnest part of the edge dented or rolled a little.
Al
 
That is the first time I think I have seen a chip in INFI wow congrats. Like the others say I would just try to use a steel or other smooth hard steel surface to force the rolls back into place. Then sharpen out the light chips and you are good to go.
 
jimmyjones said:
I do that all the time.

Your looks more like rolls than chips.

Best way to start is with a smooth steel, a screwdriver shaft is a suitable stand-in.

Steel out the damage first, pushing the damage back to the edge to reform it, then sharpen as usual to clean up any residual.
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+1 Great advice--obviously, the less steel you remove the longer the blade will last, and those little rolls won't bother a thing. I believe it was Cobalt who put a nice ding in the edge of a SHBM years ago, steeled and re-sharpened, and still had a little gap--said it cut better than ever, naming it the "single serration" effect.

BTW, Nate does great work, but if you decide to send it anywhere for re-sharpening, send it to Busse. They'll take care of it no problem and you'll never have a warranty issue if you use the Busse shop. See Jerry's sticky at the top of page one on what to do if you have a problem with your knife.
 
It will sharpen out of over time. I am
glad you said they were chips. Folks here with a little to much kool aid often deny that INFI will chip. It damn sure does.
 
Get yourself a Norton two sided stone with the fine and medium grits. Should opnly take ya a few minutes to get back to sharp :) I love how fast the Norton can cut steel. I use it when I want to fix a ding without using the grinder and removing too much material.
 
If you want the edge to look perfect send it in to Busse, if you want the edge to be functional just let it sharpen out over time. And the screwdriver trick is a good suggestion, push it as straight as you can and sharpen it up a little.
 
jimmyjones said:
I do that all the time.

Your looks more like rolls than chips.

Best way to start is with a smooth steel, a screwdriver shaft is a suitable stand-in.

Steel out the damage first, pushing the damage back to the edge to reform it, then sharpen as usual to clean up any residual.
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This.

The first rock kiss is always the saddest!

Once you fix it, and realize how easy it is, the next time won't be so sad!
 
tundratrader said:
It will sharpen out of over time. I am
glad you said they were chips. Folks here with a little to much kool aid often deny that INFI will chip. It damn sure does.
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What??? INFI doesn't chip. Ever.

stjones said:
....or worse than my B9!!

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EVER! :grumpy: ;) :D:D

But seriously, it was a long time before I saw an actual chip out with INFI posted on these boards... and it does seem to happen much less than with other steels. From my own personal experience, I have yet to see it happen with a Busse. Dents, rolls, dings, tear outs usually to a rolled area of edge, and even about 1/16th" of a tip shorn off on an accidental rock strike, sure...but no actual chipping so far. (knocks wood :D)
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to take jimmyjones advice and try to straighten out what I can, sharpen it up and keep using it.
 
Jerry has previously presented what appear to be chips as 'tearouts', which are technically different. Like having to pull a piece of tape off a box vs. tapping a thin wine glass and having the edge shoot off of it. I don't know enough or could look closely enough at the blades to tell the difference first hand.
 
This is one thing a small belt sander might be useful for. I suggest power sanders hesitantly, because you can remove a lot of steel very quickly, but if you want it done fast and are very careful they work well enough. Other than that I like to use an 11" benchstone.
 
Major Kong,

If you would like to send it to us we will fix it for you:):)

Thank you,
Amy
Customer Service
Busse Combat
 
Amy-0 said:
Major Kong,

If you would like to send it to us we will fix it for you:):)

Thank you,
Amy
Customer Service
Busse Combat
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Thanks Amy,
I had no doubt you all would take care of it if asked, but I made the mess so I'd like to try to clean it up. If I mangle it so badly that I'm ready to give up then I'll send it to you all :)

Cheers,
Fred
 
The screw driver,as jimmyjones has stated, then a corse ceramic rod. I find the ceramic for smooths i and even seems to straighten it somehow without removing excessive metal or 240 grit on a mouse pad, then 400 grit on mouse pad, then strop. Good to go.....
 
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