Damascus 1911 Pistol Build: Anyone here really good with a milling machine?

David Schott said:
Okay quick update:

Heres the kicker: I would need to have two frames made because their tooling cuts two frames at once.

IG: I would need to make TWO slabs of damascus with the dimensions 7/8 X 5 X 12-1/8....thats a pretty huge billet, but do you think its within the capabilities of big bertha? I would think the 12" length and 7/8" thickness wouldnt be too bad, but a 5" wide billet might be tough to stretch out....

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I think (scary),she could handle it.;):cool::D.I plan on doing up a feather pattern in the near future.
 
thinking it might be easier to do a multi bar twist/Turkish type
that way you could say stack up the square bars then weld into the large billet in a can for a super clean weld

that make any sense
sounds cool BTW

also depending on who you use deker might be in on it as he has been working this out for a while
 
David,

I've been quietly working on this same idea for a number of years. Obviously a damascus slide can be just fine, and a frame shouldn't have any major issues either. BATF concerns would obviously be high on the list (I'll be working with a firearms manufacturer to do the entirety of the frame/slide machining and it will be purchased as any other firearm). If you have a shop not used to building 1911 parts do any machining, be forewarned that things may not work out as you'd like them. I'm certain that the blueprints, if followed correctly, can produce a frame/slide pair that can work, but will require a good bit of fitting/mating to work properly. 1911's can be picky (to say the least) so if it were me I'd either plan to have a competent 1911 gunsmith provide some service in fitting (which may mess with you on BATF issues) or work on a few "kit" builds with regular parts before working with "the good stuff". Also, don't forget to look into the proper HT for your steel. The way we HT for knives will not be tough enough for firearm use.

From my looking at this over the years, there is no cheap way out on this project...it's why mine isn't done yet. :D

Not trying to discourage you, but it's a different world and there's a lot to get right in order to have a safe, reliable 1911.

Keep us posted tho, I want to see how you make out!

-d
 
butcher_block said:
thinking it might be easier to do a multi bar twist/Turkish type
that way you could say stack up the square bars then weld into the large billet in a can for a super clean weld
Click to expand...

True, it would look really cool, but those last welds will be your weak point and would likely to be the place you'd fracture stuff. I'm sure it can be done, but I'd personally make several billets and test them to destruction to be sure....

-d
 
Deker,
I may pick your brain at some point to find out who you are using and what info you have gleaned thus far...I am just at the baby-steps stage of this idea and it sounds like you are much further along!

The idea of having a company do the whole thing and purchase through a FFL is much more appealing than trying to do it myself and from multiple source and end up with a heavy paperweight...but I assume that route is going to cost me a lot more...
 
I would pick a company who can make top flight machined frames. There aren't many.
1911 frames are way softer than most knives or slides. Frames are usually under 30 RC.
Slides are 40-44
 
Isn't it amazing how great minds think alike?

My biggest fear is this: Why hasn't someone done this before? Who has gone far enough along the path to realize its not worth the effort? What is the deal-breaker?

I think the deal breaker is $$...

Toying with lots of opinions and ideas now....

Perhaps, like knives, if you want something done right and you dont have the cash, the best option would be to spend the $$ on a good milling machine and then the time to learn how to do it all myself. It can't hurt my knifemaking to become a self-taught milling expert, right?
 
I looked into this years ago and the deal breaker for me, was cost. Don't remmber the details.

Pretty sure Cliff Parker look into it also, him being a 45 nut and capable of super cool damascus.
 
Over at the previous site I mentioned theres a guy who does the maching.It will require BATF registration.If you build the frame yourself and dont sell it you need no registration of any kind.Milling the slide is not extremely difficult,nor is any of the other parts.Good parts kits run about 200-300 dollars but since your building the slide it will be less.Machining takes time,even with cnc.I have built one using a 80% frame forging and did the last 20% myself,I then added a complete parts kit.Total cost of cutters,80% forged frame,and parts kit was under 300$.It shoots better than several of my friends high end 1500$ plus pistols as I went slowly and did the finishing cuts with new bits and very slowly hand honed the frame to slide fit.If you dont own a milling machine maybe its time to buy one.I have seen numerous 1911's made on mini mills.Even a new mini is 500$.Then add about 500 for all the tooling to do the pistol.Add 200'ish for top quality parts kit(less slide)and 200"ish in steel and propane and you got a 1500$ pistol that will be way cooler than some off the shelf 1500$ pistol that'l drop its value 500$ the first time its shot.As far as rust goes talk with IG and see if he can do it in stainless.If you put it all in a thick can,add some kerosene or wd40,and weld it tightly and then soak for a long time(1 1/2-2hours once it reaches welding temp) then rust will be much less of a problem.Of course this will add extra time for annealing and depending on the stainless used you may use more bits,but theres no reason it cant be done.
 
David,
Please give me a call this evening if possible, I have made damascus prototypes for Smith & Wesson. I may be able to help you with the particulars for the damascus. 231-238-4705
Thanks,
Del
 
David Schott said:
For reference, here is a caspian damascus slide, but they want over $800 for the slide alone:

ts4Mopt.jpg
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Those are ONLY $800?
I would expect more.
Heck, I might expect that just for the machine time, let alone the cost of the billet.
Bargain.
 
I was gonna say I have the CAD for all of the parts, but I see you have that. I could ask my machinest if he would be interested. By the way, I might be interested in the second one if you need someone to go in with you.
 
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Although the steel doesn't have to be nearly as hard as a knife, I would say that this would definately be one instances where you would want PERFECT welds. I would also look into using something like a Bar-Sto barrel with a fully supported chamber and stick to factory .45 loads and not try anything like .45 Supe or .460 Rowland. As you are not going to be able to use damascus to make the exposed parts like the trigger, slide release, mag release, hammer, grip safety, thumb safety, extractor, etc, not to mention pins have you thought about which material they will be? The carbon steel stuff might not match up with your damascus even if etched and you might not want to etch tight fitting parts like pins. Stainless could either offer a cool contrast or be really garish.
 
steel parts , nitride blued ( check out Heriloom Precision guns ) would look awesome against a damascus slide and royal blue frame.
 
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