Damascus and Ringed Gidgee

While I am sure there are folks on the board who would like a mosaic pin I would prefer none at all. The pin distracts from the nice work you did around the guard.
 
I would be one that would like a mosaic pin.

I have no problem with the exposed pin that you did. Engraving would complement it.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Anthony Lombardo said:
While I am sure there are folks on the board who would like a mosaic pin I would prefer none at all. The pin distracts from the nice work you did around the guard.
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Interesting how opinions vary. Rather than the pin distracting form the guard, I see it as adding to the handle. Without the pin the handle would appear too plain or out of sink with the rest of the knife. A little engraving on the pin would also add IMO.
 
First of all, I wouldn't dare mix engraving with that fine filework. Too many textures and a knife gets too busy-especially damascus.

Fine wood is never too plain for my eyes.
 
I actually handled this knife and not to take anything away from Chuck's excellent photography, pictures certainly don't do this knife justice. It has just the right element of "nice or fanciness" yet still has that rugged or masculine appearance....what I prefer in a knife.
 
A mosaic pin would've been my first choice. But, the knife is damn gorgeous as it is. :thumbup:
 
How about a pin that is stainless with bronze center to go with the guard configuration?

WWG
President of Arbitrage Knives.
 
I actually considered drilling a tiny hole into the pin and filling it with bronze. That would meant taking the chance of screwing up the pin. Not that I have never done that! :rolleyes:
Anthony, I have made it my policy(?) to always have a pin, unless the pommel is mechanically attached to the tang. Yes, I know there are ways of effectively bonding the handle with less obtrusive methods. However I like the idea of someone being able to tell the general construction of my handles, just by looking. If there is a pommel and no pin, you can bet that I have it attached to the tang.
The piece of Ringed Gidgee was in block form which gave me the option of using a single pin, which I usually locate a little further back to about 3/5 position. Believe me, I will be studying every suggestion with the possblity of using it on another knife. I really like subtle contrast and deceptive simplicity. Making a knife allows this and more. Lin
 
lwrhea said:
I Anthony, I have made it my policy(?) to always have a pin, unless the pommel is mechanically attached to the tang. Yes, I know there are ways of effectively bonding the handle with less obtrusive methods. However I like the idea of someone being able to tell the general construction of my handles, just by looking. If there is a pommel and no pin, you can bet that I have it attached to the tang.
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I'm with you on that one Lin. Yikes - one page of discussion about the freakin' pin fer cryin' out loud. :D We are a particular bunch, aren't we? ;) I like it fine the way it is, but of all the alternate suggestions the one that really floats my boat would be incorporating the bronze / stainless steel blend done so beautifully in the rest of the fittings.

Roger
 
Thanks Anthony.
One thing I agree with you and everyone else: The little details make a huge difference. Lin:)
 
Doing the bronze in the pin would be easy, if you did it the following way from the start. You could use small steel tubing for the pin, as you would for a lanyard hole...Once it is set in the handle, you could then drill/ream it out to the size bronze pin that you'd put through it. This would allow you to use the steel tubing as a guide to keep everything centered. Just a random thought of mine.
 
Scott,
Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know of a supplier of such a small ss tubing? I realize I could use 1/4 inch lanyard tube, but it's kind of large for my taste. I would be interested in some 1/8 or 3/16 for such applications. That would give me the option of using matching materials to fill the center hole.
I dont really care for most mosaic pins. I've seen so many that seem mismatched to the theme of the knife. I guess what I'm saying is that if the pin is going to be more than just a pin, it needs to continue the rest of the knife's design features. Continuum. I better look that one up in Webster's.:)
Lin
 
I get my copper and brass tubing and pins in three foot lengths at True Value Hardware for my mosaic pins. I called them and they carry 3/16" steel brake line tubing in stock and can special order 1/8" steel brake line tubing also. The 1/8" requires the purchase a full coil (25').

There is a store near you at:

1000 N Rock St
Sheridan AR 72150-1802
Phone: 870-942-8811
stvhc@alltel.net
Distance: 8.79 miles

I hope that this helps. You might want to shop around. You might be able to find it less expensively at an automobile supply store.
 
Scott,
Thanks for the tip. :) I use that True Value often. I will check the next time I'm in there to see if the have it in stainless.

Lin
 
I like the pin better than no pin. Like you mentioned, no ambiguity. Bullseye, or mosaic, or plain--any of them work.

Coop
 
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