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Damascus: cut and stack, or fold?
- Thread starter Hell's Half Acre
- Start date
weo
Basic Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Messages
- 3,019
When I learned forge welding it was explained to me that you want to see flame outside of the opening of the forge (rich) because that means you're sending more fuel into the forge than there is available oxygen. Remember, the 3 things you need for a fire is: Heat, fuel and Oxygen.
Last edited:
jdm61
itinerant metal pounder
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2005
- Messages
- 47,357
I use kerosene. i have heard that Chris Marks uses diesel and others have used a particular type of "tool cleaner" that is sometimes valuable at Tractor supply.
- Joined
- May 2, 2004
- Messages
- 6,848
Sorry, I should have added some of the materials listed under hydrocarbon solvents. The above items are usable. We use K-1 kerosene and as Joe stated parts cleaner that can be purchased at Tractor supply.
The advantages I've found with HS is no scale build up on the steel layers, its ability to conform to odd shapes, its very clean in use, no air pollution.
I was taught to clean the steel surface to a bright finish. When the original billet is put together it is important to weld with two beads down both ends and at 1 inch intervals down both sides. The reason for this; HS forms a 1/16 to 1/8 inch solid carbon jacket around the billet; if the billet moves when the layers are made using thin strips, there is a possibility that the layers will move during heating causing the carbon jacket to "crack" letting oxygen inside the billet. Once the layers are thicker 1/2 or so, there is no need to weld the sides, just two welds on each end.
Also, you need a press to weld with HS; the weld must be made in one move. Try this if you have a press, it works really well.
Fred
The advantages I've found with HS is no scale build up on the steel layers, its ability to conform to odd shapes, its very clean in use, no air pollution.
I was taught to clean the steel surface to a bright finish. When the original billet is put together it is important to weld with two beads down both ends and at 1 inch intervals down both sides. The reason for this; HS forms a 1/16 to 1/8 inch solid carbon jacket around the billet; if the billet moves when the layers are made using thin strips, there is a possibility that the layers will move during heating causing the carbon jacket to "crack" letting oxygen inside the billet. Once the layers are thicker 1/2 or so, there is no need to weld the sides, just two welds on each end.
Also, you need a press to weld with HS; the weld must be made in one move. Try this if you have a press, it works really well.
Fred
I have done plenty of welding with borax, kerosene and with no flux at all. I have never seen anything like this fairly thick carbon jacket you are referring to. The fact that billets can be welded without any flux at all calls into question the need for hydro carbon solvent at all. I am not saying it does not work but welding in a reducing atmosphere, with all surfaces ground bright, clean and touching, many people have gotten forge welds without flux. anyone have similar or different experiences?