Damascus forging is hard work....

Joined
Nov 14, 2005
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Power hammer or not, damascus forging sure can tire a guy out. I just finished for the day on a new billet (started w/ 41 layers. 39 alternating bandsaw and banding strap with a bit of file on one end and some track spring on the other to hold it all together). I'm hoping to minimize the number of restack/reweld episodes on this one, so I plan to cut it into 4 pieces, restack, then do one more fold (328 layers for those counting...). I only got as far as most of the drawing out before the first cut and then I gave out. It's probably about 1 1/4"x1/2"x18' right now. It was about 1 1/4"x6"x3" or so to start.

I think the difference on this one was using tongs the whole time rather than welding on a handle (the welder was acting up and I didn't feel like messing w/ it today). I feel like somebody's been hitting me in the forearms with a baseball bat from the power hammer hitting back through the tongs.

What have you noticed makes your heavy forging harder or easier? At this point I'm thinking a hydraulic press would be AWFULLY nice... :)

-d
 
The press is a good addition to any smithy. Im spoiled now.

So, about how many heats would it take to draw something about 2 1/2"x1 1/4"x6" out to 1 1/4"x1/2" thick? I'm curious as to how much time I'll actually be looking at saving once I get a press built.

I bet I'll save a boatload on propane as well.

-d
 
So, about how many heats would it take to draw something about 2 1/2"x1 1/4"x6" out to 1 1/4"x1/2" thick? I'm curious as to how much time I'll actually be looking at saving once I get a press built.

I bet I'll save a boatload on propane as well.

-d

It may take about 15-20 minutes and about 6-8 heats but its almost effortless. One finger and a good set of tongs.
 
It may take about 15-20 minutes and about 6-8 heats but its almost effortless. One finger and a good set of tongs.

Man, thats a lot better than the few hours I spent today! :)

Are those squaring dies in the picture?

-d
 
im just glad you got some shop time in. also have oyu put much more thought to the first deker knife im planning on owning?
 
Deker,
Using tongs has a big effect on user tiredness. There are several operations where I only use tongs, sometimes with 15 pound billets. I only do one of these a day, with reason.
Use handles whenever you can, next time fix the welder first.
Del
 
Man, thats a lot better than the few hours I spent today! :)

Are those squaring dies in the picture?

-d

yes those are squaring dies. That box has one of the harley chains from Indian Geoge and a bunch of 1084 powder in it.
 
im just glad you got some shop time in. also have oyu put much more thought to the first deker knife im planning on owning?

Not yet, I've been more concentrated on the bowie I'm working on now (time constraints and all you know...). If you want, come get that blade blank and work up some drawings of your ideas for it.

-d
 
Deker,
Using tongs has a big effect on user tiredness. There are several operations where I only use tongs, sometimes with 15 pound billets. I only do one of these a day, with reason.
Use handles whenever you can, next time fix the welder first.
Del

I know I SHOULD have fixed the welder first, but sometimes you just gotta mash some hot steel ya know? :) I'm sure my thought process would be a LOT different if this was more than just a hobby for me. I get to go recouperate in an office today, so I don't HAVE to go bak into the shop this morning...much as I'd prefer to be back in the shop....

-d
 
Not having a power hammer I was wondering if when the welder is fixed you could make an attachment rod with a heavy spring (valve spring) near the operators end to take out some of the shock
 
Deker,

If you are getting reverb through the tongs even on a power hammer then there is something wrong. The tongs may not fit right or you are not holding the stock square on the hammer dies. The handle welded on makes it much easier to control. If you cannot weld one on then you may try to forge the end to fit your tongs.

Have fun
Chuck
 
Tong rings will also help, that way you won't spend as much effort just keeping the tongs closed.
Ken
 
Deker,

If you are getting reverb through the tongs even on a power hammer then there is something wrong. The tongs may not fit right or you are not holding the stock square on the hammer dies. The handle welded on makes it much easier to control. If you cannot weld one on then you may try to forge the end to fit your tongs.

I know it's partly a wrong angle on the dies from time to time. My hammer is short and the anvil is pretty low so it's a little difficult sometimes to keep things straight and the billet will bounce around a bit. Sometimes that's a sign that it's time to line the dies up again and tighten everythig down as well.

I've never really done any heavy work on any hammer but my little Kerrihard, and it's a bit old and rickety. One of these days I'll tear it all down and rebuild it, but for now, it runs well so I'm using it! I hope to get a chance in a few weeks to use one of John Larson's Iron Kiss hammers (he's a member of my blacksmith guild and loans us a couple of hammers every year for our annual hammer-in...there's a Saturday night session to play with them. I just never had anything big to bang on before :D). I'm curious how much is me and how much is the old, short, shakey hammer :)

IronWolf said:
Tong rings will also help, that way you won't spend as much effort just keeping the tongs closed.

Good point, I hadn't thought of it until you mentioned it, but I was having to grip pretty tight. I'll make some tong rings first thing when I get into the 'smithy this afternoon.

-d
 
My powerhammer is also a little low. I picked up a trick from a German smith, put a chair in front of your hammer, and sit down while running it. you can get really good control of the foot pedal, and you have a better angle to see what you are doing. just make sure you are wearing a leather apron. Scale in a lap is no fun.

Ken
 
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