Daniel Fairly's Q&A thread

I don't say it often enough, but thanks again you guys! I have learned more in DFK's subforum then any other place on the 'net when it comes to knife making (and even a bit about life). You guys are the best kept secret in knife making today.
 
shhhhhh, don't tell anyone. :D

Daniel, you got any advise on etching a hamon? Feel free to call me if you don't want to type.
 
Thanks!

Hamon etching - I like ferric chloride diluted with three parts distilled water and a few drops of dish soap. Lemon juice can work nicely too.

Etch, sand... repeat as you work your way up the steps. I'd try to finish somewhere between 600-1000 grit. 600 will give you a nice look and 1000 will bring out more clouds. Try sanding above or below the hamon, 0000 steel wool, flitz... I like to bring out some contrast with acid (scid then sand over many cycles) then use Flitz to polish the bright part.

Nick Wheeler has an incredible tutorial on hamon etching he has done here... check that out for sure. His info is way better than mine!
 
I recently had a friend who knew I really wanted a small fixed from Jon Graham, get me one at an amazing price. It has ironwood scales, any tips for what I should put on the ironwood now and then for maintenance. I plan on putting this into carry rotation after we move? (I can barely carry anything in NYC)

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Very nice!

I'd wipe it down with Mineral Oil from time to time, it works great. I hear Teak Oil and Lemon Oil work well too. If you use Mineral Oil you can wipe down the blade too.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Hey D, can you share your HT routine for CPM 154? Also what do you recommend I use for a dry ice slush?
Click to expand...

I like a medium temp and long soak time... 1950 F for 30 minutes. Plate quench to hand cool, water cool, dry ice/alcohol slurry for 2 hours, 400-450 F temper, water cool, dry ice again for 30 minutes, 400-450 again for 2 hours

I'd use the dry ice slurry for sure, the knife will still be good without it but the dry ice adds toughness and edge holding with no real tradeoff as more good stuff is converted over. :) No dry ice will give you more grouping with the carbides which can be good with a toothy edge or rope.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Hey D, can you share your HT routine for CPM 154? Also what do you recommend I use for a dry ice slush?
Click to expand...

I like a medium temp and long soak time... 1950 F for 30 minutes. Plate quench to hand cool, water cool, dry ice/alcohol slurry for 2 hours, 400-450 F temper, water cool, dry ice again for 30 minutes, 400-450 again for 2 hours

I'd use the dry ice slurry for sure, the knife will still be good without it but the dry ice adds toughness and edge holding with no real tradeoff as more good stuff is converted over. :) No dry ice will give you more grouping with the carbides which can be good with a toothy edge or rope.
 
flatblackcapo said:
Thanks, D!
Do you ever do a pre heat ?
Should 1 gal. of alcohol be enough?
Click to expand...

I have two kilns and preheat one at 950-1250 depending in the steel. If I can keep any transition to less than 1000 F that is good. A lot of the tool steels and stainless like a 1250 pre-heat.

Pre-heat isn't really needed especially if you want to get the most put of one kiln... I'd rather go into a kiln that has been cycling for 30 minutes at temp than start cool and slowly heat, no question. The reason for this is that it is much more important to go into a stable temp and not overheat than heat slowly.

1 gal denatured alcohol - plenty... I use about 1/2 quart per 5# dry ice. You want a thick slurry. The next day after the ice has evaporated you can pour the alcohol back and re-use it. I keep everything in a thick styrofoam cooler and use a stainless trough made for drywall mud to hold everything in. I cover with fiberglass insulation just because I can. Put the knife into the slurry evenly and straight just like an oil quench.
 
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