- Joined
- Dec 18, 2008
- Messages
- 760
Hello All,
this is another installment of my struggle to make a goosequill dao.
28" sanmei. Aldo's 1075 and 15n20 outter plates, 200 layers each. Aldo's W2 (thanks Aldo!) for the center plate.
I still have to put in the false-edge. I am trying to decide between a complete false-edge or a blind one. I like the blind but I may not have left enough material to pull this off.
This one has survived quenching in Heatbath 50 (formerly Parks). It has also been tempered once, and gone through some focal heating and straightening.
I need to cut the little fullers a tad deeper, but will do that after 2 more tempers.
Here it is, in all of it's just heat treated and tempered hot ugliness.
The fullers will look better when I add the false-edge. I like this style of fullering (same as last one). They don't look their best until the false edge is added to accent the area.
If you look really closely, you can just see the pattern. I think the pattern will be larger than I wanted, but still will be nice. I was in doubt whether a sanmei like this would look like a traditional 400 layer pattern, or if each plate having only 200 makes it look more like a traditional 200 layer pattern.
I am going to test the bejesus out of this one after I temper twice more.
I am going to temper at 500 and 525. That is supposed to set the w2 at about RC 58 and the 1075 at about RC 54-55. I will then give the spine another heat with propane torch. I have an oxy acet torch, but the little propane bottles are better for this for me because I am less likely to really overheat. I only have a #3 tip for the oxy torch.
As always, comments, tips, design ideas about how to make sword or its fittings (especially its fittings), are encouraged.
thanks,
Kevin
this is another installment of my struggle to make a goosequill dao.
28" sanmei. Aldo's 1075 and 15n20 outter plates, 200 layers each. Aldo's W2 (thanks Aldo!) for the center plate.
I still have to put in the false-edge. I am trying to decide between a complete false-edge or a blind one. I like the blind but I may not have left enough material to pull this off.
This one has survived quenching in Heatbath 50 (formerly Parks). It has also been tempered once, and gone through some focal heating and straightening.
I need to cut the little fullers a tad deeper, but will do that after 2 more tempers.
Here it is, in all of it's just heat treated and tempered hot ugliness.
The fullers will look better when I add the false-edge. I like this style of fullering (same as last one). They don't look their best until the false edge is added to accent the area.
If you look really closely, you can just see the pattern. I think the pattern will be larger than I wanted, but still will be nice. I was in doubt whether a sanmei like this would look like a traditional 400 layer pattern, or if each plate having only 200 makes it look more like a traditional 200 layer pattern.
I am going to test the bejesus out of this one after I temper twice more.
I am going to temper at 500 and 525. That is supposed to set the w2 at about RC 58 and the 1075 at about RC 54-55. I will then give the spine another heat with propane torch. I have an oxy acet torch, but the little propane bottles are better for this for me because I am less likely to really overheat. I only have a #3 tip for the oxy torch.
As always, comments, tips, design ideas about how to make sword or its fittings (especially its fittings), are encouraged.
thanks,
Kevin