Dare to wave

I thought of something like that, except that you machine a dovetail cutout into the spine, then craft a wave with an interlocking piece that fits into the dovetail, and epoxy it.

That sounds like it would work but i'd try it on something else before I went to a Sebenza with it.
 
How did you loosen the thumbstud?
 
It was a problem. Despite I heated it, I stripped the head. Fortunately BM customer support is great and I got spare one.
 
I've got a Rukus. I've gotten the thumbstud loose, but it doesn't seem to come out. It's just spinning in place.
 
I've got a Rukus. I've gotten the thumbstud loose, but it doesn't seem to come out. It's just spinning in place.

You need to hold the other side. One side is the screw and one side is the nut. They tighten up on the blade so that it doesn't move.
 
I've got a Rukus. I've gotten the thumbstud loose, but it doesn't seem to come out. It's just spinning in place.

I'm not sure about Rukus, but in BM710 thumbstud consists of two parts, screwed together. If it's loose in socket it doesn't mean you loosen the thread.
 
All this time I had been using cut off wheels on my dremel and finishing with sanding drums. Recently, I got a small belt grinder and have been doing them much easier that way. You can see how I do it by clicking my youtube link on my sig line. Look for waving a kerambit.
 
I have no idea what that means.
 
I have no idea what that means.

EDM= electron discharge machining. It's an extremely precise way of cutting metal with a high energy beam. I know the HT of the blade would be irrelevant to EDM, but I don't know if you can thread with one.

Morse taper= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper

If you EDM at taper into the blade you could wedge in a wave pin (maybe with a little loctite) and not worry about the HT either.
 
Keep in mind I only have a 1x42 grinder and 2 dremels. Nothng else. Practicing primitive.
 
I believe Emerson has offered a fixed blade with a 'wave.' Say it ain't so, Ernie!

I seem to recall reading that the Wave Feature was originally intended as a blade catcher/breaker, not for opening. In that context it would make sense on a fixed blade.

(Of course, if your plan includes "catch and break enemy's knife using this small protrusion near my wrist" I'd suggest you change your plan!)
 
You need to hold the other side. One side is the screw and one side is the nut. They tighten up on the blade so that it doesn't move.

Got it. Now I just need to find a clip to use as a wave.

Genius is right! What an innovative idea. :)

So innovative, in fact, that I dropped by my hardware store and picked up a few c-clips in different sizes to try out on my full-size Rukus 610.

Imagine my frustration when -- all settled back, ready to make the mod -- and the thumb stud will not budge!

It appears you loosened the stud somewhat in order to slide the c-clip under it and then retightened. If so, how in the world did you accomplish this miracle?!

This is what I've tried:
1) The BM Blue Box. Junk and now ruined.
2) Apply a butane flame for ~30 seconds and then use needle nose pliers to twist loose. It wouldn't budge.
3) A heat-gun applied in the same manner as the butane torch, still no luck.
4) A call to Benchmade, who claimed the studs are "one piece" and cannot be loosened or removed.

Can you please give me any tips or tricks? I'm out of ideas and really frustrated...:mad:

Thanks!
David

From an old post on the subject, looks like #4 has just been disproved for the Rukus 610 studs.
 
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A Charlie Mike'd Sebenza??:eek:

On a side note, a Seb with a Spyderhole is my grail knife.

and please no references to the Taiwan Sage being anywhere near sebenza quality and tolerances
 
thought i got duped after liking the first post and then realizing its an 8 year old thread. then saw the reanimator was cm. now i dont feel so bad liking a 8 year old thread.

i liked your old standards better. no wave on crk.:)
 
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