@David Mary creations

It's only an idea at this point, which I drew up in the last hour or two, in response to being asked what I could come up with that would compare favorable with the RMJ Combat Africa.

Mine is similar blade shape, except with a subtle swell toward the belly and about an inch more blade to give it some extra oomf in the chop. Not sure what the RMJ tang looks like under the scales, but I designed this one skeletonized so it can chop above it weight class due to the blank's forward balance. Depending on customer requests, between grinding and handle configuration I should be able to move the balance point anywhere from a couple inches ahead of the guard, to just ahead of the forefinger groove. Probably looking at 1/4" stock for the "lead pipe" effect. Kind of a bear to grind, but once I get it to near zero and put a newsprint slicing edge on, it will be beautiful and terrifying.

The guard is set up to allow a less cramped saber grip than what the Combat Africa looks to allow from the pics I have seen, while also locking the hand in better on account of the pronounced swell. This would take either lightweight materials like wood, Micarta, or Grip-Tec™ with sculpted coke bottley scales, or perhaps heavier and flatter materials like smooth or textured Suretouch, or textured G10.

Scales would fully cover the guard in a straight line so that sheath mating can be accomplished by grabbing the scale material, and the primary grind, as a result would, be diagonal, parallel with the edge of the scales. Also this would add comfort to the saber grip in that your thumb is pushing against not only the tang thumb ramp, but also the scale material, which will be well chamfered. It can be done with a crowned spine, a sharp spine, and with sharpened, unsharpened or no swedge.

And it didn't have a name, but since you asked while I was working on this, why not call it that. :)

If this becomes a reality, I'd guess we're looking at 2026.
 
It's only an idea at this point, which I drew up in the last hour or two, in response to being asked what I could come up with that would compare favorable with the RMJ Combat Africa.

Mine is similar blade shape, except with a subtle swell toward the belly and about an inch more blade to give it some extra oomf in the chop. Not sure what the RMJ tang looks like under the scales, but I designed this one skeletonized so it can chop above it weight class due to the blank's forward balance. Depending on customer requests, between grinding and handle configuration I should be able to move the balance point anywhere from a couple inches ahead of the guard, to just ahead of the forefinger groove. Probably looking at 1/4" stock for the "lead pipe" effect. Kind of a bear to grind, but once I get it to near zero and put a newsprint slicing edge on, it will be beautiful and terrifying.

The guard is set up to allow a less cramped saber grip than what the Combat Africa looks to allow from the pics I have seen, while also locking the hand in better on account of the pronounced swell. This would take either lightweight materials like wood, Micarta, or Grip-Tec™ with sculpted coke bottley scales, or perhaps heavier and flatter materials like smooth or textured Suretouch, or textured G10.

Scales would fully cover the guard in a straight line so that sheath mating can be accomplished by grabbing the scale material, and the primary grind, as a result would, be diagonal, parallel with the edge of the scales. Also this would add comfort to the saber grip in that your thumb is pushing against not only the tang thumb ramp, but also the scale material, which will be well chamfered. It can be done with a crowned spine, a sharp spine, and with sharpened, unsharpened or no swedge.

And it didn't have a name, but since you asked while I was working on this, why not call it that. :)

If this becomes a reality, I'd guess we're looking at 2026.

Wow!

I've said so many times that I only buy American. I'm going to set some money aside for something from your shop.
 
Almost all my money spent on materials, waterjet, heat treatment, etc., is spent supporting American businesses or individuals. Even the materials I buy from Curtis at Canadian knife maker supply, he first imported from the USA. You don't have to choose between buying a knife from me and supporting the American economy; you'd do both in the same transaction.
 
You could also consider buying from a dealer who carries some pieces I've made. New River Knife Works and Empire Outfitters are both run by Americans who are stand up family men. NRKW still has several of the couple dozen or so River Hawks I made for him a couple years ago, and Empire has a wide variety of models in at least three or four alloys. Both are American, and both are Bladeforums supporting dealers.
 
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