DC4 -- ridges on ceramic side?!?

zyhano said:
please re-read that quote by me.

Guys, with all respect to you all, but I have no trouble sharpening on my dc-4 with the ridges present. Maybe it's because it's a smaller stone that some have trouble with it.
I do agree that the stone should be flat. there is no reason for those ridges. QC must go a step up.

I find the first answer that is stated here by Jack shen strange. Jack, are those the exact words of fallkniven company, since I doubt that?
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yeah that's exactly what I sent them, and their response. I submitted the question through their site: http://www.fallkniven.com/en/contact

wouldn't make some junk up and post it.
 
So what's someone supposed to do if they don't have a diamond hone to smooth out the ceramic? Fallkniven owes us another DC4/DC3 to use the diamond side of one to smooth out the ceramic side on the other. I'm serious.

I got the same line as others did from Peter Hjortberger at Fallkniven. I'm pretty much numb to being lied to and screwed over by companies and corporations. I might bring this thread to Peter's attention, but it would surprise me if he did anything about it or even cared. Ultimately I have bigger fish to fry, so I'm not gonna waste any more time or energy on this turd of a product from what I now consider a suspect company.... the ridges are for aligning the burr or breaking it off:eek:! WTF!?!

:thumbdn:to Fallkniven on this one. I'm not saying they don't make good knives, or that they haven't treated customers right in the past and won't in the future, but in this case...:rolleyes:
 
KarlMaldensNose said:
So what's someone supposed to do if they don't have a diamond hone to smooth out the ceramic?
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There is a couple of ways you can lap the Sapphire side.

Rough grit Silicon-carbide paper on a plane of glass is one way. Use lots of water.

The other way is to take the two sides apart. This is done by soaking the stone in hot soapy water, or alternatively, by spraying it with some WD40.
Oil and warm water both act as a solvent and soften the glue. This is why they tell you not to use oil on diamond stones. Glue it back together with superglue.
 
zyhano said:
Ok. It's a strange thing to say by the fallkniven company then, can't make anything out of it. Seems like it's the intern speaking or something...
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yeah, it's like he didn't even read my email, seems like a very scripted response, or even an automated response :confused:

What I really wanted to know is, whether or not there was a design reason for the ridges, like what's their purpose if any at all?
 
tabeeb762 said:
There is a couple of ways you can lap the Sapphire side.

Rough grit Silicon-carbide paper on a plane of glass is one way. Use lots of water.

The other way is to take the two sides apart. This is done by soaking the stone in hot soapy water, or alternatively, by spraying it with some WD40.
Oil and warm water both act as a solvent and soften the glue. This is why they tell you not to use oil on diamond stones. Glue it back together with superglue.
Click to expand...


That's really cool, I did not know you could separate the layers like that.
Now I know that's it's possible I may try taking the yellow side off a DC4 and glueing it to a fine spyderco pocket stone, that is if their dimensions will match up .... that'd be rather cool if they did
 
once the ceramic side is lapped why gluing it to a spyderco UF ? the gap is going to be bigger between the diamonds and the ceramic. you'll never polish the scratches from the diamond side (wich is already tedious with dc4's ceramic) and the finish on mine is nice enough for touchups on the field.
 
tabeeb762 said:
There is a couple of ways you can lap the Sapphire side.

Rough grit Silicon-carbide paper on a plane of glass is one way. Use lots of water.

The other way is to take the two sides apart. This is done by soaking the stone in hot soapy water, or alternatively, by spraying it with some WD40.
Oil and warm water both act as a solvent and soften the glue. This is why they tell you not to use oil on diamond stones. Glue it back together with superglue.
Click to expand...

Thank-you for so much helpful advice. Fallkniven might consider using this as their 'stock' response to questions regarding the DC series ceramic issues.:thumbup:
 
Another alternative that worked well for me was to just use the stone til the ridges wore in on their own. Mine works great, after using it a couple times the stone breaks in on its own.

With that said, I think pre-breaking it in with a diamond stone might be a good idea, but to be honest I don't think the ridges are much of a problem, as long as the stone surface is still level I think it works fine.
 
I bought mine bout a week+ ago and it was smooth with a few circular marks but it has small bumps in it, not ridges but really irregularly placed bumps so its really obvious its a manufacturing problem. I guess they will get ground down after some use, and they dont seem damage the blade (although they leave little scratch marks).
 
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