Dealing with warped micarta

D

Don Nguyen

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Oct 4, 2011
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I got some paper micarta a little while ago, and it's warped. I'm finishing up the project soon, and there shouldn't bee too many issues this time around, but in the future, are there ways to correct the warp?

The piece 1/8" thick, 10" long. The warp is about 1/8" wide.
 
I've bought a lot of micarta that wasn't anywhere near being flat. I check it and sand it flat on the epoxy side before I epoxy everything up.
 
There's no way I'd be able to get this thing flat by sanding. The warp is as significant as the thickness as the piece itself.

Normally I'd do what you suggested but for this piece it's pretty thin, and I'm using the whole length. I bypassed the issue this time through some clever clamp trickery, but it would be nice if there were an alternative method.

EDIT: On a different note, I am not liking working with this ivory paper micarta at all. Never again. It's like, melting in some spots or SOMETHING, and peeling the layers off in some odd areas. I'm using fresh belts and a slow, slow speed. Didn't have these issues with black paper micarta. Plus, it stains.
 
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I'd send it back then. Since it was warped as bad as you say, and seeing how you're having other problems with it, it may have come from a bad batch. The most I've had a slab warped was probably about 1/16th.

When I use paper micarta, I have to use lots of lubricant while sanding and wipe away often plus I have to take it to a much higher grit to get the results I want.
 
Send it back if you are worried about it, but if you clamp it on the blade blank with epoxy and pins/ screws you'd probably never know it was warped at all.
 
Don, from the little I've already seen of your work and the respect I have for it, I would throw what you have out and get some new. Frank
 
Frank, thanks for that, much appreciated! I can't at this point though. Some of the micarta is already sandwiched between handle material that I can't remove. It's just taken much more time and patience working with it, but it has finished up ok. It just doesn't accept ANY loading on the belts/paper, but I had to switch to hand tools and keep them as fresh as possible.

I'll check with the dealer to see if this is is normal behavior for this material, but it just doesn't work like any other micarta I have used. I probably won't be using it again though.
 
Don, Frank is right, if you can help it you should not have anything to do with phenolic that bad. Some of it just sucks. The white paper I've worked with has mostly been very good, but I had some that split easily too.

I machine phenolics whenever possible, rather than grinding to shape. I really hate how it clogs belts, heats up and burns. Milling it is much better, and gets you much closer to flat as well. Even turning it on a wood lathe is possible with patience.
 
Salem Straub said:
Don, Frank is right, if you can help it you should not have anything to do with phenolic that bad. Some of it just sucks. The white paper I've worked with has mostly been very good, but I had some that split easily too.

I machine phenolics whenever possible, rather than grinding to shape. I really hate how it clogs belts, heats up and burns. Milling it is much better, and gets you much closer to flat as well. Even turning it on a wood lathe is possible with patience.
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Thanks Salem. I'll definitely be testing the waters with new materials in the future. It was my mistake to rush it and slap it on the knife before getting an idea on its condition.

I just completed the knife, and it definitely feels and looks good; took a lot more patience and paper.
 
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