Amen to that brother david. I've read of pros getting harpooned and dying.
I kind of break out in chills just thinking about it.
wot? y'all don't wear full body armour when you are working with power driven rotary machinery?
i personally prefer:
with OSHA approved safety glasses of course.
The buffer: the most dangerous tool in the shop. People are usually super-careful around table saws and other power cutters, but the buffer just lies in wait for you like a crocodile hiding at the water's edge.
NOPE! Yall are all rong! The most dangerous tool in my shop is the refrigerator! One six pack of Guinness draft and a twelve pack of SN IPA! and maybe some other "stuff". A shop rag aint safe after them tools get used!
What are the chances that puncture resistant fencing gear will stop a blade accelerated by a buffer?
Would safe me from having to buy big leather aprons and what not and is probably stronger too.[/Q
Absolutely Zero. A preformed 32 ounce fighting weapon caught of guard and you're toast. I now use Kevlar. It does nothing against puncture wounds as such.
The masks we use supposedly stop a sword of 2.5 pounds purposefully thrusted at it while maintaining great visibility. I hoped a bit less aimed, flying knife would deflect more easily but yes it's probably sharper and pointier than our training long swords.
What kind of kevlar protection do you wear? Flak Jacket type? And what kind of head gear do you suggest?
Sorry, complete topic drift but very interesting, the usual at HI forums )
My chainsaw chaps are fluorescent orange camouflage. I get a lot of comments whenever I wear them, but safety first! I'm not at all confident that the would stop a kukri, but they are way better than jeans.
The masks are made mainly from steel wire mesh. Some people try to drive nails through it with a hammer to see if they are strong enough. I still don't trust them all the way. A flying Kukri is probably pushing it depending on the buffers power.Well I guess Kevlar can be used in many ways. I should only speak about chainsaw protection since that's what I know the most about. I wear the bib overalls. When a spinning chain encounters the fibers, it tears them loose and binds the chain and sprocket of even the largest chainsaws before it can go deep enough to cut you. I wear a regulation Husqvarna helmet with an incorporated shield and hearing protection, steel toed boots and Kevlar padded gloves. No, I don't look as cool as if I were wearing my Filson Flannel but, I've seen chainsaw cuts. Actually, they're not cuts, they remove furrows of flesh and bone. That said, I have some 137cc gear drive saws pulling 60" bars and full 1/2" chisel chain. I don't think there's enough Kevlar in a garment to bind one in time. However, they are so big and heavy kick back is a near impossiblity and the biggest cause of injury besides hot dogging. For 100cc and under clutch driven saws they work very well. They don't work on electric chainsaws at all, glad I don't own one.
The masks are made mainly from steel wire mesh. Some people try to drive nails through it with a hammer to see if they are strong enough. I still don't trust them all the way. A flying Kukri is probably pushing it depending on the buffers power.
Kevlar blocking the chain sounds interesting. :-o
I've only played with Stihl saws when fixing them as a summer job during high school 20 or so years ago. Still remember some part numbers.
ImpressiveI've resurrected all brands of chainsaws made from the 50's to current. My favorites are old school when torque ruled over RPM. Of those, Homelite, McCullough and Stihl are some of my favorites. The 048, 051, 056, 066, 076, 084, 088 and 090 being at the top of the list. I have a McCullough SP125 powered by a 101b cart motor that's hard to compete with even with woods modded saws.
A house full of chainsaws, knives, swords, guns and cameras. I guess it's fruitless to deny my Germanic heritage. Oh, I forgot the bear rugs and taxidermy mounts, I guess that takes it to home plate.