Deals for 7/5 -- Foxy Folly, Hasiya and Great Buys

Yangdu

Yangdu

Himalayan Imports Owner ~ himimp@aol.com
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FOXY FOLLY BY YOUNG SHER KAMI

Overall length --17''
Weight --27 oz
Spine thickness 3/8''
Satisal wood handle
White metal fittings
Western style leather sheath
Take this beauty home today for $190. *SOLD*

14 inch 18 ounce Seax by Dil Kami. Horn handle. Sharp blade.
Great value at $85. *SOLD*

13 5/8'' 18 ounce Hasiya by Chainpuri Kami. Horn handle. Perfect gift for your loved one at $95. *SOLD*

15 inch 19 ounce BAS Knife by Dharan Kami. Bayar wood handle. Standard leather leather scabbard. Unique gift for your friend at $75. *SOLD*

Email to get any or all
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15 inch 19 ounce BAS Knife by Dharan Kami. Bayar wood handle. Standard leather leather scabbard. Unique gift for your friend at $75.

:D
 
I've been wanting a bigger BAS in wood, which seems very hard to come by, but this package is simply too gorgeous to let pass. :cool::thumbup::)
 
Bayar is some nice looking wood, consider sanding and refinishing it a bit when you get it to really gt it to glow.

I am really liking these "Western" rigs/sheaths a lot.

I suppose I will miss yet another Hasiya and a real beauty too... Oh well :(
 
I like the military frogs on the scabbard and the tan leather adds a nice touch :thumbup:

I'll be on the lookout for another one of these ;)
 
Isn't it better if the Hasiya did not have that abrupt "cho"? I think it would be better if the kamis ground it less "sharp" but more rounded. Just a thought.
 
Cotherion said:
Isn't it better if the Hasiya did not have that abrupt "cho"? I think it would be better if the kamis ground it less "sharp" but more rounded. Just a thought.
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Better for what? :confused:

I really liked the way this one looked myself, but with the Mini Tarwar, I am completely tapped until next payday.
 
warty said:
Better for what? :confused:

I really liked the way this one looked myself, but with the Mini Tarwar, I am completely tapped until next payday.
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I am not sure how to phrase it... You know when there is a sharp cut, like on the choil-like place or the cho? That is not soo good cause it is a sharp angle and concentrates stress. If they rounded it off then I think it would be better. Imagine whalloping accidentally a rock when you are out trimming your grass. Of course aside from the fact you have probably chipped your blade but if the force was big and the rock was the embedded I-ain't-moving-try-me kind then I kinda like to know my blade ain't gonna (in likelyhood) break there.

Better for what? Good question. I don't know :)

It's a kind of thing that i have, I kinda like if when a small change was made it'll have great benefits. The kind of changes that won't cost a bomb or make the knifemaker's life difficult.

Sure the Hasiya has enough metal there and is super thick (I am guessing most HI blades are fat like my HI khuks :)) and most likely I could chop trees all day for years without fear of breaking it there but as I said, small changes for some benefits at no change in cost (I assume) or amount of workmanship (I still assume).
 
Also I'm only sad that I'm also tapped out. I want a Gelbu Special, I want a Tarwar, I want a Rose (for my wife :)), I want a Ultimate Fighter, I want ...........

But I'm young and poor. In time I'll amass my dream collection and it'll be passed on to my kids and to my kids' kids and to......

Better than stamp collecting :)
 
Cotherion said:
Isn't it better if the Hasiya did not have that abrupt "cho"? I think it would be better if the kamis ground it less "sharp" but more rounded. Just a thought.
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I am guessing that you are referring to potential stress risers that can be created by sharp corners on on a knife? That is a valid observation, but as long as there is a small radius at the base of that cutout it should be OK. IMHO:)
 
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Beautiful Hasiya & scabbard, and I like the Foxy Folly's karda: now THAT'S a secondary blade!
 
ArchAngel said:
I am guessing that you are referring to potential stress risers that can be created by sharp corners on on a knife? That is a valid observation, but as long as there is a small radius at the base of that cutout it should be OK. IMHO:)
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I agree, if it had a small curve then be better than sharp corner. However the change in material cross-section increased dramatically at that point. Meaning the strength of the section changes abruptly at that point. It'll be better for a larger curve to make the strength change be more gradual.

I personally am not too sure how this works before. Until a kindly mechanical engineer who visited my plant in the past educated me on abrupt change of section dimensions being not such a good thing.

warty said:
I get you Cotherion and I appreciate the explanation. ;)
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Glad to have a chance to blah blah on, especially on a topic I like :)

Actually been looking at it again and I've been thinking, would it work as a blade catcher where a blade enters that "cho" and you twist to break off the blade? Could it work? Not too familiar with knife fighting to see if it's possible.

Question: is the brass sections above and below the handle of the Hasiya solid brass pieces? Not wrapped in brass or it is a solid piece?
 
never heard of one breaking thru the cho, they are more likely to break at the transition between the blade and the tang which gets more stress, a good radius there is better. the few that have broken at the tang have either been bad heat treatment or forging errors where there is an inclusion or a bad welding of layers at the tang junction. if you are still worried, there are models with closed cho. however, the cho on a khukuri isn't going to fail unless there happens to be a pre-existing crack in the car spring it was made from which just happened to go thru the 'weak' spot. the chos are not in the hardened area of the blade and cracking is thus unlikely.

the 'blade breaker' theory is probably a myth, trying to catch an opponents blade in the notch that close to your hand would be difficult,especially in battle conditions. there are some european 'blade breaker' left handed daggers,
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similar to this reproduction above, but they were used more to trap the opposing rapier blade rather than break it, giving you time to get your own thrust in. i've read where they did try to actually snap a rapier blade and usually the dagger failed first. the notches, even tho rounded are too great a discontinuity.

as a historical note (i am a marine engineer amongst other things) early all welded ww2 era ships were initially built with cargo hatches with square corners. they were faster to make that way. they found that in actual use the ships tended to crack in half. the cracks always started in the sharp corner's weld, ran across the deck and down the side. these were amongst the first all welded ships, earlier ones had mostly riveted joints and cracks would stop at the physical discontinuity. the cure was to round the hatch corners, and add a crack arrester riveted joint at the sheer strake (upper steel plate on the hull). the notch effect is responsible for a great proportion of cracks in structures, radiused corners, fillets is the main cure. abrupt transitions are frowned on.
 
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