Deciding on a Khukuri.. WW2 Model?

T

TheManiot

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Mar 24, 2014
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Hi everyone!

I'm looking at Khukuri options and was wondering what you all thought about the WW2 Model? It seems to be the perfect length and as the website states, a great balance between fighting and chopping/utility purposes.

Does anyone have one they'd like to talk about? Does it have a full tang or a stick tang?
 
If full tang is important to you, check out the chiruwa ang khola. I think that's the only one on the website with a full tang. I actually like the regular tang better though. I have 16.5" versions of both and although the website lists the CAK as being the heavier of the two, mine are the opposite. My WWII has a more obtuse edge angle as well. Both are great all-around blades, though. As superficial as it is, I prefer the CAK just because I like the look of the fullers.

Edit: M43 also has the full "chiruwa" stlye tang.
 
philllll said:
If full tang is important to you, check out the chiruwa ang khola. I think that's the only one on the website with a full tang. I actually like the regular tang better though. I have 16.5" versions of both and although the website lists the CAK as being the heavier of the two, mine are the opposite. My WWII has a more obtuse edge angle as well. Both are great all-around blades, though. As superficial as it is, I prefer the CAK just because I like the look of the fullers.

Edit: M43 also has the full "chiruwa" stlye tang.
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Very interesting, thank you for the reply. Am I correct in my understanding that the Chiruwa Ang Khola is heavier than the WW2? Is that only due to having a full tang? How about the weight of the M43 vs Chiruwa AK?

I must admit that I really like the look of the blade profile of the WW2. Does the WW2 blade profile lend itself better to fighting than the M43?
 
The CAK is generally heavier than the WWII, but these being handmade, weights can vary a lot. My WWII is heavier than my CAK, although my CAK is lighter than the norm. I don't have experience with the M43. The chriuwa handle adds a bit of weight but not a lot. The weight difference is more in how thick & wide the blade is. Can't speak to which is better for fighting as I'm not into that, but there are a few martial artists around here who could answer that one. The WWII and M43 are both interpretations of military-issue knives, so fighting was part of the intended purpose of both designs.
 
philllll said:
The CAK is generally heavier than the WWII, but these being handmade, weights can vary a lot. My WWII is heavier than my CAK, although my CAK is lighter than the norm. I don't have experience with the M43. The chriuwa handle adds a bit of weight but not a lot. The weight difference is more in how thick & wide the blade is. Can't speak to which is better for fighting as I'm not into that, but there are a few martial artists around here who could answer that one. The WWII and M43 are both interpretations of military-issue knives, so fighting was part of the intended purpose of both designs.
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Ah I just saw that the WW2 was a newer design than the M43. I'm inclined to go with that one, though I suppose I'm hoping I can have a WW2 model with a full tang.

I hope I can get my hands on some Khukuri models before purchasing!
 
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I don't think there'd be a huge difference between the two as weapons, except that the m43 usually is pointier. That being said you can thrust with almost any khuk-a smart thrust is headed for soft stuff anyway...
I have an 18" Gelbu special that is one of the crossover tool/weapon designs, and I think I remember seeing a thread recommending it as a first khuk. 18 is pretty big to hump around, though. I'd love to see a 16".
The WW2 size is very nice to work with- I got a noname 16" a while ago and the ergonomics are pretty ideal.
The tang (through vs chiruwa/full tang) isn't so important unless you intend to pry with it. The balance of the through tang blades is better IMO.
 
J W Bensinger said:
I don't think there'd be a huge difference between the two as weapons, except that the m43 usually is pointier. That being said you can thrust with almost any khuk-a smart thrust is headed for soft stuff anyway...
I have an 18" Gelbu special that is one of the crossover tool/weapon designs, and I think I remember seeing a thread recommending it as a first khuk. 18 is pretty big to hump around, though. I'd love to see a 16".
The WW2 size is very nice to work with- I got a noname 16" a while ago and the ergonomics are pretty ideal.
The tang (through vs chiruwa/full tang) isn't so important unless you intend to pry with it. The balance of the through tang blades is better IMO.
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Thank you for the advice. The 16.5inch WW2 seems very ideal for me. As for prying? I'm not sure I guess I might not use it for that, but it would be handy being able to do so. But of course, that is not at all covered in the warranty. I suppose I just like the look of the Chiruwa style too.
 
As someone who has some minimal experience with Khuks as weapons though I know there are others here who probably have more experience. I would say that it depends entirely on your style and your envisioned usage. I personally prefer the longer thinner blades for fighting face to face so my preference is more towards a Siru or a Kobra or even a Malla are my first choice for fighting. A WWII though is not a bad fighter if you understand the way the wider blade is going to affect your strikes and if you train with it so the balance doesn't throw off your timing. That way it provides you with the extra ability for camp usage without being too far out of it's element.

The issue with a tang is not really as important in an HI Khuk. The true issue with a non-partial tang is usually the tang working it's way out of the handle. Not with a tang embedded in the handle breaking. Since HI Khuks tangs go clear through the handle and then are peened over on the other side it is very doubtful that a visible tang all the way around the handle adds any significant durability to the weapon. As for the prying remember the Chiruwa Ang Khola is the only one warrantied for that any other ones will probably suffer some damage.
 
Shavru said:
As someone who has some minimal experience with Khuks as weapons though I know there are others here who probably have more experience. I would say that it depends entirely on your style and your envisioned usage. I personally prefer the longer thinner blades for fighting face to face so my preference is more towards a Siru or a Kobra or even a Malla are my first choice for fighting. A WWII though is not a bad fighter if you understand the way the wider blade is going to affect your strikes and if you train with it so the balance doesn't throw off your timing. That way it provides you with the extra ability for camp usage without being too far out of it's element.

The issue with a tang is not really as important in an HI Khuk. The true issue with a non-partial tang is usually the tang working it's way out of the handle. Not with a tang embedded in the handle breaking. Since HI Khuks tangs go clear through the handle and then are peened over on the other side it is very doubtful that a visible tang all the way around the handle adds any significant durability to the weapon. As for the prying remember the Chiruwa Ang Khola is the only one warrantied for that any other ones will probably suffer some damage.
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Thank you for your advice.

I am aware about the Chiruwa Ang Khola being the only one warrantied for being a pry bar. I don't intend to use mine as one though it would be nice if it were an option.

As for the full tang, I suppose I like it because the handles are easier to replace on full tang blades from what I've seen and I really like the look of the tang going all the way down splitting the handle in half.

As for the fighting ability of the WW2 model. It seems very practical for me though I do recognize what you say about the thinner ones. I also have a Cold Steel Recon Tanto San Mai III strapped to the front of my chest rig for fighting. I just like having the option of the Khukuri too.

 
An important point re fighting blades is the "dueling" vs fighting. The lighter blades are great combative blades-but a ww2 or ASTK, or an m43 against irregularly armed, usually untrained (or minimally trained) opponents has a lot to recommend it-and if you're strong enough to keep it nimble they're devastating even in a "dueling" scenario. One thing to know is getting khuks out quick can be kinda tricky.
Find something about the same weight as the khuk you're thinking of (hammers work) and see if you can maneuver it.
A khuk and a small (5") antipersonnel scraper would render the cold steel redundant.
 

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I've owned and still own tons of kukris, from vintage models to brand new modern versions. I've used almost every one at one time or another. With that my favorite kukri to carry and use is my 16.5" 23oz WWII.

Don't worry about the tang, at first I was obsessed with chiruwa tang but have come to prefer the standard full tang.
 
J W Bensinger said:
An important point re fighting blades is the "dueling" vs fighting. The lighter blades are great combative blades-but a ww2 or ASTK, or an m43 against irregularly armed, usually untrained (or minimally trained) opponents has a lot to recommend it-and if you're strong enough to keep it nimble they're devastating even in a "dueling" scenario. One thing to know is getting khuks out quick can be kinda tricky.
Find something about the same weight as the khuk you're thinking of (hammers work) and see if you can maneuver it.
A khuk and a small (5") antipersonnel scraper would render the cold steel redundant.
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I was thinking of using the Tanto with the Khukuri.

Dirtbiker said:
I've owned and still own tons of kukris, from vintage models to brand new modern versions. I've used almost every one at one time or another. With that my favorite kukri to carry and use is my 16.5" 23oz WWII.

Don't worry about the tang, at first I was obsessed with chiruwa tang but have come to prefer the standard full tang.
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Yeah the WWII Model definitely has caught my eye. I'm thinking I might just get a regular WW2 Model and then special order one with a full tang later after I've used it for a while.

How does everyone else like their WW2 Models? Anyone have a spare in good condition to sell until HI is available to make specialty Khukuris?

Thanks guys.
 
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This is what I carried. Maybe 5" blade, reverse grip inside main edge. Pure antipersonnel scraper/grappling accessory but I never knew it was there. Ziptied it into my paraclete under the cummerbund, let a little bit of lanyard stick out for accessing.
Nobody else even knew it was a blade.
 
TheManiot said:
... Yeah the WWII Model definitely has caught my eye. I'm thinking I might just get a regular WW2 Model and then special order one with a full tang later after I've used it for a while....
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The WWII model occasionally comes with chiruwa type handle, and they look great. Here's one that's a little bigger than most, 18.5" OAL, 33oz:

View attachment 426444

[Note: Any comparisons of length and weight for the various HI models have to be with the caveat that these blades are hand made with traditional tools and methods, so there is a lot of variation even within a particular model. Some kamis are known for making extra massive knives, but sometimes the same kami will produce a much lighter version. I suppose it can vary according to what the kami has for breakfast, or what piece of steel he starts with.]

The non-chiruwa WWII also looks great and arguably is a little more comfortable: less vibration when chopping, no metal in contact with your hand in cold weather, and less potential for protruding edges. As Shavru pointed out, the tang can't come out, since it goes all the way through the handle and is peened over at the end. Mostly it's a matter of which look appeals to you, and which type is available when you want the knife.

As for repairing a broken handle, that's been debated on this forum. Of course it depends on the nature of the break. Is the handle merely cracked, or is it destroyed? If you're in the field it's probably easier to make a quick, perhaps temporary repair on a chiruwa type handle, since you can wrap the wide tang in paracord. If you have access to some kind of shop, the non-chiruwa handle might be easier to replace, since you just have to drill a hole for the tang, fill it with epoxy and peen over the end. Either way, there's a lot of shaping involved to get the wood comfortable and looking good.

WWII versus M43 is a close call. The WWII tend to run a little lighter weight, which is a plus. They usually have a thick spine, thus plenty of strength. I'd say on the weapon-chopper spectrum, the WWII is a little closer to the weapon end, just because it's a little lighter. The M43 handle is closer to what most westerners are used to, as it doesn't have the ring around the middle, and it usually comes in chiruwa style.

Let us know what you end up with, preferably with pictures.
 
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Very good argument Davidf99. Thank you for taking the time to help me understand. I'm going to get the WWII model. Anyone have one in good condition that they want to sell?
 
We dont sell on this subforum but if you want to post a "wanted" thread you can go to the Exchange at: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/672-The-Knife-Exchange. Its actually forbidden to sell or trade here. Good luck. That WWII Davidf99 posted is awesome btw! I didnt realize what i was missing from my collection till I saw that one! Very very nice!!! Is that a Dill? Dont recognize the flower mark?

TheManiot said:
Very good argument Davidf99. Thank you for taking the time to help me understand. I'm going to get the WWII model. Anyone have one in good condition that they want to sell?
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ndoghouse said:
.... That WWII Davidf99 posted is awesome btw! I didnt realize what i was missing from my collection till I saw that one! Very very nice!!! Is that a Dill? Dont recognize the flower mark?
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Yes, the kami for the chiruwa horn-handled WWII is Dil.

Here's a non-chiruwa WWII by Vim kami. A little smaller, at 17" OAL and 24.5 oz, and just as beautiful in my opinion.

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