Decorative File Work on Tang Advice

Joined
Jun 1, 2019
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Hello BF, I needed a break from my normal knife stuff today so decided I would try my hand at some file work. Had some scrap steel laying around. I dont have a good file set nor did I have Epoxy dye so I used leather dye and my crappy files.

The result is nowhere near perfect, but I realized I could probably start practicing at this and get better. So couple questions.

1) can anyone recommend a good set of files to do this kind of work? If there isn't a "set" but rather individual files I would need, that's fine.

2) I know I need Epoxy dyes, but are there better brands than others?

3) Any other tips, tricks, or things you wish would have known when you were first starting out with this kind of work. Anything and everything is appreciated.
IMG_6318.jpg IMG_6316.jpg
 
The Swiss or German needle files are very good, Rio Grande carries several different brands. I bought Frederick Dick files, they do a good job and last a long time. Stay the hell away from the cheap HF needle files, they will break your heart.
 
The Swiss or German needle files are very good, Rio Grande carries several different brands. I bought Frederick Dick files, they do a good job and last a long time. Stay the hell away from the cheap HF needle files, they will break your heart.

Lee Valley sells good ones too.
 
Filework looks best when it is polished, in my opinion. Filling it up with epoxy is the easy way out. What if you do filework on a blade?
Most epoxy dyes are about the same.
File work is much easier with a rotary tool.
 
Your vine seems to grow from the tip towards the handle.
I would have done it the other way around, having the last thorn flow in to the tip
 
Check out Dwayne Dushane’s filework examples (he has a dvd out also).
I imagine there are others as good, his is the only one I’ve seen personally.
 
View attachment 1442403 View attachment 1442402 https://www.instructables.com/Vine-filework-for-knives/
I got thins link from Willie71 Willie71
Helped me out a lot. I found it easier than it looks. I used a small chainsaw file and triangular file. This was my first try.
Yours looks better than the one in the linked tutorial!
I would find several examples that look really good and then look closely at exactly what the pattern is, what shapes are needed and the corresponding tools, then sketch it out and go from there.
 
Remember, if the filework will be under the scales, the only part that will be seen is the exposed spine. Cut as deep and ugly on the sides of the tang as needed to get the desired spine look, because it will be filed with resin. Actually, rough filing on the sides of the tang makes for better resin adhesion.
 
The pics I posted are pre heat treat, I just got it back yesterday so now I have to clean up the decarb and touch up the pattern. Definitely a learning curve to it, but still not as hard as it looks.
 
My Stihl chainsaw dealer sells some nice ones at a good price.

The Stihl files are made by pferd. Or at least they were 6 or 7 years ago when I looked them up. Those are my favorite files.
 
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The Stihl files aren’t made by pferd. Or at least they were 6 or 7 years ago when I looked them up. Those are my favorite files.
I know both Stihl and Husqvarna have rebranded items. Their axes are about half the price of the original brand and are a huge bargain. It would make sense that the files are really good for the price.
 
I know both Stihl and Husqvarna have rebranded items. Their axes are about half the price of the original brand and are a huge bargain. It would make sense that the files are really good for the price.

corrected my post. They are made by pferd. My favourite files in my shop.
 
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