Define a hard use knife....

TheCarbideRat

BANNED
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
1,510
What in your opinion are the qualifications / disqualifications re fixed and folding hard use knives.


sorry about the previously mis-fired thread.
 
comfortable handle for using all day long, enough size to be used with glove.
robust and easy to sharpen blade and edge.
weather proofed handle/sheath materials.

Above conditions may not be enough for hard use blade
but any failure of those will mean disqualify imo.

I have no idea for hard use folders.
 
"define a hard use knife"....
- a knife which keeps it's edge; like it cut's forever.
- a knife with lateral strength and flexible enough so as not to snap in two; and takes punishment like it can never break.
thus it probably boils down to the technical aspects rooted to steel type and of its built/construction.

in the old days a "camp knife" would be considered a hard use knife, being as much a tool it was as in a hatchet or axe.
those were long blades 8" and over.
it was expected to see some hard use, but one always took care of it as it does you.
it's in vogue to consider some tactical fixed blades "hard use".
but in what way?
and considerable physical punishment, short of abuse?
as in to break stone? hack down a tree? pry open a car hood?
and in so doing, the kind of eventual use a knife owner has in store for his "hard use knife" may or may not live up to his perceived expectations.

on the otherhand, many wouldn't think twice or have no trouble and care about hard using a knife if it wasn't their property, or if it's already old and worn, or that it's an economically priced model which is easily replaced, or it's considered as a genuine worktool; and just sometimes that rare occassion to sacrifice a knife suddenly becomes a worthwhile consideration, to save a human life...
a true hard use knife is going to be associated with it's stellar performance when called upon to carry out task which far outweigh their general use and specifications.
we could always be call upon to hard use a knife, simply because it was the only one there.
 
A knife that you can literally beat the crap out of, pry with, batton though wood, chop down trees and abuse the hell out of and it still holds up. :D :thumbup:

Beat on it
Use it as a pry bar
Split logs
Split concrete
Everything and anything else you can think of.
 
Last edited:
Brian Goode makes a knife as strong as you will ever need. This is off Brian's website.
chair_hole.jpg
 
As a Folder lover, I always take into consideration that it "might" be used for some sort of lifesaving/traumatic/SD sort of event, and thus I would assume (and hope :o) that my knives would hold up to the task when and if that time ever came.

One folder that has really been put to the test is one of my first "expensive" folders before I knew what I know today. It is an Emerson Commander. Yes it is a liner lock, but I've never had it fail on me and I've never put stress on it which would cause it to close either. I have chopped and batoned with it, even removed the wave for more thumb room (now I regret that :(). This is one folder which has seen it all from a camping and fishing perspective. I've reprofiled the edge once or twice to get the dings out of the edge and even removed the finish that was on it.

This is my go-to knife when I need to use it for hard use without feeling guilty.

2009-08-25085238.jpg

2009-08-25085250.jpg


I suppose if you can chop, baton, and still hold an edge afterwards it's a damn good knife :D
 
Building a strong as possible knife withut sacrificing its ability to cut well imo. A lot of hard use knives today don't keep great cutting ability which is kinda dumb:P
 
3/16"+ thick 5160 steel, 1095, SR101, CPM3V, A2, INFI, S7 etc... fixed blade.
 
I use the term generally, to refer to knives where durability and resistance to mechanical failure are specific design parameters. When you start making a knife stouter, it gets better at doing some things, and less good at doing others. So there is not necessarily anything inherently better about the “hard use knife”.

The main issue is one of calibrating design parameters with use parameters. An FBM is going to chop bricks better than on Opinel, but the Opinel cuts apples better.

Where a lot of folks seem to be getting confused here lately (okay, it’s been going on for a good while) is with the idea that chopping bricks (etc.) is not a legitimate use for a knife. There is nothing wrong with the idea of using a knife for a broad range of tasks.
 
One that can pry, chop, baton, and even stab into canned food or other light metal and remain perfectly usable. Generally this means a fixed blade with full tang construction, though it does not necessarily have to be very expensive.
 
The Cold Steel Bushman, aside from being the only product of theirs that I think has any actual merit, and aside from its tiny price (got mine for 20 bucks in maybe 2002), is the epitome of a hard use knife IMO.
 
OK, can I have an example, like what is the main feature of your CS Bushman which puts it into the hard use category and how long do you expect to have the knife for, using it as you generally intend to use it. In other words will it last.

Also would anyone like to chime in on D2 and Crucible steels.
 
Last edited:
I will still pick 1095 over D2 and crucible steels in my rough use knives. I have an RC5 in hand now and I don't think I could ever ask for more out of a rough use knife. I will never ever carry or rely on a folder for rough use.
 
There are several words that cover that definition.

Two of my favorite definitions of hard use are:

1)Busse

2)Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works

STR
 
I define a hard use knife as one that I can do just about anything conceivable with, without fear of it failing- or suffering serious damage. Included is an expectation of a at least a some degree of chopping ability.
 
There are several words that cover that definition.

Two of my favorite definitions of hard use are:

1)Busse

2)Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works

STR


I think that pretty much covers it. :D :thumbup:
 
Back
Top