Degree wedges

Google for "CKTG Angle Guides"

 

Fred Rowe, the poster that mentions them also sells them. The price is reasonable. I bought I set for myself from him.

 

Ditto

 

Fred is here on the forums. Mostly in the Maker's sections. Shoot him a PM. He is a great guy who I know will take care of you.

 

Hi,
You probably already own some clothespins and binderclips

 

Hi,
Are his wedges the same as shown in the bubble jig pictures ? Blunt tips or pointy tips?
What is his price?

 

I have a set from Fred. Just shoot him a PM as was mentioned.

 

Hi,

Yup, it will work with anything,
but its convex version, to get exact angle matching use the version pictured below

Either use the sharpie/marker angle finding trick,

Or you can do some measuring distances as shown in picture below
and punch into
calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html
its just a right angle triangle, with rise being the height difference, and run being the distance from end of table

Either shim the blade so it lays horizontal, and add that bit of height to the rise
Or if the blade is laying angled, add the primary grind angle to the jig angle

If the distance from edge of table, if the run, is too far , so you only have 1inch of stroke length ...
well just shorten the rise, the height between end of table knife
its and either raise the end of table (put a piece of wood on corner),
lower the sliding block of wood (thinner stock)

A tip from somebody who's used it

Similarly, if the piece of wood that is the blade rest is moving, use a nail/screw to stop it


The nail/backstop/height adjustment are not pictured in this image

Once you figure out the positions (rise/run) write it down

PaulSellersKnifeSharpeningSystem.png

 

Hi,

Do you mean lift the guide?

I wouldn't change its position,
the clip/guide is there to let you know when your angle is too low,
as long as you're close to the angle, blade will get sharp
but the easiest way to figure out what works is to try it with your practice knife,
watch your hands, watch the blade/stone , gotta do it a few times to figure it out


See, if the width of the blade changes as you move towards the tip,
then adding a second binder clip, clipped exactly like the first,
might change the angle towards the tip,
so you might not be able to position it exactly...
but its not that important
lots of blades come from the factory with different tip angle due to hand sharpening,
and as long as you're close enough to the angle it will work,
and you'll learn to feel the edge balance on the stone at the correct angle


You're better off just clipping in one spot, somewhere in the middle of the blade,
so you can start sharpening the base at the guided angle,
but you also have some guide on the stone when you start pivoting for the tip
and then just rotate/pivot the blade as you reach the curved belly portion

To maintain angle throughout the tip all you have to do is pivot the blade throughout the curved parts like this gif.
The little green square indicates 90 degrees to the stone , and always finish the stroke on the stone (tip remains on stone)
The key is to make sure the edge is contacting stone (look).
If the stone is vertical,like in a sharpmaker, then merely pivoting 90 to the stone is comfortable.
If stone is horizontal , you might throw in a little lifting of the handle for comfort.


whether you're doing scrubbing passes or one direction only passes,
just follow the curve, 90 to the stone, and when you do,
look to see that the edge is contacting the stone,
going away from yourself, look for daylight to diappear, shadow means contact

yes this means tilting the handle a little or pressing the edge with your other hand
but looking with your eyes is what you should focus on
Here is an example of a very recent video
[video=youtube;oRmcQ-MqbBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRmcQ-MqbBE[/video]
If that doesn't feel right, you can always go vertical,
by leaning your sharpening stone against a wall or book to make a bench stone sharmaker and just slice down the stone and pivot for tip, no handle lifting, finishing with tip on the stone (tip doesnt leave stone)

 

Hi,

So are they pointy or blunt tipped like in the bubblejig picture?
What was the cost/shipping when you got them?

 

double up on the wood,
instead of using actual table and a block of wood,
use two blocks of wood, one longer block as the base (table)
and one shorter to slide on top closer to edge for higher angle,
further away from edge for lower angle

or, tie a splint around your stone ,
thats two sticks, left and a right, tied together on top and bottom ,
pinching the stone in between,
a bonafide stone holder,
to extend the hypotenuse/length,
so the size of the stone does not limit your angle range ,
so all you do to change angle is adjust run,
and you dont have to adjust rise/height

can also just tie the stone to a board , and then adjust height for thickness ...
or use your smart phone as an angle cube (there are free apps)


also try not to rub too hard against the table, lean more on the knife than the table, the rubbing on the table is just to keep your angle

can also pad the contact point,
tape some paper/cardboard/folder on the edge or your table so there is no direct contact,
cutting board... whatever you need to keep your table scratch free
then drape some paper or ... over the edge of the real table,

wood against wood, or wood against paper is better than abrasive against wood


if you use board/on/board/on/board, you can use the 1/60 rule to estimate angle,
so if you let 1 thickness of the board be your rise,
then a run of 10 thicknesses of the board would give you a 10 degree angle
20 thicknesses would give you 20 degree
update: aww I got the rule wrong again, anyway,
1 thickness rise 1 thickness run is 45 degrees
1 thickness rise 2 thickness run is 25.5 degrees
1 thickness rise 3 thickness run is 18.4 degrees
1 thickness rise 4 thickness run is 14 degrees
...


also maybe you add guard rails (or just a tie/rope) at the end of base/table to keep wood from slipping off
sharpening can easily turn into a craft project

 

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I tried the jigs above a few times. The only downfall I found was stroke length. At really shallow angles, you can only use a small portion of the stone. There is also the issue of rubbing an abrasive stone against a table top. It's doable, but a bit fussy. I went back to my old angle guides. However, keep in mind I've been using them for nearly 20 years. I have a bit more practice with them. Old dogs and new tricks or something like that.