delica SE VG10 and the sea

Originally posted by wabi
Talonite.

wabi
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well said, wabi. now could someone pls donate some $ to me so that I can afford a talonite blade??:p
 
Try a Boye Dendrtic Cobalt blade. Dendritic cobalt is similar in composition to Talonite, but it is cast not stock removed. The casting gives it a microcrystaline structure that helps in cutting and retaining cutting power when the edge begins to dull. It will not rust.

It has gotten great reviews by knife lovers (Tactical Knives) and some sailing magazines. The website is at www.boyeknives.com . They offer a sheepsfoot, serrated or a plain edge spear point. I have the dendritic 440C version of the spear point blade. It's a well design serious cutter with an excellent fine edge. The handle ergonomics are great for all size hands. The blade opens with a hole or can be easily flicked. Only disadvantage is its a cutter not a pry bar. Current sale price is $99 vs. $139 list.
 
lambertiana,yes here in Sweden it´s usually cold water and cold in the air as well ,and it is deffenitely not a tropic environment. I didn´t think about it before,but when you say it, it sounds logic. The tropic environment and the warm water is for sure factors that speeds up the rust procedure.

I belive that AUS6A is a good choice regarding rust resistance. It is used in the SOG Seal knife 2000,and that knife is made for the US Navy Seals who are all divers. They spend most time in marine environments. That alone should be a indicator of AUS6A´s rust resistance. I personally don´t have any knife in AUS6A(what i can think of),so i can´t say how good it is.

Manowar
 
Originally posted by Morgoth412
Well, if you are going out in salt water, the 440 series steels actually become good steels. Try out a BM Mini Griptillian. It's got 440C steel that should hold up better in salt water conditions. On dry land it's edge holding won't even come close to VG-10 though.
-Kevin
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I would NEVER bring (either of) my Benchmade Mini-Griptilians to the sea. I also do some sea-kayaking (often surfing waves with it) and yes, I spend much time in the water as well as on it. I fear for the innards, and the axis lock springs, of a Mini-Griptilian should it become immersed in salt water. Who wants to have to *disassemble* a knife, clean every part, and then put it back together *each time you go out on the water*?? Not me!

I have the H100S or whatever that model is called. Mine has bright yellow scales and a partially serrated edge. I love it -- and I have had it on my PFD for a couple of flat-water paddles. I have not brought it to surf waves because there simply haven't been any lately. I have a small concern about the sheath's ability to retain the knife if a nasty violent wave takes me into the water: things have a way of getting very ugly then, and knives have a way of getting detached. The sheath clip itself seems fast to the square sewn-on attachment on my vest. My concern is that it does not take an abundance of pull to remove the knife from the sheath, even *with* that little tab-thingie clicked over to supposedly "block" the removal of the knife. In fact, I can't really say that removing the knife feels *any* harder with that tab in place. I thought it was supposed to be a second lock on accidental unsheathing, but it seems ineffective. Anyone else with a BM dive/river knife feel the same way about it?

If you want a good knife to get out on the water with, go with something *cheap* but with a good enough reputation. I usually have my CRKT Neck Peck, or my Cold Steel "The Spike," on my neck. If you want something bigger than the Neck Peck, and still cheap, get a CRKT Still Kiss. You won't cry if it gets lost, but you can get it with a combo edge, and it's nice and light so you won't notice its weight.

Have fun and be safe.

---Jeffrey
 
Wait, wait, wait, wait. Just because 440a or AUS6A has the least amount of carbon, doesn't mean that it will rust the least. A lot of the "rust factor" also depends on the grain structure. I have a SOG Magnadot that will rust much, much quicker than my BM TSEK. Generally you can say the more carbon, the higher the chance of staining, but remember, this is not always the case. Chek out some metallurgy manuals or try some testing yourself, and you will see.
 
Originally posted by peacefuljeffrey
I have the H100S or whatever that model is called. Mine has bright yellow scales and a partially serrated edge.

My concern is that it does not take an abundance of pull to remove the knife from the sheath, even *with* that little tab-thingie clicked over to supposedly "block" the removal of the knife. In fact, I can't really say that removing the knife feels *any* harder with that tab in place. I thought it was supposed to be a second lock on accidental unsheathing, but it seems ineffective.---Jeffrey
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Jeffrey, I tried my friend's HS100 last week - and I agree fully with you. The lock is simply ineffective. I could just pull out the knife easily, even with the thumb lock on. The thumb lock also loosens rather quickly over time and I'm doubt that the thumb lock is durable.

On the plus side, the H1 steel sharpens up pretty easily (got it shaving sharp in about 40 strokes per side on the sharpmaker), the blade and sheath are a good size and it has some clip for attachment to the PFD.

I wouldn't bring an axis or arc-lock folder to sea. The insides will rust like nobody's business.

I've seen the boye dendritic knives, but have never really fancied their shape n colour. They must be good though.
 
Originally posted by spyken
Jeffrey, I tried my friend's HS100 last week - and I agree fully with you. The lock is simply ineffective. I could just pull out the knife easily, even with the thumb lock on. The thumb lock also loosens rather quickly over time and I'm doubt that the thumb lock is durable.

On the plus side, the H1 steel sharpens up pretty easily (got it shaving sharp in about 40 strokes per side on the sharpmaker), the blade and sheath are a good size and it has some clip for attachment to the PFD.

I wouldn't bring an axis or arc-lock folder to sea. The insides will rust like nobody's business.

I've seen the boye dendritic knives, but have never really fancied their shape n colour. They must be good though.
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The Axis locks omega springs are tempered (from BM adleast), they won't rust unless you pretty much dumped them in salt water (some will argue, but chances are your Axis lock was defective when you got it).
 
j-man, the knives will be fully immersed in saltwater when I'm out at sea. no question about it. I plan to swim, capsize, roll, snorkel with the knives. For me, a sea-faring knife is a sea-swimming knife :D :p

btw, who's that in your avatar? she's so distractingly yummy....:p :D
 
I believe the Boye folder has taken care of that. The blade of course won't rust, and I beleive it has a titanium clip. I know the materials for other parts of the lockback have been chosen with the ocean as the test environment. Since the materials have matured over the years, I'd buy the newest one from Boye if you were interested.
 
yup, i agree with wabi. talonite (cobalt) is the way to go for a saltwater environment. try the david boye companion or the camillus EDC cuda talonite.
 
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