I picked up some Delrin from the local composite distributer this weekend. It was recommended by the distributer as a replacement for linen micarta. Has anyone worked with this material? It weighs less than micarta and best of all doesn't require a respirator when shaping. Just to be sure the stuff was strong I took a sledge hammer to the material on a concrete floor. Very impressive. The only drawback is it doesn't have the semi-abrasive grip that I like with the micarta's. Any ideas on how to get a non-slip handle without filing grooves?
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Delrin Handle Material
- Thread starter DonL
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 12, 1998
- Messages
- 1,647
I'm in the plastics field, and come across Delrin myself from time to time. Delrin is a homopolymer (denotes the chemical structure) POM, or polyoxymethylene material, commonly falling under the material classification of acetals. It's a fairly chemically resistant material, "usually" affected by strong acids (pH less than 4.0). Many would recommend wearing a dust mask anytime you're working with sanding or grinding materials, but be especially careful not to overheat an acetal material. Part of the chemical makup of acetals is formaldehyde, and if overheated in the 410-420 deg F range for a sufficient amount of time, this may be released. OSHA and other alphabet soup agencies have guidelines for the safe use of formaldehyde, but suffice it to say there are long term nasties associated with this stuff. Better to be safe than sorry, keep it cool, don't allow it to reach such high temps that it easily melts and discolors. Acetals have a pretty low coefficient of friction, so it's used alot in applications where the "slickness" comes in handy. It can be checkered or textured, but may always retain a certain "slippery" sort of feel. Hope this long winded response helps some.
[This message has been edited by DonL (edited 15 March 1999).]
[This message has been edited by DonL (edited 15 March 1999).]
You can texture delrin fairly easy. One way is to take course emery cloth place on delrin and hit with hammer. Another way is to use a chunk of screen (I have not done this to delrin but other material types) and either press or heat and press into material. I use stainless steel screen (keeps its shape well) cut out a shape, maybe punch out a dime size and tack or silver solder onto that size rod. I suppose you could take a Dremel and draw and cut pattern if you wanted something different.
As I recall (I worked with it about a year ago, tried many different ways to get even impression)I ended up using a arbor press. I started on wood. Well let me tell what happened..I was talking to my grandpa (he's big into wood carving) and he was showing me a stippling tool. Now, if you don't know what that is...it's basically a flat punch that has been machined at a 45 degree angle (small line cuts) then turned on same 45 degree 90 degrees ,so you end up with a lot of little points. They come in different sizes and patterns. Oh, you could use these if you found one you liked.
Anyway, I had made a set of very custom pistol grips and on the thumb shelf I tipped it down with a light curve. It was slick and what I wanted was about a 3/8" square spot that was checkered. Problem was it was curved and I didn't want to free hand it. So, I took a 1/2" steel round , ground it to the same shape then cut a 3/8" square of stainless steel screen, put between and pressed it. Yes, I did take a block of wood and practice with first...a lot, to be sure I had the pressure right. Don't try to press it twice, you only get one shot.
So, I tried it on plastics and found it worked best when it was warmed up. If you play with it and get the right temp it works great. If I did it more I would use a temp controlled soldering iron (big one) and make my own head to go in place of tip (kinda like the hot letter stamps used on wood). I worked with acrylic which is more brittle then delrin, so it needed the heat (I'd try delrin cold first).
If the plastic sticks to the screen
it's too hot. Take a wire brush on a dremel and go over screen.
Just remember even pressure. I only did round dime size. Best ol luck
Anyway, I had made a set of very custom pistol grips and on the thumb shelf I tipped it down with a light curve. It was slick and what I wanted was about a 3/8" square spot that was checkered. Problem was it was curved and I didn't want to free hand it. So, I took a 1/2" steel round , ground it to the same shape then cut a 3/8" square of stainless steel screen, put between and pressed it. Yes, I did take a block of wood and practice with first...a lot, to be sure I had the pressure right. Don't try to press it twice, you only get one shot.
So, I tried it on plastics and found it worked best when it was warmed up. If you play with it and get the right temp it works great. If I did it more I would use a temp controlled soldering iron (big one) and make my own head to go in place of tip (kinda like the hot letter stamps used on wood). I worked with acrylic which is more brittle then delrin, so it needed the heat (I'd try delrin cold first).
If the plastic sticks to the screen
Just remember even pressure. I only did round dime size. Best ol luck